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Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008


Member Since: Mar 31, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Dylan B.
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Point Rank: # 1,616
Total Points: 406
Last Year: 130
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 887 | Routes 1 | Areas 5 | Photos 58 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 28 | Posts 718 | Stars 57 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Big Gully : Look Before You Leak (5.7)
By: Dylan B. When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Bolted anchor has been added.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Parking Lot : Chicken Bone (5.7+)
By: Dylan B. When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: TR'ed this yesterday with a 25 lb. pack on to top out at the end of the day; made it pretty strenuous. Lots of fun, though.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Dick and Jeanie (5.11c)
By: Dylan B. When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: "Perhaps the best bolted 5.11 in Wisconsin."

Really? A two-star route? How about the four-star Red Recollection at Qual Wall? Or the three-star Now or Never? Or the lovely, long Schizophrenia? Arguably this is the best bolted 5.11 at Neceedah, but not in Wisconsin.

I liked this climb, but the breathless hyperbole is over the top.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Shovel Point : Dance of the Sugar-Plump Fa... (5.8) : Photo
By: Dylan B. When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: I hate those things. Aside from being ugly, I have an irrational terror that I'm going to trip over them and go tumbling over the edge of the cliff. It doesn't matter that they're 20 feet away from the cliff edge. They freak me out.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7) : Photo
By: Dylan B. When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: I always look like that when my belayer is waving a camera in my face at the top of a hard pitch.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier : The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone) (5.10c)
By: Dylan B. When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: WARNING -- according to one poster, the nuts and hangers have been removed from the anchor of this climb.

EDIT 2/19/15: Anchor hangers and nuts have supposedly been replaced.

See mountainproject.com/v/anchor-h...


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Turkey Shoot (5.8)
By: Dylan B. When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: This is now the SECOND bolted line from to the right of Crackin' Up. The first is a new 5.10 called Born to Crimp.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater
By: Dylan B. When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: The new bolted line--Born to Crimp--means that Turkey Shoot is no longer the leftmost bolted line on the slab in the amphitheater. The current descriptions are misleading because of this change. Yesterday we encountered a party that was about to head up a 5.11 that they thought was an 5.8, with too few draws to finish the line.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Red Nose Wall : White Wasp (5.11a)
By: Dylan B. When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: Why is this route listed as "sport"?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Beginners Demise (5.11a)
By: Dylan B. When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: This route has a growing amount of loose boulders and scree accumulating near the top, including a block the size of a Mac truck tire as the capstone to the arÍte where the hard climb finishes and the easy stuff begins. Be careful about knocking rocks onto your belayer.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Schizophrenia (5.11+)
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This route is really ready for a rebolting effort. The bottom four bolts are all very questionable. The first is a rusty old thing that's jammed in an upside down position. The second and fourth are both spinners. The third is positioned so the biner on your draw is leveraged over an edge. There's another spinner up much higher.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Phallus in Wonderland (5.6)
By: Dylan B. When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: There's a lot of really broken up rock on this route right now, including some loose boulders about the size of a bowling ball. Use caution when climbing!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Dihedral (5.5)
By: Dylan B. When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: I reslung the fixed #1 Camalot with new cordalette yesterday. Should be good for the rest of the summer, anyhow.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Photo
By: Dylan B. When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: When I downloaded this map to print, it was pretty unreadable. So I used the info from this map and made another that I posted below that is more legible and includes more of the trails in the park.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Dylan B. When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: The ghost of Tom Joad is haunting that truck.


Location: VT
By: Dylan B. When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone explored the area around White Rocks for bouldering? I would expect there might be something off the Hartsboro Road or Ice Beds Road.


Location: MI : Munising : Grand Portal Point : Snow Cone (WI4) : Photo
By: Dylan B. When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: Nothing is more awesome than Lake Superior in the winter.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12c/d R)
By: Dylan B. When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: The 1978 Swartling guide lists Bagatelle at F10C (5.10+), and Phlogiston at F11 (5.11). Just goes to show how ratings have drifted over time.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Phallus in Wonderland (5.6)
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: It's be nice if there were quicklinks and/or chains on the bolts at the end of the first pitch.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: The anchors on Blinded by Lust are east to access from the top and make an easy rappel. There's also a 4th class, walk-off at the north end. The area doesn't need anchors for the trad climbs.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Crack left of Leftwing (5.4)
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: After topping out the crack, you can climb another 25 feet up to the anchors of Leftwing and lower from the chains.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Nut Job (5.9+)
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: The nut is still only finger-tight. Next person to climb this, please bring a wrench and tighten it up.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Deutschlander Wall
By: Dylan B. When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: Several years ago I climbed (TR) something on this wall that was pretty moderate. Probably 5.9-5.10+. So there's something here for the lesser amongst us.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Whiskey a Go-Go (5.13a)
By: Dylan B. When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Whisky isn't the left-most line on Y-Crack wall anymore. There are at least three bolted lines to the left of it.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Coyote Tower : Foreplay (5.6)
By: Dylan B. When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: In addition to the one bolt, there are two pitons.


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