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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Miscellaneous Scattered Rou... : Bug Bananas (5.7)
By: Thomas Holmes When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: a very hard to trust climb. had my belay had a helmet id of felt better about things. rocks came off the wall like rain and key foot holds are hollow and loose. the flack wont last long it sounds dull and hollow as your hands and feet hit the wall on your way up. so my consensus is the climb makes you think (will this hold?) rather than (how do i get up?)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Miscellaneous Scattered Rou... : Half Pint (5.7)
By: Thomas Holmes When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i agree the steep section has tricky pockets to spot and one key pocket that's very shallow/narrow for the right hand than followed by a big right hand reach with tippy toe feet. not as easy as youd think but fun none the less.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Bang Bang (5.11c)
By: Jeff Jones When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is another gem in this canyon that is superb. Perin and I went up there not knowing much about this climb. Thank goodness for the rest but since I have never climbed an .11c (even in the gym), I have to agree with Perin. You will use a variety of techniques to get up this quality line.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Bang Bang (5.11c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was told this line is .11c but it felt more like .11b to me. If you don't avail yourself of the obvious rest before the crux, it probably feels more like .11c.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Miscellaneous Scattered Rou... : Bug Bananas (5.7)
By: Christian "crisco" Burrell When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder why they didn't make this line go all the way to the top of the wall...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Miscellaneous Scattered Rou... : Warthog (5.10c)
By: Christian "crisco" Burrell When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An interesting little line and yes, the new sharp hold (hard to find if you don't know right where it's at) makes the crux a lot easier.
The bolting issue that Chris is referring to is that it would make more sense for the second and third bolts to be further right and, although it is unlikely, if you somehow fell at bolt number 2, you could easily deck. Also, a slightly longer chain for the anchor would be a good idea.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Miscellaneous Scattered Rou... : Bug Bananas (5.7)
By: Christopher Sorensen When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't feel that this was all that badly bolted, but it wasn't the best bolting job, that's for sure. The anchors looked ok to me and I wasn't worried using them.
However, that flake is completely hollow and the whole route relies on it. It will come off one day, and I feel bad for whoever is belaying the person who knocks it off, because that will go badly. Unfortunately, the whole route relies on this flake and wouldn't be anything without it. That said, I thought the route was fun and int... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Miscellaneous Scattered Rou... : Warthog (5.10c)
By: Christopher Sorensen When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Christian found a new hold that had a loose rock in it today, and I think that knocked this thing down to 10b or at least made it an eaiser 10c, but it's not 10d anymore if it was before. It makes the move to the second bolt significantly more doable.
This climb was a lot of fun, with a cool start and a great move to the second bolt, but it is really poorly bolted (sorry to whoever bolted it). The bolts are all in undesirable places, or in areas that don't allow for good climbing at all if you... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Tank Trap (5.10c)
By: Jeff Jones When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are just some routes that words can't describe. I am not an AF guru but this has to be one of the most unique climbs in the canyon. It is also one that I think I will climb each time I go there. Clipping the 4th bolt is very committing. Emotionally I just know I am going to hit the ground if I blow it even though logically I know it won't happen. Walt is right...there would be a line if more people cared to go there instead of Membrane.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Tanks For Nothing (5.7)
By: John Ross When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing view of Tank Cyn from the top of this route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Tanks For Nothing (5.7)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually took a fifteen footer on this guy when my foot slipped right before I was about to clip! Ok route but there are much better 5.7s around. Worth doing once if you're in the area.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Tank Trap (5.10c)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is rad!!! I don't think I've ever done so many dropknees and other funky body positioning on any route. Seemed stiff for .10c but man, what a route!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Two O'Clock Rock : Gunner (5.11b)
By: Christian "crisco" Burrell When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going to the right, while easier, just made me feel like I was off rough somehow. Going to the left didn't make me feel any better. Wish the line stayed like the first half.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Miscellaneous Scattered Rou... : Half Pint (5.7)
By: Christian "crisco" Burrell When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The steeper part took a minute. The holds had no chalk on them and the pockets were tough to spot.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Gemini (5.11c)
By: Christian "crisco" Burrell When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I was doing it wrong...I don't remember doing an "Iron Cross" move...a bit slippery but great to work on! Once your feet are above the roof, the difficulty eases considerably. (I will admit, I did not redpoint this yet. I worked it for a while and was able to do almost all the moves)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall
By: Christian "crisco" Burrell When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic Wall! Good shade...enjoy it now before the word gets out. The landings were really appreciated (thanks to whomever did all the work). But a better trail up the gully would be a good idea.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Tank Trap (5.10c)
By: Christian "crisco" Burrell When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Craziness! It looks like an easy finger-locking steep corner. The stemming put me in strange positions and the feet were either dirty or slippery. The bolts were close together on the easy parts and far apart in through the crux (weird). Altogether, it is fun as it is so unusual.
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