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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Hill's Route 2 (5.6 PG13)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris, You mentioned Kline seeming to start the route on the right side of the buttress. The crack there is quite attractive for a ways (one pitch?). On a different day and on the way to different route, I noticed one can hike for a few minutes SE of the buttress to get a better look at the terrain between the top of the crack and the top of the buttress. Some study with binoculars might inspire.
The description has been updated based on my partner's recollection (Dean Kuethe).
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Procrastination (5.8 R)
By: Chris Wenker When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In answer to George's request for information on the left, 'standard' exit pitches: (See also this Photo.)
Pushing the top of P7 (following the gully, not the 5.8 arete to the right) as high as possible allows you to belay on the Class 3 ground just under the left-facing corner with the roof on P8.
Schein says that P8 traverses left under the roof and then up to a point above the roof (to the Speedbump ledge, I guess). We were able to link P8 and P9 by heading farther left once past th... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Standard S Route (5.6)
By: Paul Davidson When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Welcome Reed !
Thanks for posting the historical info.
Please continue...
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Standard S Route (5.6)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave Hammack and I did either this route or the Hill route about 1959 or 1960. We have been credited with doing the first route on the Shield but I believe that Dick Ingram of NMSU (physics professor and writer of the original Organ Mountain Guide) did it before us. We heard that this party had gotten benighted so we got started very early and were on the rock around 7:30 am. We pushed extremely fast since we didn't want to spend the night and knew there had to be some hard work higher up. We go... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this over Christmas vacation in 1970 or thereabouts with Leland Davis and Clay Goldberg. Decided that it really was cold when we realized that snot froze immediately on our gloves. Exciting part was that there was a herd of mountain sheep (now extinct I believe in the Sandias) ahead of us and the alpha ram was not happy. We were roped up and I was going over the only tricky part (it was full of snow) and the ram made a mock charge (and I dropped about 10 feet - I wasn't drawing to his bluff ... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My son Charlie hauled me up this on 8 September 2009 as a 50th anniversary climb. Dave Hammack (79 years)had hoped to watch us do it but he had hip operation planned for following Tuesday. Charlie spent 5 weeks getting me in shape. Hadn't done the climb since 1971. I wasn't much help in route finding (he led every pitch) and we wound up in 5.8 and higher when we didn't want to and had 10 hours on the rock.Gave up on trying to find the 3rd class descent and followed cairns down rappel gully. Got ... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "X" would appear to be the penultimate dihedral on Kline's and Hill's "Route 6," approached by traversing in on the ledge from the right. Although I have not been up there to climb it.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Hill's Route 2 (5.6 PG13)
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also named "Route 2" in Kline's 1970 guidebook. It looks like Hill copied his first 9 routes on the Shield straight out of Kline.
Kline called Route 2 "Class 5, hard." Route 6 and Procrastination were the only other "hard" routes on the Shield in Kline's guide, if that helps. Who knows where Hill got his ratings?
It's hard to tell in my copy, but Klines photo topo seems to place the start of Route 2/3 on the right side of the buttress (but some of Kline's photo topos may be slightly inaccur... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, John. Sounds like the conditions depend some on the current activity level. I'll give it a go one of these days.
An informational note about descending the Knife Edge: Of course there are the merits of free-soloing. I have also been down this twice with folks not up for that. We hung a fully stretched-out 60 meter rope to get nearly down to The W and then another rope as a "hand line" across The W. When incorporating this into a descent of the Knife Edge, it can take several hours... more >>
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