Mountain Project - Forum Messages

Post re: Left Gear at Beaver Wall, Please Return...!

2009-11-28T03:05:33-06:00

Submitted By: Adam Block
Location: Arizona & New Mexico

If you have Dave's gear and you return it to him in good shape I will buy you a 6 pack of your choice from Trader Joe's!

Post re: Kansas Lake Property, Will Trade for Trad Gear, Bouldering Pad, GriGri or?

2009-11-28T03:03:41-06:00

Submitted By: Adam Block
Location: For Sale / Wanted

The rubies went fast but that was an INSANE deal, what I'm hoping for is that somebody will see the value in my trades. Like if I offered Central Park to you for a full trad rack you would see the value in it even if you had no use for it. Mostly, just looking for people that have more use for what I've got than what they've got but I guess that's how trading works.

As for ex girlfriends (it's been awhile) here are you're options in chronological order:

1) Last one I won't speak about on here out of respect but that was like 15 months ago.

2) INSANELY hot and enough to satisfy 10 men in the bedroom but getting the truth out of her would be like getting out a nut that stopped a 100 foot lead fall. She lives in Portland.

3) A doctor with her own clothing line, she now has a baby with some guy, no clue where she lives, either Brooklyn, Tucson or Berkley would be my best guess.

4) A message therapist that can climb 5.12s and rides her bike 1,000 plus miles a month for training, super sweet but so sensitive she would cry when a breeze hit her wrong. Also wouldn't allow spanking or hair pulling.

5) My ex wife, I'm not going into details, if you want her let me know, she's feisty but she does have 36Ds so that's gotta be worth something.

6) Reiki master yoga instructor living in either Miami or Phoenix, you would never get tired of looking at her, I have nothing bad to say about her now that I think about it. If I hadn't been so young we may have worked, we tried for 6 years all the same.

There are others, most have education poisoning, at least a masters if not two or a phd. There was a time I thought that was great however I seem to do better with the high school dropouts as they seem to have common sense, problem solving skills and, worry for what others think of them and are equals to my underachieving abilities.

PM with the trade details.

Post re: What does your Woody look like???

2009-11-28T01:55:29-06:00

Submitted By: koreo
Location: General Climbing

Woodchuck ATC wrote:

Thanks koreo. I pride myself in how poor my carpentership is. But it works. You should see the OTHER side with the ice climbing section on it, but that's another category I believe.

For real man. I wish I had a woody like that. Of course i'd need a yard first, and a little more disposable income...yeah i'll stick to my fingerboard and the gym for now.

Post re: Acceptable cord diameter for anchors

2009-11-28T00:33:05-06:00

Submitted By: Jason Partin
Location: General Climbing

6, 7, or 8 mm... most seem to use 7mm nylon.

But, has anyone EVER heard of an anchor chord breaking? Seriously... the only anchor failures I've heard of (and I have looked into this...) involved the protection pieces popping after other errors.

I'm not being a jerk, I'm seriously interested in if this is a legitimate concern?

Happy Climbing

Post: FS: Thermarest cheap!

2009-11-28T00:14:26-06:00

Submitted By: Andrew Luke
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I have a ultralight 3/4 length Thermarest which I really don't use anymore, two patches on the backside and custom added checkerboard! Just doing some cleaning, more items to come!

$25 shipped or best offer,

FS
Submitted By: Andrew Luke on Nov 27, 2009

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FS
Submitted By: Andrew Luke on Nov 27, 2009

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Post re: Cochise Refuse Roundup 2009

2009-11-27T23:58:04-06:00

Submitted By: MichaelClimbs
Location: Arizona & New Mexico

Ready to party.

I there a check list for Keg, Firewood, and trash bags??

http://www.climbingweather.com/Arizona/Cochise-Stronghold/

Post re: Cochise Refuse Roundup December 12-13 - XPost

2009-11-27T23:55:30-06:00

Submitted By: MichaelClimbs
Location: General Climbing

This event is coming up.

Is it still on track??

I am making plans and packing the bags.

