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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Los Hermanos de la Penitent... (5.12d)
By: 426 When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great if you do some trad, nice hand/fist jammie right before crux. Fun crux, not real polished, really enjoyed this route.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall South : Hell or High Water (5.11b)
By: 426 When: Nov 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks!
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall North : Hidden Assets (5.10a)
By: 426 When: Nov 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Relatively new anchors on this one, fantastic stuff. Great route and possibly awkward.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall North : Stone Wave (5.11a/b)
By: 426 When: Nov 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can nasty through just right of the mantle (savage bearhug) at about the same grade (11a har har har) with some semidecent pro. Sick route, 5 star.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Pile Driver (5.11b)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Traverse in from the Wasteland and it's 5.12e..."Dwindlin' Greenbacks."
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Mouse Trap (5.12c)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't this route have a nice little story about rodents eating through the FA'ist fixed line? Shipoopi?
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Leo-I'm lame at the intertube. Great brookie action in the creek...haven't been to the lake---anyone got the line on bass/perch action there?
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : Rumor Has It (5.11b)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tricky to onsight...keep your composure and be prepared for lots of slickness and sidepulls.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Jerry's Quarry : Equinox (5.12c)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with *someone*, it was 11d+/- on TR with "discreet" rope tension ;)-
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Mayhem Cove : Car Jacker (5.9)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think these are almost all Dano routes. Look for the stamp on the first bolt on this crag, Dan used to often put the rating on them!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Mayhem Cove : Diamond (5.10b)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I watched a guy lower his gf off the end of the ropes, I'm not sure if it was a 60m, but ties them ends folks!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Mayhem Cove : Scullduggery (5.11a)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Christmas Valley (Luther Ro... : Distillery Wall : Seven and Seven (5.11c/d)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch those rope ends, you MUST go into the gully if you have a short (60m or less) rope!!!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Hair and Now (5.11c)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Prolly mid 90s. I think it was a TR for eons...
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Palsy (5.10a/b)
By: 426 When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct of Palsy has scored a few broken ankles and bent egos when gear ripped...if yer feeling froggy on 5.10 face, great...but the placements are somewhat blind and difficult.
The face climb referred to above I forget the name of. I thought it was even a touch harder, 11d-ish. Not as good as some of the other lines at Snowshed...
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a)
By: 426 When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice history dab!
Superb, albeit a bit dirty in the crux flare. Shull's new guide gives it 11b...the crux hold is nearly broken (my bad), git it while it's "hot"...
Did it much differently than the Gaskin photo! The upper crack is amazing and friendly.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: 426 When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great post David. I can't wait to get back and "really" press with the feet! How much is a CO fishing license (out of state) these days?
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : The Polly-nator (5.12a)
By: 426 When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad to hear that Aeon. I couldn't get my foot to stick over the lip on the 1/4" glass (on redpoint), so I had to double heel hook, ripping off one shoe in the process. Thank stars for the "easy" finish.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Lembert Dome-Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10c)
By: 426 When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun with a few cranks.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: 426 When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the Technicolor Crux in a pouring thunderstorm. Feet were skating so bad that my partner said he had to "lock off and look away."
Memorable. Chossy in places. Heads up for missiles. I agree about the Death Slabs. The hike is humongous.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: 426 When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A superb slab challenge to the 5.10 slab leader, even for a budding one. Safe and smeary! Look around closely if yer stumped. Don't let yer guard down until you clip the anchors, after the crux is tricky and sequential! Channel your inner Sacherer...
Go right for the last pitches!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Bircheff-Williams (5.11b)
By: 426 When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st pitch easier if taller, fixed pins when we did it. Don't be scared, fire it. Fabulous! Need to go back for the rest sometime...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Northeast Buttress (5.9+ PG13)
By: 426 When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably my favorite route in the Valley. Builds nicely in difficulty, very exposed. A few notes:
I heard you used to stem off a tree in the crux. It's not there any more. These moves were hard onsight!
Up near the last pitch, we went right on some thin crack as per the old green Meyers guide. I felt this bulge was 5.10 with somewhat dubious pro, but we avoided the wide stuff up the obvious corner. My second, a solid 9 climber, couldn't touch that pitch...
Dogwoods were in bloom, it was ... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : West Face (5.11c)
By: 426 When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P3 is extremely slippery, watch yerself!
I still have to free this bad boy, climbed like a demon on the lower part, but the funky "J-Tree" pod pitch (P8) spit me off. I also seem to recall using /discrete/ rope tension on the 10d "near the top" pitch.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Photo
By: 426 When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Curious how yer cookin' them? I fileted and rubbed in cornmeal with a few drops of oil.
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