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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cheeseburger In Paradise (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Ivan. I thought this was the Raven and fairly graded at 5.9+. A bit tricky at the shallow corner, but not harder than 9+.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this photo is of Linkage,
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Country (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt this was significantly harder than Linkage (a few routes right), which was a fairly standard .10.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Linkage (5.10b/c)
By: 303scott When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Assuming the photo I posted is Linkage and not "Unnamed 5.10" (see photo of next route in MP) a 70 gets you down no problem. Not 140 feet.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: 303scott When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rappel the route directly climber's right of Days with double ropes. From the top, use the rap rings you clipped on your way to the anchor near the bowl and rap 90' to the third belay on days. Then rap the bolt line climber's right of Days. Easy to find the anchors, clean pulls and you end up at your packs. Don't know if a single rope will do it.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : What's My Line Direct (5.8+ PG13)
By: 303scott When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Went straight up at the first bolts- agree it is 10 or 10+. The traverse after clipping the second bolt (i.e. where Geir's photos indicates 5.9R)felt more like .9R/X. This is probably because I am not as comfortable with Cochise runouts. However, by the time you are clipping the third bolt (just before the right facing book feature) you are 20-25 feet above your last bolt, 20-25 feet left of the last bolt, and only 40-50 feet off the ledge. It is sustained .8 climbing to get... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: 303scott When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always started the traverse before the roof at the broken section about halfway on the horizontal red line shown in this picture. You can actually see a trail to it if you look closely.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Cold Turkey (5.9+)
By: 303scott When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This should be on anyone's tour de obscure in Eldo. If you've climbed enough in Eldo to be searching for obscure routes, nothing on this one will cause you concern and there is some really nice crack climbing above the chimney. Also, it looks like someone is putting up anchors for a new route that will also service this one, which will make the last 50 feet of 5.3 scrambling on loose rock unnecessary.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Casey's Route (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route. I thought the bulge was solid 10+. Does anyone know what the gear is like to the second anchor? It looked a bit thin/absent...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Chick Flick (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were a little confused by the description in the book and started on the pillar left of the corner in some choss. Nice varied route after the first 25 feet. I thought it protected well with 2 #4 C4s, no need for a 5. If the direct start goes at .10 it would be a great route at that grade.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Mono (5.11-)
By: 303scott When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was pretty stiff for 11-. The first 10 feet are awesome .5 camalots. The layback is 25 feet of strenuous #1 (blue) mastercams with a couple feet of yellows at the top. I could only get one pad through most of the layback section. Little bit of rot at the top, and one very loose block
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Missing Link (5.10d)
By: 303scott When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, the first 6 feet are basically saturated in bird crap...but I still thought it was really good climbing with great position. Burly underclinging and awkward jamming with good pro (assuming it doesn't grease out on the crap). Save some 0.5-1 inch gear for above where it is mildly runout 5.8 climbing (but seriously runout if you don't have those sizes).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: 303scott When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend doing the original pitch 1. While the gear maybe isn't the greatest in spots, the climbing is quite nice and it is very sustained. T&G is great, but if you have never tried the original first pitch, you should.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rinodina (5.9+ R)
By: 303scott When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely adventure climbing in Eldo...Dan G. combined the first two pitches, and we were apparently off route. He ended up climbing just right of a very small tree/bush (his only pro in 40 feet) through a nasty rotten band up to a small, right-facing dihedral. He traversed right up the ramp from there to join the last section of Point Break. Not terribly hard climbing but extremely run out and very rotten. Probably R/X given that you would hit the slab below if you fell. Rope drag was the... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Escape Artist (5.9+)
By: 303scott When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the route to avoid the north gully exit: The Escape.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: 303scott When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben,
I totally agree - lucky for us it was mostly dry. The proper route out onto the arete looks like it would give you some nice position too - have to try it next time.
Thanks to you and Josh for putting this up!
Scott
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: 303scott When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got a little lost on p6. Here's what I think you are supposed to do: above the roof 30 ft off the belay, clip the bolt and traverse left 10-15 feet to the FIRST thin crack (heavily vegetated). Climb that to a grassy ledge that is between 6 and 12 inches wide. I don't think this is the "grassy ledge" described above. Continue more or less straight up to a bulge and take the path of least resistance working up and left to the "grassy ledge" described above and then presumably follow the desc... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Leaping Lizards (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route is pg-13 or R rated- 20 feet of dihedral stemming with no pro, with a fall landing you on the slabby terrain below.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Aug 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m rope and about 15 feet of very easy simul climbing, but that of course depends on how high you choose to start the roped climbing.
I would definitely bring at least one new Camalot #4 with you. The squeeze chimney protects with new 3s and 4s. Also, slinging the fixed gear like a chockstone kind of blows, so you might bring 3 pieces of 5-6mm cord tied in 8 inch loops to girth hitch the 3 fixed cams where the webbing used to be.
Regarding difficul... more >>
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Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall
By: 303scott When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: THIS WALL IS CURRENTLY CLOSED- LEAVE YOUR GEAR ON THE MAINLAND.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Two Timer (5.10d)
By: 303scott When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed that the photos are wrong and the description is correct. Two Timer is an excellent LF corner with a little bit of loose rock down low and then enduro steep jamming through bulges. Dpurf's gear beta is not for Two Timer either.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.11 Fingercrack (5.11)
By: 303scott When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.11? Gurka felt substantially easier than this. 20 feet of yellow/blue master cam with crappy/no feet....
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Sardikar (5.10+)
By: 303scott When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't miss this route! Great climbing, but, as stated above, a bit funky/scary off the deck. Before pulling the hard moves 25 feet up you can get two small pieces in a wedged chockstone of questionable quality, or it looks like it would take a bomber #5 Camalot. If the chockstone pieces blow, you deck. After that, it's 95 feet of glorious climbing.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown 10 (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Jan 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice steep handcrack reminiscent of Wavy Gravy, if slightly less wavy. The business is steep #3 camalots- murder on those with smaller hands.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: 303scott When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rack for this could easily consist of 2 .75s, 2 1's and a 2. There are only two or three moves of class 5 climbing, and one of them is bolt protected.
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