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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall : (04) Cow Flop Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: william thompson When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey,
This would be a shame to see the bolts in question to be chopped.These new bolts are in the correct location for the climb to be lead by the most natural line. The original bolts force the line to climb harder moves over a bulge that would put a hurt'in on ones ankles if one were to fall while making these moves. For what it is worth I feel like the line climbs better and more safely on the new bolts.
Yee ha and climb on!!!!!!
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall
By: bruno-cx When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I bolted numbers 5 and 6 in the late 90's for A girl friend. I was living and working in l.a. at the time.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Wild Hogs Wall (and cliffs ... : Johnny Can't Lead (5.7+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No problem, Steve, I moved the route over to this section, after talking with Jason we thought it fit a little better.
If you (or anyone else) has a better suggestion for a title for this section of Las Conchas.. on the meadow left of CC Wall, let me know.
Look forward to trying this new climb, sounds like a nice one.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Wild Hogs Wall (and cliffs ... : Johnny Can't Lead (5.7+)
By: Steve DiMarino When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route with a few cams and discovered that is was much more fun than the other easier stuff on Cattle Call so I went ahead and bolted it. The low first bolt seems stupid until you climb it. I had the new, not so confident, 5.7 or 5.8 leader in mind when I put it there. Otherwise, it would be a stick clip climb. I guess that is my apology for it.
Also, thanks to whoever moved this route info to the proper place.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall : (03) Bovine Inspiration (5.9)
By: Bryan T When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I give it a 10a if you go direct. Easier once you are on top of the bulge.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall : (04) Cow Flop Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I noticed last weekend, 9/20/09, that this variation now sports two bolts before merging left into (03) Bovine Inspiration. Seems I recall that happening before and the bolt(s) was chopped?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall : (06) Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Further complicating things, Rock Climbing: New Mexico lists a climb called 'Pie in Your Eye' as being in the location that Jason's photo and 'Jemez Rock' put 'Bovine Inspiration', and rates it 5.9. That book calls this line 'Unknown 4' and rates it 5.6.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : (02) Napoleon's Angst (5.10b) : Photo
By: Bryan T When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do people ever use thread lock on the bolts when they install them?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (04) Garden Wall (5.6)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm reminded of a "entertaining" event there once. We were climbing (05) Drive By Shooting when this group of middle school-aged kids walked by and one started saying, "look y'all, those climbers need ropes to climb that stuff but look at it, it's easy. I don't need a rope, watch this..." and the kid headed up the Garden Wall while being egged on by his friends, "yeah, man, show 'em how it's done!" The kid got higher and higher and was definitely well above the point of no return (no easy downclimbing... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (04) Garden Wall (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of the Cattle Call Wall sport climbs were all also bolted years after they had been climbed first, on TR if not on lead. Whether or not you or I approve of that from an ethical stance, it's now the most popular/crowded cliff in New Mexico in my estimation. 'The people' clearly appreciate having sport-bolted 5.6-5.8s at scenic Las Conchas; most of them don't know or don't care that someone climbed them w/out bolts back-in-the-day.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (04) Garden Wall (5.6)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's sort of a gray area in my opinion, Marc. And I don't think it speaks to the ethic of the day. My feeling on this was it's an entire wall and never was one route really identified as "the route" so yes, I took it upon myself to pick what looked like the best line (no doubt climbed before) and bolt protect it. I did ask around to see if I could identify an FA but that was not fruitful because of the vagueness of the actual route and fact that it had probably been soloed by high school ki... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Roadside Attraction Rock : (09) Crucible (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I'm not sure either Marc. What's up with that? I didn't hear a thing about it. Explain? Nature of the rock? Is the NMCRAG-donated anchor hardware still up there?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Roadside Attraction Rock : (09) Crucible (5.8)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Marc Beverly.
A new bolt is in at the bottom per request. So, you can do the harder start (left) or the easier start (right) and still clip.
I'm not sure why I had to go back and put in a second set of anchor clips after you guys replaced the anchor that was only a year or two old ?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Chilly Willy Wall : Donkey Show (5.10c)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another route that was retro bolted for the better. Great climbing.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (04) Garden Wall (5.6)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In a sense, it's good that this route got retro bolted (it was a trad lead and had been so for many years). More people do it now and it takes some pressure off the other nearby similar rated climbs. Perhaps its the ethic of the day and so maybe Forest will also be retro bolted and there will be another line that people will do more often.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (02) Flake Out (5.11b/c)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, a little history (and education) on the bolts and anchors:
The bolts are glue-ins and stronger than any expansion bolt at LC. The reason people were sketched out that the bolts were spinning is that you can't tighten glue-ins until the glue is dry. You have to go back and tighten them later. I wasn't able to get back right away and tighten them the next day.
As for the smaller links, they do hold 800 lbF each. They only need to hold body weight. Multiply that by two, that's 1600 lbF total. ... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall : (08) A La Verga (5.9)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't know where you guys are getting 5.9 on this ? I've never felt like it was harder than 5.8
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (04) Garden Wall (5.6) : Photo
By: Catherine Conner When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your Mom rocks. Very cool.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Roadside Attraction Rock : (09) Crucible (5.8)
By: Bryan T When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Orange hanger on the top right spins; Can't get it out or in. Tightened the others today.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall : (06) Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: Scott Beguin When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The real Pie In Your Eye ascends the diagonal leftward crack system to the right of this bolted route. It is a trad route and use to have two bolted anchors at the very top of the wall. I think they were chopped at some point.
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