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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : The Road (WI3 M4)
By: Leo Paik When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice find, Ben and Eric! Thanks! 11/22/9 the conditions are bit different. Not much melting it looks like up there, it's cold, brrr. P1 & P3 as depicted above are basically buried in snow. With loose rock, snow over ice, we belayed the whole bugger, 7 pitches. P5 felt like the crux. Also, not sure how it was supposed to exit, but we followed footprints to the left and finished on a chimney 5.6 or M4. Also, the approach felt like 5 miles, the descent felt like 7.5 miles, count on an aerobic... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge
By: Phil Magistro When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Took a hike up there today to climb and check things out. We posted a short trip report with Glacier Gorge ice conditions photos here.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon
By: Pete J. Lardy When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route is still in as of Nov. 10. Next time I would end the first pitch at the three pins 30'-40' below the 2nd pitch crux. This makes for a better anchor and belay location. Good ice pro (screws) at the crux, limited elsewhere.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: John Maguire When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The torso sized block is still there and still ready to go. It's especially dangerous because the rope runs right on top of it when you clip the bolts before and after. I ended up bailing on the route at the thought of not wanting to kill my belayer. I would have been more than happy to try to clean it, but there were several parties climbing on the area directly underneath the route and it was far too risky. As it stands, I wouldn't feel comfortable belaying anyone up or climbing this route mys... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4)
By: Scott Matz When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Conditions on Alexander's is thin yet. We only used 3 ice screws at the most. There was patches of soft snow in all pitches. Ice is forming quite well, but more rock than ice.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of Nov 7th 2009 the fixed gear could use a little maintenance. Four bolts had loose hangers (spinners). The bolt on the crux of pitch one, the first bolt above the anchors for pitch one, and the two bolts exiting the dihedral. I didn’t have a wrench (maybe I should start bringing one), so I left them how I found them.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Cottonwood Creek (Sherman t... : Sherman Climb (WI4)
By: clay meier When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a friend head down there today. Judging from pictures the third pitch is in but still a little dicey (November 1, 09).
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Cottonwood Creek (Sherman t... : Sherman Climb (WI4)
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the first two pitches yesterday. Not much ice. The third pitch pillar needs about a month.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : High H20 (5.10a/b)
By: PRRose When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both of the anchor bolts could be wiggled in their holes.
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : First Blood (5.8)
By: E Johnson When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 6th bolt jiggles in the rock and the hanger flutters in the breeze (as of yesterday).
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Otto's Ladder (5.7 PG13)
By: mxq When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just checked out the pipe route.... Wonder what individual decided that it would be cool to leave blue webbing and thread the rappel rope directly through it.... Noticable burn marks on the webbing.... How much does a rap ring cost? Replaced top sling with orangish webbing and a rap ring....
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
By: goatboywonder When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a pair of prescription glasses during the approach to Conads. Left them at the TH under the sign.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Total Abandon is in good shape and likely to get better over the next few days with warmer temps. Great route. Only two really good pitches, but those two are excellent. See http://themountainworld.blogspot.com for photos from October 15.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge
By: OZONE When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ice forming but nothing protectable yet.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Cable Route (5.4)
By: EvAnWard When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Planning on climbing the route in about a week 10/17. Anyone been up it recently? What shape is it in? Thanks.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Cracker Jack (5.9)
By: Josh When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hanger is still missing from bolt #5, although as someone else noted earlier, it's past the crux on fairly moderate terrain. Still, if this crack route is already bolted, it might as well be safely so. I wish I had known ahead of time to try to replace. Doubt I'll get back there to do so soon, so I hope someone else can.
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Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : Butcher Knife
By: Dustin B When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: October/09- Word has it that the bolt anchors atop the 'butcherknife crack' are gone, as is the boulder that they were attached to.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Bouldering : Little Devil (V11 X)
By: David Aguasca When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Heads up: Little Devil is closed for the season because of raptor nesting on the summit.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon
By: Jamie Pierce When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route is in reasonably good shape with thin sections on first and second pitch, but overall I've seen much worse early season (or nothing) for these routes. That said-it is still a fully mixed route.
I took care to be delicate and hooked things when I could to preserve ice for everyone. Cracks were open for pro, used several nuts and BD #0.5, 0.75, 1, 2 and used my 3 once to beef up anchor top of pitch 2. Took minor iron for thin cracks, didn't need them. Stubby screws are strongly e... more >>
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : The School Yard : Been Caught Stealin' (5.9-)
By: justin ayer When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Made use of that new lower anchor. Very enjoyable climbing! Would love to find 10 pitches of rock just like it. Thanks!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Moby Grape (5.7)
By: Barbara Stevens When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: September 27, 2009
Yesterday at Moby Grape the very loose boulders (2) in the middle of the route were pulled off...THANKS to Rich! Much safer....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Moby Grape (5.7)
By: Barbara Stevens When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: September 13, 2009
Led Moby Grape today...have done this route quite a few times, however, in the middle of the route there is a large boulder in the crack that is very loose...BE VERY CAREFUL...it really needs to be pulled off for safety reasons...we would have today but too many people around.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side
By: jon dickey When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOST GEAR: Found a bunch of gear near the tree on the road side of the tyrolean. It was hanging in a tree and it was definitely not stashed. I picked it up so a fisherman wouldn't walk off with it. Identify it and I'm happy to get it back to you.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Bottom Side Down (5.10d)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: About 2/3 of the way up, in the middle of the slabs is a loose block. It is the obvious big jug. It sounded hollow, but didn't shift a lot. Be careful!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hey Good Lookin' (5.11d)
By: Ben Ingman When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I broke a hold right above the 1st bolt on this route yesterday, which was probably the hold that most people clipped from. This certainly doesn't make the route any harder, I just wanted to get word out so people don't freak and fall when they find their usual clipping hold is gone. Be safe!
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