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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Photo
By: Chris treggE When: 5 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is perhaps my favorite landscape shot on mp. I am so glad every time it comes up on the front page. Great shot, great memories of that place. Thanks for posting it Mike.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: Geir Hundal When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: be aware there is no gear for the first 15' or so of pitch 1 on 5.8 terrain. a safer alternative is to start on the bolted route immediately to the right of mystery, and then traverse left on to mystery after the 3rd bolt.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : The Climb Too Tough To Die (5.10a PG13)
By: Geir Hundal When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: A detailed topo for this climb is now available. You can download the topo using the following links:
http://www.geir.com/sheepshead%20w.pdf
http://www.geir.com/sheepshead%20w%20photoguide.pdf
The topo for this wall is still under development. If you see anything that needs to be corrected, or would like to see any changes, feel free to contact me through MP. Topos for many other Stronghold climbs can be found at http://www.geir.com/climbs.html.
Enjoy!
Geir
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second Geir's comment... the lower angle of this rock make it easy to find any number of ways to climb it... just dump a bunch of steel, pretty much at random, and some friction route will come out. I think the classic routes (say, mostly the ones that actually have names) are great and somewhat preserve the adventure character of the Stronghold, they are mixed and pretty natural lines. Now, by the precedent set by The Peacemaker, the new lines may be great fun (haven't climb them), but the ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: eMurdock wrote: The Sheepshead is like a vertical track. Lots of bolts and all fixed belays. At one time I was not a big fan of the development but now I just view it for what it is: a speed climbing venue. Where else can you climb so much on a big cliff in a stellar location with a super light rack and a really low risk level?
Eric,
I agree that the high number of heavily bolted routes on the Sheepshead do make it a speed climbing venue.
However, I personally dislike the proximity... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Steve Pulver When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Were the routes all done during daylight? 6 routes seems really impressive.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott has done 5 routes running down the descent, which is a very impressive record... We opted for the fixed line 'soft' style basically to save our knees and time to do more pitches. We were moving somewhat fast and steady, but not really rushing up to our limit. If the interest is only speed, there is a lot of room for improvement... In any case, yeah, agree, Sheepshead is an awesome playground for this kind of stuff... the big 8 is totally feasible...
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: eMurdock When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work Luis!! You sure Scott A hasn't climbed 6 or more routes. Seems like he may have, maybe not? Dean Brault and I did 3 routes in ~4 hours without simul-climbing (and running off the descent) about 5 or 6 years ago, so I can see how 8 would be possible with a fixed rappel. I remember Dean looking at me and shaking his head after I got up to the belay on the first pitch. My heart rate was up from climbing fast. He said I needed to climb faster. Dean was so smooth but I was pretty exhausted ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ... no simul-climbing at all, and actually, that is one of the main things we can do to make it faster. But I feel that I need to be a bit more familiar with the routes to do this.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! How much simul-climbing did you do?
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the past November 1st Nick Erhardt and I completed 6 climbs in a day: The Peacemaker, Absinthe of Mallet, Ides of Middlemarch, The Climb Too Tough to Die, Right of Stampede and Ewephoria, making 36 pitches... We did use a fixed line to rap down and it was great fun... I dare to say that at 8 climbs could be done with enough motivation and foot pain tolerance, but as it is for now, I think this is the current record of number of pitches in a day for this crag.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Shiloh When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definetly a good route - bring your slab climbing shoes.. Pitch one was the hardest... Pitch three was interesting - kind of run out above the bulge...imho and pitch four was the easiest...
Good Route, great new climbing friends, and awesome day!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Tradster When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 seems about 5.7+ or 5.8 and pros very well. A bit awkward, but not bad at all. The crux seems to me getting over the bulge on P 3, however, the final 'chimney' pitch seems awkward, to say the least. Finish the 'Too Tough to Die' exit. We did it in about 4 hours as we had to wait on another party ahead of us. Can easily be done in three hours or a bit less.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to ewe for staying up there for us. After the initial trail of P3 bolt line ends, she certainly guides the way to the anchors.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7) : Photo
By: Derek Anderson When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: was just out there for beanfest this weekend, and shes still stuck on that pitch, amazing that she doesnt get pumped after this long! :)
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Mt. Chaktar : Courage of the Fearless Cre... (5.9+ PG13)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, BenJamN, no pictures. The only camera in our group was over on Warpath that day! We only had Bob Kerry's topo to go by. With maybe a half hour study near the base, that was enough! But if someone has a photo of this side of Chaktar, I'd be happy to mark it with the route.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Mt. Chaktar : Courage of the Fearless Cre... (5.9+ PG13)
By: BenJamN When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pictures? sounds fun!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : The Climb Too Tough To Die (5.10a PG13)
By: Meghan When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...I have just confirmed that you cannot link pitches 3 & 4 with a 70m rope... In case anyone was wondering. There is, however, a good tree about 30 feet past the actual anchors to belay from with a huge ants' nest to sit in (red ants) if you are stupid enough to try. They were fairly benign for red ants. :-) FYI-- I took a single rack from #1 Metolius to #3 Camalot and used everything except the #1 Camalot and #4 Metolius. I definitely didn't sew up the route, but wa... more >>
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