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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : "The Nipple" (V1-2)
By: Terry Kieck When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Down hill from the Aligator wall at old sandstone. I know you can see it from there if there are no leaves on the trees... 40 yards maybe?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : "The Nipple" (V1-2)
By: Paul Campbell When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know where the nipple even is? I have been to the Old so many damn times and I've never seen this boulder.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : "The Nipple" (V1-2)
By: Terry Kieck When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is also a boulder 30 yards east of the nipple that has 5 or 6 problems.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Gargantua (5.10b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't read this if you are interested in an on-sight.
If you look at Nathan E's photo sequence, and replace his heel hook with a toe, then rock onto that toe (move your whole body and your hands much further right), then its a tenish move. No way I climb 5.12.
In 1970 this was considered an F9 !
I think the difficulty is that most people do not see this on-sight (at least I didn't), and tackling it straight on is harder by about the degree suggested here.
Tarantula is a much more natural... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Gargantua (5.10b)
By: Tom Petraitis When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe we "should" skip it, but no-one I've climbed with has that much sense! The roof presents an impressive and un-ignorable challenge. As for the knee-lever solution, I think everyone tried that after all else had failed, and that doesn't seem to work much better. I'm telling you: EIGHT guys tried hard, guys that do fine on most 10s and some 11s, even crazy bouldery ones. Ratings should reflect consensus. And this route, worthy or unworthy as it may be, doesn't have it.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Burt Lindquist When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ttsskk ttsskkk. Forbidden fruit is always the yummyist isn't it...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Remo When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Chris this route is pretty short. There is one distinct crux(the 5.12 move) and the rest is fairly easy. Super fun though.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Chris treggE When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm, the climb is shorter than I would have imagined. Good perspective Remo.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Peter Arndt When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey! Isn't New Sandstone....? Never Mind.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Nick, nice lead. I didn't know you were leading 5.12 back in the 80's.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Wet Paper Bag (5.10c)
By: John W. Knoernschild When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route. Nothing else like it at DL.
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