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Staying Warm on South Face of Washington Column


Member Since: Nov 15, 2009
Last Visit: Jun 27, 2015
Contact aaron hope

Point Rank: # 2,124
Total Points: 292
Last Year: 84
Last 30 Days: 73
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has aaron hope been climbing?










Contributions


All 282 | Routes 4 | Areas 2 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 67 | Posts 73 | Stars 49 | Ratings 56
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Mogul Cliffs
By: aaron hope When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: I climbed here once in early spring and encountered three different rattlesnakes around the crag...two at the base and one on a small ledge while I was rappelling!


Location: International : Europe : Norway : Uksedal (Uskedalen)
By: aaron hope When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Rock and Ice had a good article on this place.
climbing.com/route/higher-call...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Photo
By: aaron hope When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Before climbing invaded my soul, I spent a good portion of my life paddling around that pier...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Catchy (5.10d)
By: aaron hope When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: WARNING: Ledge at top is dangerously loose as of 4/27/2015. Did this for the second time this year. Didn't notice anything either time I climbed it, but the second time, after rapping from Catchy Corner to the top of Catchy, I waited at the top of the Catchy anchors while my partner rapped....and the ledge you stand on MOVES. It was literally shaking back and forth about an inch as my partner rappelled, caused by the force of the weighted rope leveraging over the lip. The block is about triangul... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 1 - Parkline Slab : Flying In The Mountains (5.11a)
By: aaron hope When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Destined to be a classic? Felt as fun as Serenity Crack (and a lot less painful). Probably soft for the grade and not sustained. Trad pitches had great rests for setting gear. We started with the just right of the arete on the face past two bolts and a pin and then went left to the crack/arete and followed that up to the P1 anchors. This seems like the most logical start to me and looked a lot easier (and more fun) than the actual 5.9 corner start.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pothole Dome : Pot Luck (5.11a)
By: aaron hope When: Mar 3, 2015

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Comments: Yikes. Is this thing really only 11a? I thought it was harder. But the swing is fun!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Pony Express (5.9)
By: aaron hope When: Dec 26, 2014

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Comments: One of the starting holds broke on me after barely pulling on it. Very likely that the start is harder now. In general, this climb is loose if you step, pull on the holds left of the bolt line. Be careful.


Location: International : Europe : Norway : Nissedal : mot sola (5.9+)
By: aaron hope When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Awesome climb. First pitch was a bit grassy and weird (beta: take the left corner, not the right one). But it gets great after that. The crux pitch was a bit wet for us (actual crux was dry) but the climbing was easy to avoid the drips. Surprise offwidth on that last pitch was hard!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier : Diagonal Crack (5.10d)
By: aaron hope When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: The bolt has been replaced with a glue-in, albeit a couple feet higher than the original where the crack actually runs out and the moves get hard. The old manky stud has been removed and the rock patched. Also, the two bolts at the end of Godzilla have been replaced which brings back the opportunity for a fun right finish to the Diagonal Crack.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow Spire Direct (5.8 C2)
By: aaron hope When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Although a lot of this route is great rock, there are a couple of heads up sections. When we climbed this in 2011, I knocked off a rock in the 4th pitch chimney when i took a fall. This was before the new topos that clearly state "go left". Be sure you do that. Also, my partner took a pretty big fall on the 5th pitch when a microwave sized block cam off underneath the horizontal traverse. The rest of the route seemed great.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Telesis (5.11b PG13)
By: aaron hope When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: Does anyone know the first ascent story with this thing? I'm curious why the first half of the climb is so well protected on both 5.10 and 5.11 terrain, but the last half seems to be runnout at very similar grades. Was it led ground up? Drilled from hooks?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: aaron hope When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: Do you mean like a tunnel through onto the face?


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Running Springs Area : Keller Peak
By: aaron hope When: Dec 19, 2013

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Comments: Is this area accessible and climbable in the winter on a warm day? How long after a snow storm do the south facing aspects usually melt away?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lower Falls Amphitheatre : Guiding Light (5.10a)
By: aaron hope When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: I agree with 10b/c. Sustained with decent rests and good pro, but small. Definite crux at the top of the thin crack. I used all my C3s on this one. Really fun climb!




Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Photo
By: aaron hope When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: Whale Beach, East Lake Tahoe?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Cosumnes River Gorge : Gutenberger Wall : Trout Fishing in America (5.11a)
By: aaron hope When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: I think you mean the traverse goes from climbers right to left.

During the right water level, this traverse becomes a perfect free solo with a clean fall into the water. Try to get it on your first try, cause it is way harder when your shoes are wet!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier : Bolt Route (5.11a)
By: aaron hope When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Great! Thanks for the new Glue-ins. They are so much better!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pulpit? : Prelude (5.6)
By: aaron hope When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Yea, the first bolt is high and getting to it is no easier than the rest of the climb. Then there's a bunch of bolts before you get to the crux which, oddly, comes halfway between a 15-20 foot runout. It doesn't make sense. But then, a lot of routes in pine canyon are like that. Maybe the routes change over time...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Knob Job (5.10b)
By: aaron hope When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: I also appreciated having a third #1 and #2. I thought the meat of the climb was the sustained, glorious hand jamming up to the crux. The crux is short and you get a great rest from which you can hangout and place good gear.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Skinheads (5.10d)
By: aaron hope When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I think there's confusion about this route. There are two variations. The one listed in supertopo shows the right variation after the 4th bolt. This goes through the 5.8R terrain (and, yes, the anchors at 80-feet are gone). The other varition which is well bolted and has a number of 5.10 cruxes goes up straight (kind of left) above the small knobby roof. The left variation can barely be lowered/TRed with a 60 meter rope.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Jugs Revisited (5.9)
By: aaron hope When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Really fun climb. I agree - bring small gear. I placed a red, purple, and green Black Diamond C3 (along with bigger stuff in the beginning and at the end). Although fairly well protected throughout, you do have to commit to the stiff 5.9 crux with the last good gear placement a couple feet below you.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: aaron hope When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: This is probably one of my favorite trad leads in the area. But I wouldn't say you could sew up the second pitch (at least the beginning part anyway). I found one good pocket for a red camalot and then nothing again until the roof after the bolts. Sure, there are cracks, but they are very hollow or depend on a single sketchy block which, IMO, shouldn't be used for pro. If the two old bolts were replaced and a bolt added on the first pitch, this would be fantastic and safe lead. Any thoughts on t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : West Country (5.7) : Photo
By: aaron hope When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: I think you mean pitch 4.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10c)
By: aaron hope When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Good beta elsewhere on here. Just want to reiterate that the orange/red offset master cam protects the 5.9 slab very well. I was surprised how bomber the offset felt in that pin scar. If you don't have offsets, then at least know that the 5.9 slab move is much easier than any of the other 5.9 moves on the route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Boltway (5.8)
By: aaron hope When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Just so there is no confusion, Eunuch goes right, Boltway goes up. They do share beginnings, but if you're looking for runnout slab then you can climb anywhere above the Flake.


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