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end of the day in the black canyon.


Member Since: Apr 15, 2008
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Aaron Martinuzzi


Point Rank: # 341
Total Points: 1,584
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
18 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Aaron Martinuzzi been climbing?










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All (1252) | Routes (51) | Areas (25) | Photos (120) | Comments (99) | Posts (327) | Stars (527) | Ratings (103)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Nov 30, 2011

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Comments: Sounds like I might've mis-described the end of pitch 9/the beginning of pitch 10. On my ascent last year, I made it up to the “scattered epic gear” to which Jim referred in his post. I swiped some, and then downclimbed to the “slanting ramp” that he mentions to set up a belay at the 1st protection bolt and a nearby, half-driven knife blade. I'm guessing that, at the beginning of that downward sliding ramp, there is better gear, because I couldn't find anything to supplement the fixed stuff.

So... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: It's been a little while since I was climbing in Eldo, but I do remember Prince of Darkness being a tougher onsight than Super Slab. PoD definitely has a tech-y element to it that wasn't quite as present on SS.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Tour de Poudre (5.12b/c)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: May 21, 2011

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Comments: I remember pitch one climbing a lot like Monstrosity over at the Palace. Blocky, good holds, but no great opportunities for rests, closer to solid 5.10 than 5.10a. The second pitch is definitely thin and sustained, but I'm not sure it warrants a rating as hard as 12c.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Photo
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Jun 29, 2010

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Comments: I'm fairly certain this is actually the Meditation Boulder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Crack of Desperation (5.10a)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: Definitely a spectacular route. Calling it 10a is a legit sandbag, because the crux isn't at all obvious or easy, but with some sussing it goes without any grunting. Not easy ten, but definitely not hard ten, either.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Fear of Sunlight (5.11d)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: Gotta disagree about the bolting job on this line - definite possibility for unpleasant falls at a few spots along the route, which is a shame, because it's better than the second pitch of Le Stat. also, i'm going to argue that the crux of this climb was more difficult than either P1 or P2 of Le Stat; it involves a tough undercling sequence with shit feet and not-much-better hands. also very beta-intensive.

If you're solid at the grade, however, hit this line up, because... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Le Stat (5.11d)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: It's undeniable that this routes features decent climbing on good rock, but the cruxes were very beta-dependent; some of the toughest hard 11s I've been on. I think that calling the second pitch 11c is misleading, however. While the crux is less steep than the P1 crux, the holds are smaller and the moves more balance-y. 11++ for both pitches.


Location: NH : The Captain
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Jun 14, 2010

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Comments: is there beta for The Captain in any guidebooks currently in print?


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Triple Tier Area : Middle Class Wall : Middle Class Cracker (5.10a/b)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: Followed Kevin on this route today, and I would say that I'd probably want to shoot myself if I led this climb without at least four or five extendo-draws. The upper leaning corner is super fun (a bit reminiscent of lieback pitch on Perversion...just a bit...), as is the crux off the deck, but the middle portion of the route is pretty ambiguous, bushy, and quite frankly forgettable. A worthwhile climb, and deserving of more than one star, but, I think, not quite two. A light rack will do j... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Triple Tier Area : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche...
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: This crag has some of the the best sport climbing wall in the Poudre Canyon; steep climbs, great movement over some of the cleanest rock I've climbed out here. I'm a huge fan of Crystal Wall, and the climbing here is easily as good as the tough stuff there, but much steeper.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: May 22, 2010

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Comments: If only this wall was dead vertical! Climbed several of these lines today and found clean rock, tons of features, great friction, and a few surprisingly splitter cracks. Atypically friendly, secure climbing as far as Lumpy Ridge routes go. Can be crowded on weekends, but hitting up a few lines at this crag is definitely a must for any Lumpy climber. Don't let the "R" on Beelzebub scare you away from that line, it's probably the best at the crag.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Cruise (5.10+)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: This climb is a lot of fun, and, as mentioned, is a reasonable way to pass parties on the Scenic Cruise. My partner and I headed out with that climb in mind, but ended up being the fourth party to start the route; heading up The Cruise put us in 2nd.

