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Member Since: Mar 21, 2008
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 249 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 21 | Page Improvments | Comments 58 | Posts 82 | Stars 54 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Montana Gangster (5.11)
By: 303scott When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: While the upper section looks enticing, I bailed on this route after a few footholds crumbled in the rotten section. Gear in that area is suspect too as you can't tell if you are placing it in rock or just really hard dirt...I would avoid unless/until it cleans up significantly.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : The Flying Buttress (5.9)
By: 303scott When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: Really great route. The direct start is to .10c what the Southwest Corner of the Saber is to .10a. Yes, there are no moves harder than .10c, but I counted 2-3 .10c cruxes, the gear is quite finicky, and there are no real rests once the difficulties start. In other words, it is fantastic.

We got lost on pitch 2. MP says to follow the obvious line up the prow, and Gillett says "step right" to the West side. After looking at the West side (dead vertical and huge exposure), there was no way I... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Alpine Lite Cliffs : Main Wall : The German and the Scot (5.10a)
By: 303scott When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: The climbing on this route is quite good, but the approach knocks it down a bit. We soloed a bunch of low fifth class x rated (sometimes wet) slabs to get to it. I would definitely recommend going down to the lower lake and starting from there, as opposed to traversing in from the west. Stays in the shade until about 2PM this time of year.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a)
By: 303scott When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Approach beta: climb the gully on the east side of the formation all the way to the top (basically until you can't climb any higher without roping up). When you look up, you will be directly under the large triangular roof that Drew McLean refers to. There is a 4th class ledge that reaches the ground there that is very hard to see from below. Take the ledge up and left for about 50 meters (with sparse but reasonable pro), and belay at the first spot where you can build a reasonable anchor. ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cheeseburger In Paradise (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Ivan. I thought this was the Raven and fairly graded at 5.9+. A bit tricky at the shallow corner, but not harder than 9+.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.10 - just after t... (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: I think this photo is of Linkage,


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Country (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: I felt this was significantly harder than Linkage (a few routes right), which was a fairly standard .10.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Linkage (5.10b/c)
By: 303scott When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Assuming the photo I posted is Linkage and not "Unnamed 5.10" (see photo of next route in MP) a 70 gets you down no problem. Not 140 feet.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: 303scott When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: You can rappel the route directly climber's right of Days with double ropes. From the top, use the rap rings you clipped on your way to the anchor near the bowl and rap 90' to the third belay on days. Then rap the bolt line climber's right of Days. Easy to find the anchors, clean pulls and you end up at your packs. Don't know if a single rope will do it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : What's My Line Direct (5.8+ PG13)
By: 303scott When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route. Went straight up at the first bolts- agree it is 10 or 10+. The traverse after clipping the second bolt (i.e. where Geir's photos indicates 5.9R)felt more like .9R/X. This is probably because I am not as comfortable with Cochise runouts. However, by the time you are clipping the third bolt (just before the right facing book feature) you are 20-25 feet above your last bolt, 20-25 feet left of the last bolt, and only 40-50 feet off the ledge. It is sustained .8 climbing to get... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: 303scott When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: I've always started the traverse before the roof at the broken section about halfway on the horizontal red line shown in this picture. You can actually see a trail to it if you look closely.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Cold Turkey (5.9+)
By: 303scott When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: This should be on anyone's tour de obscure in Eldo. If you've climbed enough in Eldo to be searching for obscure routes, nothing on this one will cause you concern and there is some really nice crack climbing above the chimney. Also, it looks like someone is putting up anchors for a new route that will also service this one, which will make the last 50 feet of 5.3 scrambling on loose rock unnecessary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Casey's Route (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Good route. I thought the bulge was solid 10+. Does anyone know what the gear is like to the second anchor? It looked a bit thin/absent...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Chick Flick (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: We were a little confused by the description in the book and started on the pillar left of the corner in some choss. Nice varied route after the first 25 feet. I thought it protected well with 2 #4 C4s, no need for a 5. If the direct start goes at .10 it would be a great route at that grade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Mono (5.11-)
By: 303scott When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: This was pretty stiff for 11-. The first 10 feet are awesome .5 camalots. The layback is 25 feet of strenuous #1 (blue) mastercams with a couple feet of yellows at the top. I could only get one pad through most of the layback section. Little bit of rot at the top, and one very loose block


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Missing Link (5.10d)
By: 303scott When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: Yes, the first 6 feet are basically saturated in bird crap...but I still thought it was really good climbing with great position. Burly underclinging and awkward jamming with good pro (assuming it doesn't grease out on the crap). Save some 0.5-1 inch gear for above where it is mildly runout 5.8 climbing (but seriously runout if you don't have those sizes).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: 303scott When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: I recommend doing the original pitch 1. While the gear maybe isn't the greatest in spots, the climbing is quite nice and it is very sustained. T&G is great, but if you have never tried the original first pitch, you should.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rinodina (5.9+ R)
By: 303scott When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Definitely adventure climbing in Eldo...Dan G. combined the first two pitches, and we were apparently off route. He ended up climbing just right of a very small tree/bush (his only pro in 40 feet) through a nasty rotten band up to a small, right-facing dihedral. He traversed right up the ramp from there to join the last section of Point Break. Not terribly hard climbing but extremely run out and very rotten. Probably R/X given that you would hit the slab below if you fell. Rope drag was the... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Escape Artist (5.9+)
By: 303scott When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: This is the route to avoid the north gully exit: The Escape.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: 303scott When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: Ben,
I totally agree - lucky for us it was mostly dry. The proper route out onto the arete looks like it would give you some nice position too - have to try it next time.
Thanks to you and Josh for putting this up!
Scott


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: 303scott When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: I got a little lost on p6. Here's what I think you are supposed to do: above the roof 30 ft off the belay, clip the bolt and traverse left 10-15 feet to the FIRST thin crack (heavily vegetated). Climb that to a grassy ledge that is between 6 and 12 inches wide. I don't think this is the "grassy ledge" described above. Continue more or less straight up to a bulge and take the path of least resistance working up and left to the "grassy ledge" described above and then presumably follow the desc... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Leaping Lizards (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: I think this route is pg-13 or R rated- 20 feet of dihedral stemming with no pro, with a fall landing you on the slabby terrain below.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: We combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m rope and about 15 feet of very easy simul climbing, but that of course depends on how high you choose to start the roped climbing.

I would definitely bring at least one new Camalot #4 with you. The squeeze chimney protects with new 3s and 4s. Also, slinging the fixed gear like a chockstone kind of blows, so you might bring 3 pieces of 5-6mm cord tied in 8 inch loops to girth hitch the 3 fixed cams where the webbing used to be.

Regarding difficul... more >>


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall
By: 303scott When: Jun 22, 2012

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Comments: THIS WALL IS CURRENTLY CLOSED- LEAVE YOUR GEAR ON THE MAINLAND.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Two Timer (5.10d)
By: 303scott When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Agreed that the photos are wrong and the description is correct. Two Timer is an excellent LF corner with a little bit of loose rock down low and then enduro steep jamming through bulges. Dpurf's gear beta is not for Two Timer either.


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