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Member Since: Mar 21, 2008
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,345
Total Points: 228
Last Year: 56
Last 30 Days: 1
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 269 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 28 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 88 | Stars 55 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Hey Monty, glad you liked the route and thanks for posting that sweet pic! Regarding the C0 versus A0 rating, I know next to nothing about aid. However, my understanding of clean aid is that if a party can ascend the route without a hammer it is clean aid (even if bolts are present). Of course, that could be completely wrong, and I will be happy to change it if that's the case!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Mike! I believe you can rap with a 70m to the anchors at the top of p1 of the route (p2 of Rainbow Highway) based on another party telling me my ends reached - I have not done it. However, you can't get to the ground (although you could probably build an intermediate anchor and clean it on the way up). I have rapped to the bottom of the crux pitch (pitch 3) on a single 70m. A few of the raps are pretty close, so watch ends. It is in prime shape right now, so let us know what you think... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: As a follow up, I have not given this route any stars. Much like a proud new father, I would likely find it beautiful no matter what: 5 stars on a 4-star scale. Thus, we will wait to see what the community thinks. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Joe! As you know it was a bit of work. Here's the history: This route first caught my eye on September 16, 2012. Rainbow Highway had just been completed, and the reviews from friends were that it was spectacular. My cousin and I rappelled in on that day, and, on the rappel from the top of the 4th pitch, I noticed what appeared to be a very dirty, splitter, finger crack in slightly less than vertical rock on a perfectly clean face. It was love at first sight…. The entire route was ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans
By: 303scott When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: As of last weekend, Denver Mountain Parks has started charging $5 to park at Summit Lake. Don't know if you can avoid the fees by parking out on the road. It doesn't appear that there is any type of annual pass.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Montana Gangster (5.11)
By: 303scott When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: While the upper section looks enticing, I bailed on this route after a few footholds crumbled in the rotten section. Gear in that area is suspect too as you can't tell if you are placing it in rock or just really hard dirt...I would avoid unless/until it cleans up significantly.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : The Flying Buttress (5.9)
By: 303scott When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: Really great route. The direct start is to .10c what the Southwest Corner of the Saber is to .10a. Yes, there are no moves harder than .10c, but I counted 2-3 .10c cruxes, the gear is quite finicky, and there are no real rests once the difficulties start. In other words, it is fantastic.

We got lost on pitch 2. MP says to follow the obvious line up the prow, and Gillett says "step right" to the West side. After looking at the West side (dead vertical and huge exposure), there was no way I... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Alpine Lite Cliffs : Main Wall : The German and the Scot (5.10a)
By: 303scott When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: The climbing on this route is quite good, but the approach knocks it down a bit. We soloed a bunch of low fifth class x rated (sometimes wet) slabs to get to it. I would definitely recommend going down to the lower lake and starting from there, as opposed to traversing in from the west. Stays in the shade until about 2PM this time of year.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a)
By: 303scott When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Approach beta: climb the gully on the east side of the formation all the way to the top (basically until you can't climb any higher without roping up). When you look up, you will be directly under the large triangular roof that Drew McLean refers to. There is a 4th class ledge that reaches the ground there that is very hard to see from below. Take the ledge up and left for about 50 meters (with sparse but reasonable pro), and belay at the first spot where you can build a reasonable anchor. ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cheeseburger In Paradise (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Ivan. I thought this was the Raven and fairly graded at 5.9+. A bit tricky at the shallow corner, but not harder than 9+.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.10 - just after t... (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: I think this photo is of Linkage,


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Country (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: I felt this was significantly harder than Linkage (a few routes right), which was a fairly standard .10.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Linkage (5.10b/c)
By: 303scott When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Assuming the photo I posted is Linkage and not "Unnamed 5.10" (see photo of next route in MP) a 70 gets you down no problem. Not 140 feet.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: 303scott When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: You can rappel the route directly climber's right of Days with double ropes. From the top, use the rap rings you clipped on your way to the anchor near the bowl and rap 90' to the third belay on days. Then rap the bolt line climber's right of Days. Easy to find the anchors, clean pulls and you end up at your packs. Don't know if a single rope will do it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : What's My Line Direct (5.8+ PG13)
By: 303scott When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route. Went straight up at the first bolts- agree it is 10 or 10+. The traverse after clipping the second bolt (i.e. where Geir's photos indicates 5.9R)felt more like .9R/X. This is probably because I am not as comfortable with Cochise runouts. However, by the time you are clipping the third bolt (just before the right facing book feature) you are 20-25 feet above your last bolt, 20-25 feet left of the last bolt, and only 40-50 feet off the ledge. It is sustained .8 climbing to get... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: 303scott When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: I've always started the traverse before the roof at the broken section about halfway on the horizontal red line shown in this picture. You can actually see a trail to it if you look closely.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Cold Turkey (5.9+)
By: 303scott When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: This should be on anyone's tour de obscure in Eldo. If you've climbed enough in Eldo to be searching for obscure routes, nothing on this one will cause you concern and there is some really nice crack climbing above the chimney. Also, it looks like someone is putting up anchors for a new route that will also service this one, which will make the last 50 feet of 5.3 scrambling on loose rock unnecessary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Casey's Route (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Good route. I thought the bulge was solid 10+. Does anyone know what the gear is like to the second anchor? It looked a bit thin/absent...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Chick Flick (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: We were a little confused by the description in the book and started on the pillar left of the corner in some choss. Nice varied route after the first 25 feet. I thought it protected well with 2 #4 C4s, no need for a 5. If the direct start goes at .10 it would be a great route at that grade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Mono (5.11-)
By: 303scott When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: This was pretty stiff for 11-. The first 10 feet are awesome .5 camalots. The layback is 25 feet of strenuous #1 (blue) mastercams with a couple feet of yellows at the top. I could only get one pad through most of the layback section. Little bit of rot at the top, and one very loose block


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Missing Link (5.10d)
By: 303scott When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: Yes, the first 6 feet are basically saturated in bird crap...but I still thought it was really good climbing with great position. Burly underclinging and awkward jamming with good pro (assuming it doesn't grease out on the crap). Save some 0.5-1 inch gear for above where it is mildly runout 5.8 climbing (but seriously runout if you don't have those sizes).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: 303scott When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: I recommend doing the original pitch 1. While the gear maybe isn't the greatest in spots, the climbing is quite nice and it is very sustained. T&G is great, but if you have never tried the original first pitch, you should.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rinodina (5.9+ R)
By: 303scott When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Definitely adventure climbing in Eldo...Dan G. combined the first two pitches, and we were apparently off route. He ended up climbing just right of a very small tree/bush (his only pro in 40 feet) through a nasty rotten band up to a small, right-facing dihedral. He traversed right up the ramp from there to join the last section of Point Break. Not terribly hard climbing but extremely run out and very rotten. Probably R/X given that you would hit the slab below if you fell. Rope drag was the... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Escape Artist (5.9+)
By: 303scott When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: This is the route to avoid the north gully exit: The Escape.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: 303scott When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: Ben,
I totally agree - lucky for us it was mostly dry. The proper route out onto the arete looks like it would give you some nice position too - have to try it next time.
Thanks to you and Josh for putting this up!
Scott


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