That said, given that we had racked for the Scenic, our biggest piece was a new #4 Camalot. I was sort of dreading the OW pitch, but it ended up protecting pretty reasonably; I placed two #2 and #3 Camalots in... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Heat Searcher (5.11+)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: for those who have done Blue Sky Mining and are looking for a non-wide 5.10 at Broken Tooth (two of the 5.10+'s listed here are repeats of Unknown 11- and Pussy Wuss Crack), the first pitch of Heat Searcher is a really great chimneying and stemming pitch. the chimney is undeniably a bit sandy and has a couple hollow flakes, but the 80 feet of twin crack climbing above is as good as it gets at the grade. get on it if you're looking for something a bit more moderate at this cliff, or a warm-up t... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Crossbow (5.10b)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: My partner and I, when we each led this route in March of 2010, found little to no loose rock and mostly enjoyable climbing; fun sidepulls and pinches all over the place. Lots of lichen, sometimes challenging route-finding, but not the choss-pile that's indicated in the new Poudre Canyon routes guidebook.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Royal Arch : East Face/Royal Arch (5.4)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Apr 1, 2010

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Comments: I'm not sure this route deserves the stars or difficulty ratings it gets; fun and well-featured, yes, classic, solid, no. There's a fair bit of lichen on the route, and plenty of skethy edges. As far as difficulty, it's 40 - 45 degrees at most and every hold is a jug if you're looking up. That said, this is a very worthwhile line on a fun, fairly exposed, formation.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Lunch Bucket Crack (5.8)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Mar 30, 2010

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Comments: Cleaned a loose handhold from the start of the route today, other than that things are looking pretty solid on these three lines - they've cleaned up quite nicely and offer really enjoyable, steep moderate climbing.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Keep the River Free (5.10a)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: For what it's worth, this climb would make a great first 5.10 lead, as the pro at the crux would be totally solid and easy to place. It's a few challenging, isolated moves amidst otherwise moderate and enjoyable climbing.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Big Beaver Tail : Gansta Man In A Cadillac (5.11b)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: This is a really fun line with a short but fairly sustained cruxy section through the final three bolts. Slightly overhanging, without any give-away jugs, some tech footwork keeps the grade in the low 11s. The rock is primarily pretty solid, but watch out for a couple crumbly footholds.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Sorrow (5.11)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Mar 24, 2010

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Comments: this route is GREAT. the varnish on the inside of the tapering splitter makes it a joy to jam, and the face moves to finish up are just stellar. throws every size jam at you along with a bit of spice climbing above some tiny pro.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Great Gig in the Sky (5.11-)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: a couple pieces of info; this route eats up every bit of a 70m rope, and is tons of fun. bring many of .4 camalots/yellow metolius/yellow aliens to use on the start and finish. .5 Camalots are too big for the finger crack finish, though there is a #2 Camalot placement about 25+ feet below the anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Lt. Uhuru (5.11-)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: much fun - the lower laybacking is just as nice, and little more sustained, than Black Uhuru.

a little more gear beta for those interested - lower laybacking section takes .75 Camalots (i used four), and the crux roof sews up with #1 Friend/.5 Camalots/orange metolius (i used one of each). other than that, bring singles from yellow metolius to #2 or #3 Camalot. as a side note, the anchors are still bogus tat - probably the same stuff Brian mentions in his description.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown 10+ (5.10+)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: blake is right on the money with his comment; the description and main photo are inaccurate. in terms of length, my 70 was well short of the ground and we used up at least 75 feet of a second rope getting me down. 150+ feet; likely 50m.

rather than head left to the corner as blake did, i cleaned a few blocks out of the dirty section (immediately beneath a large block marked with an "X") and through a tough, but super fun, stemming/fingerlocking/face climbing section. ditt... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Topographical Oceans (5.10b)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Mar 1, 2010

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Comments: Just an FYI, the first two pitches link with a 70m rope - be sure to bring long runners to reduce drag and ensure that you make the anchors; it used every inch of rope between my partner and I to get him into my Reverso.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Northwest Slabs : Sky Crack (5.7)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Feb 23, 2010

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Comments: Thanks, Erik! It's an enjoyable place, and it melts out pretty quickly since the majority of the good climbing faces South and West.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs : Birdland (5.9 R)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Feb 19, 2010

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Comments: Indeed - only four bolts; the guidebook also states that these routes diverge after the sixth shared bolt, when they in fact separate after their second shared bolt.


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