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Latest Photos

Photo Caption Location By Date
Julian's photo with dots for the Hero Traverse (red), Blind Assumption (Yellow), and the exit ledges (red).

Julian's photo with dots for the Hero Traverse (red), Blind Assumption (Yellow), and the exit ledges (red).

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Blind Assumption

Ken Trout

Nov 12, 2009

Nancy's second ice climb. 12/31/07 date stamp on photo is incorrect.

Nancy's second ice climb. 12/31/07 date stamp on photo is incorrect.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Silver Cascade Falls (WI2-3)

England

Nov 8, 2009

Bigwall soloing everything around. 12/31/2007. The date stamp on the photo is incorrect.

Bigwall soloing everything around. 12/31/2007. The date stamp on the photo is incorrect.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Silver Cascade Falls (WI2-3)

England

Nov 8, 2009

A car in the left Col driven off the summit by a suicidal teenager. He lived, believe it or not.

A car in the left Col driven off the summit by a suicidal teenager. He lived, believe it or not.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Y Couloir

England

Oct 4, 2009

September 30th, 2009 08:30 and she's in.

September 30th, 2009 08:30 and she's in.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Total Abandon

Jamie Pierce

Sep 30, 2009

Nancy working through the Hero's traverse.

Nancy working through the Hero's traverse.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : North Face of Pike's Peak

England

Sep 19, 2009

9-18-09 just before the fog rolled in.

9-18-09 just before the fog rolled in.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Y Couloir

England

Sep 19, 2009

Nancy fogged in on the Y-Col.

Nancy fogged in on the Y-Col.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Y Couloir

England

Sep 19, 2009

Latest Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon
By: Pete J. Lardy When: Nov 15, 2009

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Comments: Route is still in as of Nov. 10. Next time I would end the first pitch at the three pins 30'-40' below the 2nd pitch crux. This makes for a better anchor and belay location. Good ice pro (screws) at the crux, limited elsewhere.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : South East Face : Photo
By: jmath When: Nov 6, 2009

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Comments: I believe you are referring to the South Cirque, there are a couple of fine lines in there :), but only a couple, one by myself and Bogren 3 pitches we rated at about 5.9R. It's on the southeast side of the cirque with typical bomber Pike's Peak rock. There aren't any anchors as this is a walk off. We got this done in '01 or '02, can't remember. There are a couple of other routes lower in the cirque that are nice lines as well with toprope anchors, that have been done. Travos Nolan, et al... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: Total Abandon is in good shape and likely to get better over the next few days with warmer temps. Great route. Only two really good pitches, but those two are excellent. See http://themountainworld.blogspot.com for photos from October 15.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Blind Assumption
By: Jamie Pierce When: Oct 15, 2009

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Comments: Route is in well. Crux sections are well formed with nothing dripping. Overall, it's probably more mellow than years past since it's formed thicker. I suggest short screws as the quality of the ice was so good. Needed no pins, rock gear was minimal but possible, rack was fairly trimmed down. Largest piece I took was BD #2, full set of stoppers, and 6 screws.

Our traverse to its base was a well formed soft slab 30 cm deep sitting on well formed 3 MM Facets. This due to shallow snow... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : ... : Photo
By: Marc H When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: Yet another reason not to pave mountains.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: bigwallrog When: Oct 10, 2009

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Comments: Yep, this place is as well known as Cowboy's downtown or the local titty bar so deal w/it....

I found this place the first year I moved here. It was crowded then, and it's crowded now. Even if you were coming here for the first time, it's not too hard to find as there is usually 4 or 5 climbers cars parked on the road any day of the week or as England has said a van or two from the local guide service or the Fire Dept.

The lead only thing is in the crapper as well as even the Fire Dept. top ro... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Falls (WI2-3)
By: bigwallrog When: Oct 10, 2009

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Comments: WI2 is a stretch..... WI3 is fantasy. Two moves of poss WI2 at the top at best.

A fun place for laps, beginners, etc.

Very very crowded most days the are no less than 6 ropes hanging off this thing....

The upper left flow by the tree is a fun place to traverse L-R 'n' back
several times for max pump.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity
By: Jamie Pierce When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: Gillette Falls and its approach reside on private property that belong to Cripple Creek Water District and a landowner that doesn't want folks crossing his land, and it's his right to keep folks off. If conditions allow, find another way to gain access to these falls, but find out what is best prior to the long approach.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon
By: Jamie Pierce When: Sep 30, 2009

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Comments: Route is in reasonably good shape with thin sections on first and second pitch, but overall I've seen much worse early season (or nothing) for these routes. That said-it is still a fully mixed route.

I took care to be delicate and hooked things when I could to preserve ice for everyone. Cracks were open for pro, used several nuts and BD #0.5, 0.75, 1, 2 and used my 3 once to beef up anchor top of pitch 2. Took minor iron for thin cracks, didn't need them. Stubby screws are strongly e... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: England When: Sep 13, 2009

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Comments: Post detailed directions or not. Local guiding services are using the area heavily, as well as the Colorado Springs Fire Department, who at one point last winter put a sign on the trailhead closing the entire climb for their training purposes. Needless to say this did not go over well with the locals. The last time I did this climb winter (Jan. 2009) before it fell apart, by the time I left around 8:00 a.m. there were already a dozen parties at the climb. The circus has begun. :-(



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