Note: when showing ALL, new contributions are displayed in the order of Routes, Areas, Photos, and Comments
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Ghostrider (5.10c)
By: J. Albers When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Great info Nick, thanks.
On that note, does anyone have any opinion on how truck the bolts are on the 2nd pitch of No Country for Old Men? I think they are 5/16" pound ins with SMC hangers, circa 1989.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : Bony Fingers (5.11b R)
By: Nick Barczak When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Leave the stick clip at home. It's not necessary to reach the good placement after the first three bolts: just link 2 nuts together for extra reach. See the photo above of girth-hitched nuts.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Ghostrider (5.10c)
By: Nick Barczak When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: As stated above, definitely string pitches 2 and 3 together. It's not only more fun, but it skips an awkward belay. Also, the first pitch of the knob climbing has what looks like a 2-bolt belay after only about 50 feet (not indicated on the topo). Don't stop here, it's pointless. Also, thanks to anybody who was involved in bolt replacement on this route. The belay at the top of P1 currently sports a nice shiny bolt in place of the old junker; two good bolts now reside there.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Nimbus (5.10c PG13)
By: susan peplow When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: What do the kids say these days????? Suck it?
The route is not worth the hike. Crumbly rock, mediocre climbing and considering your feet could cut loose at any time you'll be paying attention to the fall factor.
Second pitch is kinda cool when you go from the lie back to the jamming and calling it any less than 10c would be a sandbag. The gear is good but difficult to get in and again, with the crumbly feet you'd better have your game on.
Lewis messed up the rap lengths as previously report... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Nimbus (5.10c PG13)
By: Russ Walling When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: I thought this route was kinda hunky. The rock is not very good (grainy) and the location and moves are just not that memorable. Very average to poor outing. There are much better routes to do in the Portal. I would not do it again.
That being said:
First pitch does have only 3 bolts. You can sling a flake or two, one at the start, and one just below the last bolt. Anchor is at two Mussy Hooks on a good stance. There are a couple of ankle breaker boulder problems mid pitch, so don't fall.... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : Bony Fingers (5.11b R)
By: Mike When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: What an incredible route! We did it in 2 pitches with a 60m rope and a little simul-climbing on P2.
The start is super thin but well protected. The runout section after the last bolt is sketchy but not as hard. However, you could deck from that point so have your lead-head on straight. Also, those of us that that are taller with a long reach can mitigate the runout somewhat by reaching up waaaaay high from the stance and slot a wire in the black rock at the start of the crack before commit... more >>
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