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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Sinbad-Herbert (5.10d)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perfect Elbows? Sounds pretty slammer. You propose 5.8 then?
This climb can also be led just using the corner, without going into the perfect elbows crack on the left.
To begin the extension, or second pitch, there are two ways. From the anchor you can creep out right onto the face, over, up and back left a tad to the first lead bolt. A little spicy and poor rock quality.
A better choice is to just cruise up the crummy gully to the left then step right out onto the face next to the bolt. ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Labor of Love (5.10b PG13)
By: tallmark515 When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.9 for tall folks is fair, didn't seem like there were any "crux mantles 15 feet above bolts". I felt very secure on the easier climbing between bolts and also at the distinct crux with the bolt at my chest.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : The Line (5.9)
By: tallmark515 When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ... or in 1 pitch with a 70 meter rope and rap to the ground from the "Labor of Love" bolted anchor.
1st pitch is fantastic and features 2 distinct cruxes.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Central Wall : Roofer Madness (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 only.
Pretty damn hard for alleged .10c, I give it .10d as Supertopo suggests. Roof is definitely the crux, but the tricky moves don't end once you pull the roof, another 10-15 feet of .10c climbing will keep you on your toes.
Start out the route below the roof to the right and traverse into the bottom of the roof. An awkward corner brings you to a few under-clings and a flaring, okay hand jam in the roof that feels worse the more you work your body up over the roof. Make a tricky move out ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Tombstone Terror (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolted anchor that you traverse to out right is actually the Boothill anchor. The 'trad' way to do tombstone is to belay at the break, and then top out the second (and seldom done) pitch. But people use the boothill anchor for cragging convenience.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Tombstone Terror (5.10c)
By: ccmski When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone else think the anchors for this climb are in an awkward place?
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Pillar of Society (5.12a)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way to hard for me. Opening moves are doable though... and super fun.
Everything else seems to be sustained 5.11+ and 5.12.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Pop Bottle (5.7)
By: Bryan Duxbury When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When you get to the first ledge, there is a good crack for setting up a belay right underneath the start of the next pitch. You can find it by looking for the bolt. Otherwise, there are some pretty marginal blocks to set up on.
Making it to the first bolt on the second pitch is definitely scary, but in all actuality not that hard - there are tons of great hands and feet.
During P2, you'll reach a big, comfy ledge. This is where I expected the bolts to be, but they're actually at least 40 feet ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Fear No Evil (5.9)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts replaced by Mucci September 2009:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=96584>>>>>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Wall (5.5 PG13)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This gets a 5.7 in the guide book, which is probably correct if you find the easiest line. We got off route and ended up having to do 4 pitches - 3 at ~ 5.6/5.7 and 1 with a harder move (5.8? 5.9?). Anyways, we hit the harder stuff going straight up / right from the first belay. Go up and left above a fixed pin instead. Tricky route finding on this one, I would only recommend it for solid 5.7 leaders.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Hemorroids in Flight (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two old bolts have been removed and replaced with modern 3/8" bolts.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Fear No Evil (5.9)
By: brian chandler When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has been many, many years since I've climbed this route but, I remember it being a bold climb.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, I thought it was taken from the air! Haven't been up there for a few years. Have to get back!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Photo
By: Mike Morley When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Paul. I took it from the descent off of Hogwild heading back towards the campground.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot Mike! Where/how did you take it?
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