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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Pena Blanca : The Garden : ... : Conjugation (5.8)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Feb 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just dubbed this route myself, for lack of any better information. Please correct me if you have information.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Slabs : Buckey Blue (5.7)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jan 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is an old 1/4" bolt on a slab to the left of the route after the first "crux". This looks like it leads to a weakness in the headwall to the left of the large right-facing corner, but probably is a grade or two harder.
This wall lends itself well to meandering. One can take off in different directions and still be on 5.6 climbing with good pro.
The name of this route is one I've heard from other climbers, when referring to this area, and I hope I've properly identified it.
Karl Kiser i... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Slabs
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jan 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had originally posted this area as "Barb's Buttress". I think Charlie Cundiff may have called it that and the name stuck in my head. Barb was the wife of one of the old-timer Organ mtn climbers and I thought the formation was named for her because she was often taken to this area. Ingraham's guide describes these slabs in his section on the Rabbit Ears Massif as a good area to train your alpine skills, as it has a forgiving approach (at least by Organ mts standards)
I haven't found any concre... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jan 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Each time I've been up to the tooth these two cracks have grabbed my eye. Compared to the Tooth's main attractions, I can understand why they're not mentioned: Who wants to spend most the day hiking up to this face only to do a single pitch climb? But they look good so the last time I went up there with my wife, we jumped on the right-hand crack, that being the one I judged to be easier. It turned out to be stiffer than it looked, at least for someone with my limited steep-crack climbing skills.... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.9+)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jan 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Dennis Jackson guide gives the third pitch a 5.10 rating, so perhaps I am sand-bagging the rating on this a bit. However, I didn't think that pitch was much more difficult than many other parts of the climb, so I tended to agree with what can be found in the old Rosul-Dunning topos. One other note: the final finger crack isn't obvious from underneath the sotol buch. There are two grass filled cracks just to the right of it that don't look inviting. an alternate finish shown in the Rosul-Dunn... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R) : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking at the route-topo more carefully, I realize I deviate even more. Above and right of the Pitch 5 belay is a large right facing corner. I've always climbed this (as evidenced by the other photo posted for this route). Almost near the top of this corner is a break where you get onto the slab. then 30 feet of slab to a small ledge with pro, and another 30-40 ft to the "Big Bivie" pitch 9 belay. I'll definitely try the other way next time I go out there.
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Location: Aaron Hobson : Aaron with a Red-tail Hawk : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Don't try this at home" probably applies here. But if you think you'd like to check out www.hawkwatch.org. I worked at their Goshutes site in the fall of 2005.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R) : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: its interesting where this topo shows belay 5. I've climbed this route half a dozen each time with different partners and we always avoid getting to close to the large overlap that this topo's belay 5 shows. I wonder if this was the original ascent route, and that now most people skip going there, becaus eit involves a sketchy un-protected traverse?
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: May 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is a picture of the middle pitch of the route "Tooth Fairy" .
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Vedauwoo Dome
By: Aaron Hobson When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This dome did not have a name as far as Charlie and I could determine. Charlie opted to dub it "Vedauwoo Dome" for the two large-cracks we climbed which reminded him of the northern climbing area. If anyone has information, please speak up.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Percha Creek, Hillsboro
By: Aaron Hobson When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area has seen some serious terraforming since last year. All the trees below Duck Soup area are gone, and the ground has eroded out a few feet, making the initial moves tricker. Most of the trees that interefered with Meanderneath You are also gone. In fact the only tree that remains at the base of the crag is the tall cottonwood in front of Nutcracker, and much of its root-base is showing.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Lesser Spire : Cacahuate (5.10- A1-)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Mar 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wasn't sure as to the name of this route, although a great description of it was provided to Charlie by his friend Dave Lucas. Charlie thinks the aid move could go free but he didn't send it on this day.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Pena Blanca : The Garden : ... : Old Yeller (5.5)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of the crack systems directly below the starting ledge for old-yeller have some fun climbing. The large blackened crack to the left looks promising as a trad-lead. The more discontinuous stuff just under the ledge would be scary to lead and have some very loose rocks (even the stuff that looks solid), but makes a fun top-rope.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Pena Blanca : The Volcano : ... : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Nov 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks again Lowell. Actually, the sub-title text for the photo was already correct, but perhaps you think the grunge and Sponge should be separated into their own respective areas?
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Pena Blanca : The Volcano : ... : Tenth Vision (V4)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Nov 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Lowell, corrections have been made, keep em coming....
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Cross-trainer (5.7)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Nov 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jim Campbell is credited with equipping the route with bolts. he set it up as a good route to teach folks climbing skills. It certainly offers many opportunities to learn multi-pitch skills: rope-drag avoidance, gear management, route-finding. I thank him for his effort.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Green Thumb (5.6)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Nov 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I dubbed this route Greenthumb due to the amount of vegetation that had to be cleared out of the OW. It was so choked with vines that it was not even clearly recognizble from below. But they came out very easily, and revealed this nice climb.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Wedge : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "Two Parallel Grooves" landmark can clearly be seen in this photo. Look just above the cloud-line. That's apprximately the start for The West Ridge.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Wedge
By: Aaron Hobson When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The summit register is in very poor shape. I intend to replace it next time I get up there (hopefully soon). Does anybody know what happens to old Summit Registers? I'd hate for all the history therein to be lost, but I'm not sure exactly what is normal practice as far as preserving that information.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Southern Comfort Wall : Margaritaville (5.8+)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Nov 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Instead of rappelling diagonally to the right to the tree, you can tend slightly left and you can just barely reach a belay ledge with bolt-anchors (belay ledge for the route, Wild Turkey and "Zombie").
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Rapunzel Wall
By: Aaron Hobson When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I seem to remember a route in-between Rapunzel's Revenge and Fee Fi Fo Fum, which follows an arete. this was actually one of the more memorable routes on the rapunzel wall, but I don't know any information about its name. I felt it to be 5.8. 4 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Mother Goose Wall : What To Do, What To Do (5.11a)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: D. Jackson's guide rates this 5.10a. I tend to agree with Greg's rating although i was pretty tired when I climbed this one.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Merlins Mantra (5.11a)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Sep 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's possible to clip the second bolt while standing off to the left, which seems down-rate the climb, at least mentally. The crux is pulling past this second bolt.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Hueco Syndrome (5.10c/d)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Aug 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The old D. Jackson guide rates this as a 5.10-. I felt it to be much more challenging than the neighboring Sea of Holes, even with the added security of more bolts.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Pena Blanca : The Volcano : The Grunge and The Sponge
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jul 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I couldn't distinguish the various problems that are on the sponge boulder. It's small enough where you can simply have at it and enjoy some nice bouldering moves.
I also had difficulty figuring out where the 6 problems on the Grunge boulder are. Some of the obvious places for a route seemed too chossy. It's possible that holds have broken and routes are no longer climbed.
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