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 ADVANCED
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008


Member Since: Mar 31, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Dylan B.


Point Rank: # 1,986
Total Points: 283
Last Year: 223
Last 30 Days: 1
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dylan B. been climbing?










Contributions


All 515 | Routes 1 | Areas 5 | Photos 36 | Page Improvments | Comments 18 | Posts 400 | Stars 36 | Ratings 19

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Schizophrenia (5.11+)
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This route is really ready for a rebolting effort. The bottom four bolts are all very questionable. The first is a rusty old thing that's jammed in an upside down position. The second and fourth are both spinners. The third is positioned so the biner on your draw is leveraged over an edge. There's another spinner up much higher.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Phallus in Wonderland (5.6)
By: Dylan B. When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: There's a lot of really broken up rock on this route right now, including some loose boulders about the size of a bowling ball. Use caution when climbing!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Dihedral (5.5)
By: Dylan B. When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: I reslung the fixed #1 Camalot with new cordalette yesterday. Should be good for the rest of the summer, anyhow.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Photo
By: Dylan B. When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: When I downloaded this map to print, it was pretty unreadable. So I used the info from this map and made another that I posted below that is more legible and includes more of the trails in the park.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Dylan B. When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: The ghost of Tom Joad is haunting that truck.


Location: VT
By: Dylan B. When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone explored the area around White Rocks for bouldering? I would expect there might be something off the Hartsboro Road or Ice Beds Road.


Location: MI : Munising : Grand Portal Point : Snow Cone (WI4) : Photo
By: Dylan B. When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: Nothing is more awesome than Lake Superior in the winter.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12c/d R)
By: Dylan B. When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: The 1978 Swartling guide lists Bagatelle at F10C (5.10+), and Phlogiston at F11 (5.11). Just goes to show how ratings have drifted over time.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Phallus in Wonderland (5.6)
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: It's be nice if there were quicklinks and/or chains on the bolts at the end of the first pitch.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: The anchors on Blinded by Lust are east to access from the top and make an easy rappel. There's also a 4th class, walk-off at the north end. The area doesn't need anchors for the trad climbs.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Crack left of Leftwing (5.4)
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: After topping out the crack, you can climb another 25 feet up to the anchors of Leftwing and lower from the chains.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Nut Job (5.9+)
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: The nut is still only finger-tight. Next person to climb this, please bring a wrench and tighten it up.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Deutschlander Wall
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: Several years ago I climbed (TR) something on this wall that was pretty moderate. Probably 5.9-5.10+. So there's something here for the lesser amongst us.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Whiskey a Go-Go (5.13a)
By: Dylan B. When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Whisky isn't the left-most line on Y-Crack wall anymore. There are at least three bolted lines to the left of it.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Coyote Tower : Foreplay (5.6)
By: Dylan B. When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: In addition to the one bolt, there are two pitons.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Photo
By: Dylan B. When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: This is the face of Coyote Tower to the left of Hydroponics. I think it's listed as "Foreplay" on MP.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Baker Street (5.10d)
By: Dylan B. When: May 8, 2007

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Comments: Fabulous line, but probably not a 10d. It's similar in style to Flake Route, but not as pumpy, nor as sustained. No particularly difficult moves, solid crimps on a slightly forward leaning face.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Dancing Madly Backwards (5.10b PG13)
By: Dylan B. When: Apr 29, 2006

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Comments: A second hold has been broken off of this climb this spring (the first was freshly broken last spring). There are now two, bright clean spots on the first ten feet of the ascent. It doesn't really effect the climb, sinde the bottom is so simple anyhow; but it's a reminder to folks not to climb on wet sandstone early in the spring.