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Member Since: Aug 14, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 1,547
Total Points: 383
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ac been climbing?










Contributions


All 318 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 218 | Posts | Stars 56 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: ac When: Jul 25, 2005

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Comments: I'm looking for sun/shade beta on the Primo Wall and Crystal Tower. The description above says north facing, but these formations pretty clearly look SE facing in the guidebook. Also there are many comments on this page discussing climbing there in March, where a shady N-facing crag would be less than ideal. So, which is it? When are these crags in the shade and what direction do they face? Thanx...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Y2K (5.12c)
By: ac When: Jul 25, 2005

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Comments: Can't say I was as impressed by this climb as other posters. I give it one star since I did not enjoy the climb enough to want to put in work for a redpoint.It was kind of a thrutchy one-move wonder (and a very tough move at that). Even with backcleaning 2 QDs, rope drag got pretty bad near the top... I would recommend using only long draws on the entire roof section leading up to the crux move (as well as the last bolt on the slab). Y2K is certainly more difficult than 10-digit-dialing, but ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Free Fall (5.12a)
By: ac When: Jul 22, 2005

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Comments: Great story Richard. I love reading this kind of stuff. I'm sure you have more interesting FA stories (hopefully not too many like this one!) you could share on this website.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : No Doze (5.12c)
By: ac When: Jul 21, 2005

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Comments: Hard-12a or soft-12b. To whoever mentioned it, this is nowhere near as hard as Lucid Dreaming. 2-3 star route if this were the BRC, so some will like it, but pretty blatant chipping on this one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Beaver Fever (5.11)
By: ac When: Jul 21, 2005

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Comments: Softest graded climb I've done in BoCan. The "12c" part isn't even as hard as the upper part, which is the 11d crux of Leave it to Beaver. Decent route, nonetheless.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Green Panther (5.13a)
By: ac When: Jul 19, 2005

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Comments: I would say this is bouldery route is harder than 12c. I didn't redpoint the route, so I can't be certain of the grade yet, but my impression from 2 tries is that its harder than Flying Beast, another bouldery BoCan route.

Speaking of glued holds, the glued horn just over the lip of the overhang is not long for this world. When that goes, this route will almost certainly be at least 13a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Power Bulge (5.12c)
By: ac When: Jul 18, 2005

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Comments: I've heard that there are severe issues with many Dinosaur Mtn sport routes. Some unintentional illegality and thus possible access issues here. There were some hints of this on cb.com, but many of those comments have been deleted, and the full extent of the issue was never fully disclosed. I would have thought this would have been cleared up by now... perhaps now is the time, folks?


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Primer (5.11a)
By: ac When: Jul 18, 2005

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Comments: Great Rifle climbing for the grade.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: ac When: Jul 18, 2005

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Comments: Excellent route. There are runouts, but both hands and feet are very secure - no slab moves! Most of the pins actually looked solid given the way they were placed. The steepness makes the 5.6 climbing exciting. East descent with the bolted chain is totally obvious (because of the cairn) and highly recommended.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: ac When: Jul 14, 2005

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Comments: Ok, this is getting weird. This climb is unbelievably beautiful. The last pitch alone would make it an absolute classic (ropelength of splitter hands & fingers hundreds of feet off the deck), but the clean, gorgeous pitches below make it a real gem. The perfect, clean 10a splitter? The sexy 5.8 fist crack? The wild 10 corner? The flawlessly enervating runout slab on pitch 1? Nothing flaky or flaring about those pitches. There are some occasional lichen crumbs, but this here's an alpine route.

T... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Riddler (5.11c)
By: ac When: Jul 14, 2005

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Comments: 1 star? Come on! At some BoCan cliffs, this would be 3 stars and the best climb on the crag.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Green Zone (5.11a)
By: ac When: Jul 14, 2005

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Comments: Excellent route. Sustained and pumpy, but with salvation holds when you need them. Don't let the crux intimidate you - the jug is up there waiting for you if you don't give up on the thin part. Take heed of Thor's recommendation to put longer runners on the initial bolts under the first roof. That rope drag isn't fun on the crux. I have to express my thanks to Thor and others for putting in these new routes. They are a great addition to this wall. One thing I'd recommend though is spray p... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock
By: ac When: Jul 12, 2005

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Comments: Can someone identify the several routes not in the guidebook to the left of Knappweed Herbacide (the 5.10 warm-up)? I see that "Chickenshit" and "Surrounded" are in the database, but I see at least 4 lines to the left of Knappweed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d)
By: ac When: Jul 12, 2005

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Comments: A very bouldery route, basically a 10-move V5 boulder problem with a couple hard clips, but this is nowhere close to 13a. Maybe on the Boulder Canyon scale you could argue 13a, but at Rifle this would clock in at closer to 12c, even without the knee-bars or hip-scums, which I did not find. Similar in difficulty to Nevermore, maybe a titch harder or easier depending on your strengths.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Wanker (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Jul 11, 2005

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Comments: Nowhere close to 3 stars.I would give 2 stars for the variation which climbs the left line, through the first roof, to the 2nd set of anchors (The Bureau???). The stretch up to the 3rd set of anchors, however, is among the more jingus sections of rock I've climbed in Boulder Canyon. A key block in the roof is attached to the cliff by a vat of glue, and is secured to the cliff, in case it comes off, with a 4-foot chain attached to the last bolt. A few other key loose holds here as well. Thi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: ac When: Jul 2, 2005

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Comments: As another avid Eldo Climber -- though I haven't kept track of the number of routes; let's call it 'plenty' -- I'd like to weigh in here.

Bob D, and others, state: "There are more important things than an arrangement of bolts on a face" or something similar.

I agree, and there are less important things as well. Its the balance between pure convenience and ethics that we're trying to find. This is not a simple argument; climbing isn't simple, and it does it and this discuss... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: ac When: Jun 27, 2005

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Comments: Road is now open up until about a mile and a half from the rock slide so that kayakers, climbers and hikers can enjoy the canyon.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : In Your Face (5.12d)
By: ac When: Jun 27, 2005

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Comments: I disagree that this is a "boulderer's route". This is all about power endurance, and climbing efficiently enough to have juice for the final move (crux). I think its only a V3ish crux, which most people who get on this route will quickly figure out, but it is very low percentage when pumped.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Body Tremors (5.8+ PG13)
By: ac When: Jun 25, 2005

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Comments: The people suggesting that this is a "reasonable" route for the 5.8 leader are full of boston baked beans.

George Bell's comments are right on the money.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.12a)
By: ac When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: One of the best 12a's in the Canyon... climbs kind of like limestone.3 stars when combined with That's Weak. Just wish the meat were longer. A 60m rope will just get you back to the ground with a little shenanigans... definitely keep a knot in the end though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: I got on the 3rd pitch of this the other day, and I would have to say that it is considerably more difficult than the supposed route crux on the 2nd pitch. However, there is a fairly sizeable scar between the 1st and 2nd bolts which may have once been a fairly crucial hold. The pitch was also unchalked, licheny, and somewhat flakey making me wonder how many ascents its seen. Watch out below if someone is on this pitch: I dislodged a credit card sized flake which nearly hit a party below. Com... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Birthday Suit (5.10a)
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it.

Cheers,


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Silver Glide (5.11)
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it.

Cheers,


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: ac When: Jun 21, 2005

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Comments: Thanks for the responses re: rapping from Surette. Lazily, I was thinking we could just bring 1 cord up any of the routes, then do the first 70' rap on RM, then rap single line 200' to the ground, attach another cord for the second, etc. thereby avoiding the need to bring a trail line?

Beautiful wall, very cool routes. Thanks again.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: ac When: Jun 20, 2005

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Comments: Which rap route is better down from Surette ledge: Gneiss Route or Rocketman? Any thoughts?

Thanks


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