Post re: Utah alpine ice fall 09

2009-11-27T23:27:52-06:00

Submitted By: Sunny-D
Location: Northern Utah & Idaho

Mary's Lake-- Cool White stare is what we got on. Dirty blonde (had about 20 feet to touch down) was coming in and Alzcleimbers was coming in... You could see the top of the Donorcicle from the road it looked in but I did not drive up to look down in the gorge and CCC was in in looking form the road. Highway to heaven was in... There isn't any snow down there yet so its going to be awhile before other stuff comes in. All the gully cimbs driving up to Joe's were in (North Facing). Climbed in Provo Canyon Yesterday, Thanksgiving, and will be down there again tomorrow.

Post re: seeing Wisconsin and Texas in the midwest gets to me.

2009-11-27T23:27:08-06:00

Submitted By: Andrew C
Location: Discuss MountainProject.com

Technicaly Texas is in the middle of the country. I think the only cool part Texas, Hueco Tanks, should be annexed by the the four corners region.

Post re: Etiquette when finding booty?

2009-11-27T23:00:55-06:00

Submitted By: lee hansche
Location: Trad Climbing

darth jables wrote:

Just leave it!!! Dang! Doesn't anyone agree that if its not yours, don't take it. It's not considered 'booty,' you have no idea why the previous party left that piece there, and they're probably coming back to get it sometime if its a piece of gear... And if its just a bail biner, why the hell do you want someone's old manky biner, they obviously left it as a bail biner cuz its an older one. Earn some money and go buy your own f*cking gear!!!

i just got a laugh picturing one of the trade routes at any popular cliff if this ethic was in place... i know i wouldnt need to bring a rack anymore on things like Thin Air or Whitney-Gillman for example cause there would be gear to clip all the way to the top... it would look like crap too... i think ill keep cleaning up the cliffs and if there is free gear in it thats even better... i am an ethical person and ive returned gear that ive found, many times ive even climbed routes for people at Rumney just to help them avoid leaving gear if they are having a hard time... im not being a jerk when i collect gear off the cliff, im doing what i think is right...

Post re: BD Cobra Adze & Hammer, 2006/07 version w/ Android leashes

2009-11-27T22:28:28-06:00

Submitted By: Jeff Bevan
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I sent you another email and will see you at Shelf at 9 AM, Bank parking lot, grn Sub. Forrester.

Post re: BD Cobra Adze & Hammer, 2006/07 version w/ Android leashes

2009-11-27T22:24:12-06:00

Submitted By: England
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I will meet you at Shelf Road. PM sent.

Post re: seeing Wisconsin and Texas in the midwest gets to me.

2009-11-27T22:19:38-06:00

Submitted By: Woodchuck ATC
Location: Discuss MountainProject.com

and here I thought Texas was still technically part of Mexico. Thus the international rating holds true.

Post re: Photos

2009-11-27T22:15:19-06:00

Submitted By: Woodchuck ATC
Location: General Climbing

Takes 3 or 4 ft. bolts I presume? How about ice screws?

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T22:13:59-06:00

Submitted By: Woodchuck ATC
Location: General Climbing

Kat A wrote:

I see all the dogs in Steamboat Springs find you very popular. Must be whatever is in the dish you are holding.

Post: WANTED FRITSCHI Freeride/Explore Binding in size Small

2009-11-27T22:13:09-06:00

Submitted By: coppolillo
Location: For Sale / Wanted

need a SMALL set of Fritschi AT bindings for my super-honch nephew....fire me an email if you have some. thanks, rob

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T22:11:35-06:00

Submitted By: Woodchuck ATC
Location: General Climbing

adam brink wrote:

Oh, you can't fool me...that Arlo is really a bear!

Post re: La Sportiva Testarossa's and Patagonia soft shell "Guide Jacket."

2009-11-27T22:01:29-06:00

Submitted By: Allen Hill
Location: For Sale / Wanted

Fancy red Italian climbing shoes and a totally cool black, slim cut Patagonia soft shell, you'll be looking good!

Post re: BD Cobra Adze & Hammer, 2006/07 version w/ Android leashes

2009-11-27T21:56:26-06:00

Submitted By: Jeff Bevan
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I sent you an email. I'm headed to Shelf on Sat. Will be around Sunday though.

