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Staying Warm on South Face of Washington Column


Member Since: Nov 15, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact aaron hope


Point Rank: # 2,382
Total Points: 206
Last Year: 41
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All (240) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (24) | Comments (56) | Posts (58) | Stars (47) | Ratings (52)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: aaron hope When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: Do you mean like a tunnel through onto the face?


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Keller Peak
By: aaron hope When: Dec 19, 2013

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Comments: Is this area accessible and climbable in the winter on a warm day? How long after a snow storm do the south facing aspects usually melt away?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lower Falls Amphitheatre : Guiding Light (5.10a)
By: aaron hope When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: I agree with 10b/c. Sustained with decent rests and good pro, but small. Definite crux at the top of the thin crack. I used all my C3s on this one. Really fun climb!




Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Photo
By: aaron hope When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: Whale Beach, East Lake Tahoe?


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Cosumnes River Gorge : Gutenberger Wall : Trout Fishing (5.11a)
By: aaron hope When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: I think you mean the traverse goes from climbers right to left.

During the right water level, this traverse becomes a perfect free solo with a clean fall into the water. Try to get it on your first try, cause it is way harder when your shoes are wet!


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier : Bolt Route (5.11a)
By: aaron hope When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Great! Thanks for the new Glue-ins. They are so much better!


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pulpit? : Prelude (5.6)
By: aaron hope When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Yea, the first bolt is high and getting to it is no easier than the rest of the climb. Then there's a bunch of bolts before you get to the crux which, oddly, comes halfway between a 15-20 foot runout. It doesn't make sense. But then, a lot of routes in pine canyon are like that. Maybe the routes change over time...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Knob Job (5.10b)
By: aaron hope When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: I also appreciated having a third #1 and #2. I thought the meat of the climb was the sustained, glorious hand jamming up to the crux. The crux is short and you get a great rest from which you can hangout and place good gear.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Skinheads (5.10d)
By: aaron hope When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I think there's confusion about this route. There are two variations. The one listed in supertopo shows the right variation after the 4th bolt. This goes through the 5.8R terrain (and, yes, the anchors at 80-feet are gone). The other varition which is well bolted and has a number of 5.10 cruxes goes up straight (kind of left) above the small knobby roof. The left variation can barely be lowered/TRed with a 60 meter rope.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Jugs Revisited (5.9)
By: aaron hope When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Really fun climb. I agree - bring small gear. I placed a red, purple, and green Black Diamond C3 (along with bigger stuff in the beginning and at the end). Although fairly well protected throughout, you do have to commit to the stiff 5.9 crux with the last good gear placement a couple feet below you.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: aaron hope When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: This is probably one of my favorite trad leads in the area. But I wouldn't say you could sew up the second pitch (at least the beginning part anyway). I found one good pocket for a red camalot and then nothing again until the roof after the bolts. Sure, there are cracks, but they are very hollow or depend on a single sketchy block which, IMO, shouldn't be used for pro. If the two old bolts were replaced and a bolt added on the first pitch, this would be fantastic and safe lead. Any thoughts on t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : West Country (5.7) : Photo
By: aaron hope When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: I think you mean pitch 4.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10c)
By: aaron hope When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Good beta elsewhere on here. Just want to reiterate that the orange/red offset master cam protects the 5.9 slab very well. I was surprised how bomber the offset felt in that pin scar. If you don't have offsets, then at least know that the 5.9 slab move is much easier than any of the other 5.9 moves on the route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Boltway (5.8)
By: aaron hope When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Just so there is no confusion, Eunuch goes right, Boltway goes up. They do share beginnings, but if you're looking for runnout slab then you can climb anywhere above the Flake.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : The Fetus (5.10a/b)
By: aaron hope When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Hold broke on me near the first bolt. Near the third bolt there is a really loose flake that is going to come off soon. Don't use it!!!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Dream Easy (5.8)
By: aaron hope When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: Solid 5.9. And SUPER fun.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
By: aaron hope When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Any updates on the conditions? Is the snow mostly gone?

Thanks!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Aid Route (5.11b)
By: aaron hope When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: On 2/16 there was a bat hidden in the crack just below the first pitch belay. Careful when jamming!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : Between a Rock and a Hard P... (5.11a)
By: aaron hope When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: This was a surprisingly fun climb. Definitely not as sustained as the Verdict but possibly a bit more technical? Plus there is a nice rest where you can totally recover before pulling the 11a crux at the top. Very well protected by bolts except for a 15 foot gap between the second and third bolt on easy (5.6/7) terrain that can be protected with a bomber yellow #2 BD. Although the climbing is easy here, I recommended bringing the cam because the rock is a bit loose (only place on the route... more >>


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: aaron hope When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: Not to bust the chops of those who have already spent time publishing Pine Canyon (much appreciated!) but can we get this place sorted out better? In other words, sort the routes within their respective formation like every other page in MP? That would significantly help people out trying to navigate Pine Canyon.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Sun Wall Left (5.10c)
By: aaron hope When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Did the left hand variation. The hardest move comes right before the ledge, with the last obvious pro well below your feet. Had to move in some uncommon ways to make it work, but it was great!


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier : Diagonal Crack (5.10d)
By: aaron hope When: Jan 4, 2013

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Comments: The first or second bolt (I can't remember) has all but completely pulled out. Looks like someone took a good fall on it.

Edit: the bolt is gone as of oct, 2013 along with some of its neighbors to the left (Godzilla?)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: aaron hope When: Dec 26, 2012

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Comments: I agree with the comment about the 5.8 offwidth section being MUCH easier than Little John left.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: aaron hope When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: I was nervous about the first part of P1 so I brought my offset cams. Didn't really work. The scars are just too flaring or too shallow. I was able to get one red/black metolius in one of the scars, about 15 feet up. But I would give it a 6/7 out of 10. 10 being totally bomber. Unfortunately the cam made the next move harder by blocking a perfectly good foothold! Truth is, the first 30 feet are pretty casual if you are attempting 5.10's in the valley.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch... (5.10c)
By: aaron hope When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Thought this was harder than Serenity Crack. For me the finger jams on serenity were bomber compared to the top half of this climb..but the feet were a lot better on this one. Super awesome climb though. Loved the roof move!!


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