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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : New Music (5.11+ R)
By: Jeff G. When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top roped the first pitch today. Excellent climbing on good stone. There is a good fixed pin and then two widely spaced bolts that take you to a good rap station to the left of Fat City's first belay. The two protection bolts are new and bomber. This would be a pretty hairy and runout lead.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Fascist Drill in the West (5.11b)
By: Jeff G. When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great pitch. Probably PG-13 not R. No additional bolts are needed. You need some composure but that is what makes it a great pitch of face climbing.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : ... : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did your belayer forget to tie in?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : High Plains Drifter (5.10b)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some great RP placements to be had on the .10b start! I can't believe people are saying this is PG-13, nonetheless R.
If you got up via Fat City, the .10b off the P1 belay warms you up for the .10b start to HPD.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : George's Tree (5.9)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Dusty in that I felt this route had multiple moves of 5.10a. the first pitch, particularly above the bolts, gets very strenuous and insecure, and there are points right below and just above Fang Ledge that are technical and challenging - the sort of moves that feel easier when seconding since you have the security of a toprope to let you commit to awkward/gymnastic body position.
This route could easily go in 3 pitches with a 70m rope. P1 to the belay shared with Osiris, a 70m... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: goatboywonder When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route. I felt that a 5.7 is a pretty fair grade. The first pitch is definitely old school climbing. Keep your back to the right wall for about 90% of the pitch, figure out how to heel-toe and you'll feel pretty secure. The crux pitch (3rd for us) was super nice. Well worth the hassle of the first pitch. The wall get pretty steep with a pair of prefect hand cracks.... mmmm, delicious.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Endless Crack (5.9)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that the variation that Tim mentions was harder than 5.7. I also thought it was deserving of a very serious rating. You're looking at a 50 footer down the slab if you blow it just before the overlap. I can't remember if you would hit the ground if you blew it there but it would be ugly in any case.
From the crack, I headed up and slightly left to a stance on the arete hoping to find some gear. There was none so I had to continue to the overlap.
If memory serves, this is called the FI... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Endless Crack (5.9)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On P1: Instead of heading over to the bolt after the crack ends, quest upwards on the face straight up. This leads to another overlap where you can get some gear. Keep going up, traverse left to a water groove where you can get a good #0.3 Camalot, and then reverse the traverse back right onto the face, and belay on the "big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block" above the mentioned slings at the end of Mission Impossible. A quick down lead will get you to the rap station.
This ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess by jug I meant the hold I could get all of my fat fingers in and lean back and shake out on right before the strenuous lieback begins. Yeah, you are probably right. I think you could place every piece somewhere.... And yes, I didn't place there I just kept going. So thats probably the best beta.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Phil, it's a little hard to know exactly where each of us is talking about (I don't recall a "jug" near the top, but what's a jug can be a matter of opinion). We probably placed a #2 Camalot in the same place and then went to the top, which didn't seem particularly run out. I think a small (thin fingers or something) piece could have been placed above the #2 Camalot, but it was hard (for me) climbing there and going up seemed the best strategy. Maybe the take away is a that it wou... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really? I popped a number #0.75 and a #2 off the jug, then moved around the corner on what felt would fit a small TCU but just kept going. I didn't place anything, but maybe I just have fat fingers.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With all due respect for the tips for thin gear, I put in a #2 and #3 Camalot near the top, through what seemed to be the crux. I put in some thin gear below but not in what I thought was "the business," i.e., right below the top.
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