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Member Since: Feb 2, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact 20 kN

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Total Points: 727
Last Year: 195
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2176 | Routes 60 | Areas 1 | Photos 18 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 1976 | Stars 86 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
hooliganism

hooliganism

Climbing Gear Discussion : Extreme clusters, chaos and...

Jan 5, 2015

hooliganism

hooliganism

Climbing Gear Discussion : Extreme clusters, chaos and...

Jan 5, 2015

hooliganism

hooliganism

Climbing Gear Discussion : Extreme clusters, chaos and...

Jan 5, 2015

hooliganism

hooliganism

Climbing Gear Discussion : Extreme clusters, chaos and...

Jan 5, 2015

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : Basaseachi : ... : Logical Progression (5.13)
By: 20 kN When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: Curious how the bolting is on this. Is it worth it to bring some gear, or are the bolts actually reasonably spaced?


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Land of the Free (5.12b PG13)
By: 20 kN When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: This is a good route! Bolts are spaced well, but you wont die (probably). You can bring a small rack to supplement if you want.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Mount Garfield : Infinite Bliss (5.10c R)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: No mid June is not too early. It might be rather hot then actually.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: A number of bolts need to be tightened. Nearly all of the bolts are 3/8" wedge bolts with nuts. So if you plan to climb this, try to bring a wrench and tighten up some of the nuts.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Silverback (5.12+)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Loose rock warning: On pitch five (according to Supertopo book), the pitch with the giant 5.10 flake, when my partner reached the base of the flake he stood on a block which fragmented into a number of double-baseball-sized blocks that flew down at me, missing me by a foot or two. It also dislodged a desert of sand which rained down on me and the rest of the route for about 60 seconds straight. Further, rock fell down on me on two other pitches as well.

Just be aware that this route does have s... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Since the original post is a bit unclear (gear list says single 70m), you CANNOT rap this route with a single 70m. We tried and came up 10' too short, even while simulrapping. A single 80m would probably be just barely long enough if simulrapping, or two 50m ropes would be fine too. I am not sure why the OP said to bring a single 70m because you dont need anything more than a 60m to lead any of the pitches and a 70m wont get you to the bottom.

As far as shade goes, since someone else asked, the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: West face, AKA Darude Sandstorm, is like a beach—literally. I am pretty sure this route has more sand on it than the entire Sahara Desert has in it. The route starts out in some really dirty, sandy, overly soft rock and then continues into a #4 wide fists. Clip the 1st belay, which of course is some old drilled angles, and then pull the chimney move. My partner couldent squeeze through with his helmet on, so he left it in the chimney. By the time we got down his helmet was filled with a po... more >>


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall : Cactus Garden (5.9 PG13)
By: 20 kN When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: All the bolts that were originally placed are still there. There is a hole for a new bolt that we are going to add, the bolt just is not there yet.


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall : Flower Tower (Variation) (5.10d) : Photo
By: 20 kN When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: This photo is wrong. The variation is actually left of the dihedral shown in the photo, not right, so about 10' left of this photo.


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall
By: 20 kN When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: The area has been reopened.


As of January 25, 2015, the Moke has been reopened. All climbers are required to sign an electronic waver before climbing at the Moke. You can find the waver here:

hiclimb.org/join.php

Access at this area is fragile, and the area is only open conditionally. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.

Please note the following rules:

- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on t... more >>


Location: Hawaii
By: 20 kN When: Nov 27, 2014

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Comments: Little to none. Oahu hosts over 95% of established roped climbs.


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall : Photo
By: 20 kN When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Note that some of the grades and technical info on this map is incorrect.


Location: Hawaii
By: 20 kN When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: There is no development there mostly due to a lack of rock. If you are a serious climber, the Big Island is not the place for you.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Mount Garfield : Infinite Bliss (5.10c R)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: what happened?


Location: Leonard Z : Moonlight Buttress : Photo
By: 20 kN When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Careful ascending a fixed line with the rope running over sharp sandstone there. because there is some distance between the anchor and the end of the cliff (15' it looks like) the rope will stretch and bob around while the climber is ascending it. The sandstone will cut through the rope and it could kill your partner. you have to be super aware of that stuff. Some people put duck tape on the rope and rock where it's unavoidable, and the leader should be standing right next to the rope ensuring i... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Mount Garfield : Infinite Bliss (5.10c R)
By: 20 kN When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: GPS coordinates for the "parking lot."

N47.54604
W121.52151
Elevation: 1174'


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief
By: 20 kN When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Parking area GPS coordinates:

N39.24959
W120.19069


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall : Submarine Driver (5.11a)
By: 20 kN When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: It is not the Red Tower of Pain, that is left of this line. This line shares the anchors with Ambulance Driver and starts immediately to the left of Ambulance Driver. It is literally just 3' left of Ambulance Driver. Red Tower of Pain is a steep line that starts up some overhanging choss which leads up to a vertical arette.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11c)
By: 20 kN When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: WARNING:

I climbed this line today and noticed a serious safety issue with the fixed quickdraws. All of the fixed draws have aluminum biners and all of the biners have warn groves in the basket. The penetration range is from 25-40%. Keep in mind that the sharp edges produced in these biners can cut your rope in half if you fall and get a hard catch. Even if you do not get a hard catch, you can still get a core shot from warn biners. It has happened in a number of different areas, most notably t... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11c)
By: 20 kN When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: WARNING:

All of the fixed draws have aluminum biners and all of the biners have warn groves in the basket. The grove penetration ranges from 25% to 40%. Keep in mind that the sharp edges produced by the groves in these biners can cut your rope in half if you fall and get a hard catch. Even if you do not get a hard catch, you can still get a core shot from warn biners. It has happened in a number of different areas; most notably the RRG. Do not underestimate the danger presented by exc... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Officer Friendly (5.11c)
By: 20 kN When: Jul 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: CAUTION:

The second and third bolts on this route are in need of replacement. One of them is severely bent and both of them have been drawn out of the rock excessively. Keep in mind that if you fall on one of these bolts and they fail, you are going to take a free fall onto the slab. So just keep that in mind when climbing the route.


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