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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Y Crack (5.10a)
By: Marc Volland When: 2 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Do this climb with one 60 m. rope by escaping left (+/-30ft) via rap rings slung around a tree. Two rappel options from the tree: One, rap the 5.3 corner (great beginner pitch) to the ground 45ft. Two, rap the face down and top rope Royal Flush 5.10b/c 100ft.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Lurking Fear (5.7 C2) : Photo
By: Mr...Bosco When: 10 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: saw the pig first thing in the picture. Knew it was you Mike. :-)
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Zodiac (C3+) : Photo
By: Mr...Bosco When: 10 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Does look to be a lttle swolen. Least there is still a smile of sorts.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Photo
By: Kris Gorny When: 23 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an amazing shot, Andy. Did you have it printed in the poster format? Sure looks that way.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Bryan Gohn When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried this route on a weekday in spring thinking it wouldn't be crowded. Boy were we wrong. I think we were party #5 out of 6 on the wall. We maybe averaged a climbing:waiting ratio of 1:3, that's counting belaying as climbing time of course. The worst came when the party of 2 ahead of us passed the party of 3 ahead of them. Total clusterfuck ensued and me and my partner sat in our harnesses for over an hour before they got moving again. When the first party to the top began their rappel d... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Freerider (5.12d PG13)
By: bheller When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The Huber variation boulder problem did experience some breakage... a large breadloaf like sloper broke off. It is probably solid v7 now. It can still be done, its just it may require a very commiting dyno and not offer a clipping stance before you soar. The Teflon corner is a water polished dihedral that requires crazy palm stemming and body english. Don't be afraid of it- once I chalked my palms REALLY well, I freed it right off... I did feel like I was going to fall the whole time though. I r... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : Central Corner (5.10a)
By: Christopher Jones When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route, been on it several times and it never gets old.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Cell One {dont know real na... : Far and Away (5.13a)
By: Caleb Hansen When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: amazing rock, amazing climbing. Last spring new beta eliminating v7 throw was discovered. 12b was what McNasty suggested with the new beta, i agree.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Bouldering : Cave Direct (V6)
By: j.jaeger When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Tom.
The dab allowance was originally mentioned Bennigfield's guidebook, and seems to be consensus with ascentionists. I was eventually able to send this rig without the dab with an insane amount of try-hard.
To not dab, in addition to climbing it from the slightly lower start and broken parts of this climb as of summer '09, would make this rig harder than most 9s in RMNP.
Just sayin'....
As far as I know, this climb has never been done from the lowest left start from the left-f... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Darren Snipes When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I think that this is more LVABS than anything I've done.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Orange Roughy Boulder : Orange Roughy (V6)
By: Snake Ferguson When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't wait to send the sitstart of this interesting problem. Thanks to Terry and Dale for the beta!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Bosier Parsons When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure, but I think that Stewart's comment about Ed aid-soloing the route was also written in the context of previous comments about how good the gear is the whole way - definitely does not deserve an R rating.
As a local Springs climber, I enjoy hearing and reading the historical radness that was taking place on a seemingly daily basis by the aforementioned group of hardmen. It's often inspirational, especially when puckering on loose, runout Garden sandstone!
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Buffalo Boulder : Wrestling With A Gerbil (V0)
By: Snake Ferguson When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed. Both (humping) the buffalo and gerbil spat me off earlier...
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock
By: Buff Johnson When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: In light of "usual depiction", this is Elephant Rock in Pine (now called "Pine Grove"); the Sphinx is just one part of it; the block on the upper right if looking at it from Pine/Roadway up coming from Pine.
Maybe due to Boulder's already existence of an Elephant Rock as for some reason of clarity for Boulder-ites to tour'on down here, this formation got tagged with a route name.
(No, "Sphinx Park" refers to the natural occurrence of everything in the area, also including t... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5+ PG13)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: oh, in that case...right on!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Chair Rocks : ... : Toot Suit aka Toot Suite (5.11-)
By: Bill Duncan When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Deaun is correct. The name since the '70s was Toot Suite, I believe.
Short, just a few moves, but fun. I watched Steve Stubblefield solo it once.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5+ PG13)
By: sweatpants When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Totally f***ing with you bro! I wouldn't take most of what I say very seriously.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : South Crack (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Tom Bath When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: RAD!!!!!!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Standard Route (5.11- R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely easy to rap with a single 60m, huge thanks to Kevin for the shiny new hardware. Also, the "11-" var. on P3 felt hard, but is very safe.
-Scott
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Far Reaches (5.12c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar pitch, it's all just barely there. Definitely a tough lead, but the gear is there, and it's good.
-Scott
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5+ PG13)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gee, I guess I didn't realize commenting on a sweet boulder problem proj at the lake (comparing it to one of the best places to boulder in the world) would be so unacceptable.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5+ PG13)
By: sweatpants When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: F*** Bishop... This is Devils Lake sir!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Rising Crescendo (5.11c/d R)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve, your description leaves out the whole start of the route. The route starts in the Turf Spreader chimney, then traverses out below the TS roof for a spicy pitch to link into the start you describe. This second pitch if taken all the way to the 1st belay of Center route is full value and challenging as you cannot see your belayer for over 150 feet of climbing and you are traversing above sometimes marginal protection (11b R). You can easily break it up into two pitches with the first par... more >>
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Location: SD : Meat Packing Plant : Settler's Rock (a.k.a., Veg... : Mother of God Boulder (V3)
By: Snake Ferguson When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can someone post a pic or two? I've sent the problems on The Vegan and Store Boulder but am curious about the names/ratings of any of the other climbs on M Hill (Cowboy Hill). Any new info would be greatly appreciated!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Rising Crescendo (5.11c/d R)
By: slim When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one is high on my list. It looks like you could start it down by the first (chimney) pitch of Turfspreader, and head up left to meet up with your described first pitch. The thin crack that goes left from Center Route to Fender dihedral looks pretty cool.
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