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It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo


Member Since: Feb 15, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact 1Eric Rhicard


Point Rank: # 38
Total Points: 8,583
Last Year: 164
Last 30 Days: 6
149 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has 1Eric Rhicard been climbing?










Contributions


All 3878 | Routes 438 | Areas 36 | Photos 532 | Page Improvements | Comments 1003 | Posts 844 | Stars 955 | Ratings 70
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : La Diablita (5.10d)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Bolts replaced today with ASCA bolts and hangers after seeing rusting of the bolts and nuts on this climb up a water stain. One of the bolts looked brand new. I thought it must have been stainless so I pulled off the hanger to check the stud. The stud itself was rusty despite appearance of it being a brand new bolt and hanger. Probably still good for a lot years but I had everything needed to bring it up to date and did.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : No Hope Without Dope (5.7)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: I never saw this variation.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Feed The Sweed (5.8)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: First pitch is really good and the last two are worth doing as it reminded me of Sheepshead. Good for the moderate team. If you know how to jam the finish is not the crux.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Sweet Pea (5.5)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Never found this route. I wasn't really looking for it but I think I found all the others. It needs a better location description now that there is another route to the left. There is a set of chain anchors at the top of a left facing corner weakness.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Wow, Stieger types and in less than 20 minutes it has been done. Thanks John and John. This should reduce the chance of lowering off accidents.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Armed Robbery (5.11)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the last two Original bolts on this climb with 1/2 inch ASCA bolts right after Aleix took a 20 footer on to the top one. So little rust and almost no damage convinces me they would have been good for a lot longer.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Sentenced To Hang (5.12b)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: New ASCA anchor bolts and the last two original bolts have been replaced with 1/2 inch Rawl 5 piece bolts from the ASCA. The quicklinks and mussys need to be moved down to the new anchor. I didn't have a crescent wrench to loosen the quicklinks on the mussys.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Family Affair (5.10b/c)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LOWER OFF THIS ROUTE IF YOU DO IT AS A SINGLE PITCH. HAVE YOUR PARTNER FOLLOW IT IF YOU DO IT IN ONE PITCH. A 70M RAPPEL CAN BE DONE BUT IS JUST BARELY LONG ENOUGH. YOU CAN ALSO RAP TO THE TOP OF MOMS ROCK AND RAP AGAIN.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING. 70M ROPE NEEDED!!! IF YOU DO THIS ROUTE WITH THE NEW LINK-UP A 70M JUST BARELY REACHES THE GROUND. IN FACT, THE BELAYER MAY NEED TO MOVE UP THE HILL. YOU CAN ALSO RAP TO THE TOP OF MOMS ROCK THEN TO THE GROUND.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : The Gallery
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Ever since the parking lot was enlarged to the west side or the highway the everyone head out to the top of Beaver Wall and North Fin. They scramble all over the place. Anything that is not fixed in a solid way will disappear. Easily reached anchors with lower off carabiners are prime targets for people who need a key holder. I am not saying a climber didn't snag the thing but suggesting that anything not locked down has a chance of disappearing.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unknown (Left of I Been Rob... (5.10+)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: I believe the bolt was upgraded as the old bolt and hanger were mixed metals (stainless/non-stainless). Rock quality may account for how it ended up lower so it could be more easily clipped. Hmmm, what a coincidence eh Jimbo. Just saying what I believe happened.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : Photo
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: EFR=Eric F...ing Recycles!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Ecstatic Electricity (5.12-)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: A few years go by, I get on this again, and I add a star as I enjoyed it the last two times I did it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Hey Charles, I wasn't certain that they were sleeve bolts, that was a guess. I have looked at and placed just about every style of bolts you can find over the years so I can tell by looking at a bolt stud if it is 5/16ths or 3/8th. I can also tell if a buttonhead is a 1/4 inch or a 5/16ths. Unfortunately I cannot tell if a bolt is a self drive, a rawl 5 piece, or a taper bolt. These can only be discerned by unscrewing them.

I am working with Erik Murdock on this problem of identifying thes... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Photo
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Way to go everyone. Nice work on the erosion control! I hope you got some new routes done and got up some of the things you really wanted to do. I had hoped to get up there but I got sick then back issues then I had to catch up on work. Thanks for the considerable efforts. The gate seems like a great step toward good climber rancher relations. Next year the elk steaks will be thick and large!



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Just shows how a really crappy bolt can be good enough at times. Unfortunately we cannot tell this by looking at them so we can make the choice to climb past them or not.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: The bolts on this route have been pulled with a crowbar (this is a bad sign) and replaced with ASCA bolts and hangers.

Jimbo and I added a sport link-up that leads left away the original trad finish which went up the crack corner system. The link-up ends on Family Affair. We also did a direct start that is better than the original. Now the great bottom half can be climbed and the not so great trad finish can be avoided. The link up is easier, 10a or so and it is super airy.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Lugee Head (5.11)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: This route is not a slab route, it is a slightly off veritical face climb. It has lots of small slopers and tough moves. In the harder range of 5.11. Probably easier 5.11 if you are over 5.8 tall.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Mar 1, 2014

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Comments: Hey Alex, I wish I had seen it pre-edit. No worries. It is hard to include a wink and a chuckle on an internet post. You have done enough around here to realize I give almost everything I have ever climbed at least one star. I didn't realize Jbak had given it two stars as I thought you had just posted it. So I would like to redirect my comment toward Jbak.

Jbak likes pulling on razorblades and eating them.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: This route appears to have 5/16th sleeve bolts and thus they need to be replaced. I also would be careful on the upper trad section as there is a bit of dirt and gravel on the ledges.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: I think it is funny you give it two stars Alex! It is the "worst route on the Beaver Wall." The worst route on this wall is still (good), which is what two stars represent on MP. You have my problem. You like climbing, everything.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Arizona Flyways (5.11b/c)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: A little silicone caulk from any harware store works well too.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Arizona Flyways (5.11b/c)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: The "loose hangers" might be "loose" because the bolts used to put them in might have been Rawl 5 Piece bolts. You can tell if that is what they are because there will not be a threaded stud with a nut on it. What you will see is a hex head bolt holding the hanger on. These are fine unless you can actually turn the bolt itself.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: This relates to the condition report posted a bout a loose bolt. Studs almost always wiggle as the hole is a bit bigger than the stud. The Beauty is that the more you pull on the stud the tighter it gets.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X)
By: 1Eric Rhicard When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Did this route in the seventies. I had been climbing for about two years. Paul Muell (SP) told me it was safe and not too hard. Scared the crap out of myself and I never much cared for Paul after he sandbagged me like that. It made me much more cautious about what I climbed in the needles.


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