Post: FS: BCA Traverse EXT Avalanche Shovel and BCA Squall Ski Pack - New $60

2009-11-27T21:47:48-06:00

Submitted By: Dan F
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I have a brand new BCA Traverse EXT Avalanche Shovel and BCA Squall Ski Pack for sale. They retail for $45 and $70 respectively. The combo retails for $115. I am looking to sell the set for $60.

BCA's sleek mainstream pack WITHOUT hydration

* Top loading/clamshell hybrid
* Internal pockets for shovel/probe
* Internal stuff sack with spindrift collar
* Back panel access
* Load lifters
* Diagonal & A-frame ski mount
* Vertical snowboard carry system
* Volume: 1647 cu in/27 liters
* Weight: 1lb.,14oz/850g
* Pass-through hole accommodates hydration tubes

Our Stand-alone, strong & light extendable shovel.

* Super-strong oval shaft
* T-grip
* Extendable only
* 6061-series aluminum blade with oval ferrule
* Collapsed length: 23.75in/60cm
* Extended length: 30.5in/77.5cm
* Weight: 21oz/598g
* Does not accommodate Companion Probe

shovel
Submitted By: Dan F on Nov 27, 2009

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Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T21:44:52-06:00

Submitted By: Kat A
Location: General Climbing

Steamboat Springs, CO.
Submitted By: Kat A on Jun 24, 2006

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Bart relaxing
Submitted By: Kat A on May 12, 2007

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Lisa on top of Gray's Peak
Submitted By: Kat A on Oct 31, 2006

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Post re: FS: Cloudveil Hooded Down Jacket LG/Blue - $65

2009-11-27T21:42:43-06:00

Submitted By: Robert 560
Location: For Sale / Wanted

PM sent

Post: FS: Mammut Cerro Torre SoftShell Jacket LG/Blue $50

2009-11-27T21:30:13-06:00

Submitted By: Dan F
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I have had this jacket 2 years and worn about 5 times. It has sat in my closet and I figure it is time to let it go. The jacket is a great softshell. It has an athletic fit and is durable to tough weather yet extremely versatile.

From Oregon Mountain Community:
"The Mammut Cerro Torre Jacket is a classic among Comfort Soft Shells. The high-quality, new WB-400 Schoeller material with NanoSphere makes this jacket very breathable, even softer and creates highly climate comfort - ideal for every outdoor activity. Mammut Cerro Torre Jacket Features: 2 side pockets with zip Body hugging cut Chin protection One-hand adjustable collar Wider system Pre-shaped elbows Water, wind and dirt resistant Materials: WB-400 Schoeller"

From Sierra Trading Post:
Mammut's Cerro Torre waterproof jacket is made using Schoeller WB400 soft shell fabric that stretches easily, retains its shape, breathes well and blocks snow, wind, rain, stains and dirt.
# Exterior resists snags, tears and abrasion
# Stand-up collar with soft microfleece lining
# Zip hand and Napoleon pockets
# Length: 28-
# Weight: 2 lb. 8 oz.
# Fabric: 44% nylon, 38% polyester, 11% polyurethane, 7% spandex
# Care: Machine wash, hang dry
# Color (60) is 49% polyester, 31% nylon, 14% polyurethant, 6% spandex.

jkt
Submitted By: Dan F on Nov 27, 2009

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jkt
Submitted By: Dan F on Nov 27, 2009

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Post: Acopa Shoes.

2009-11-27T21:19:42-06:00

Submitted By: Grant Pinkley
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion

In the market for a new pair of shoes and was looking at either a pair of the Aztecs or the JBs. I climb a good deal of harder slabs, cracks of all sizes, the occasional ow usually on longer routes. Anybody have any first hand experience with these shoes on this type of terrain?

Post: FS: Cloudveil Hooded Down Jacket LG/Blue - $65

2009-11-27T21:17:50-06:00

Submitted By: Dan F
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I have Size LG/Blue Cloudveil Hooded Down Jacket. The jacket has been worn once and been sitting in my closet for 2 seasons. It is virtually new. It is an extremely warm and light weight jacket that is large enough to wear layers underneath

jkt
Submitted By: Dan F on Nov 27, 2009

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jkt
Submitted By: Dan F on Nov 27, 2009

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Post re: BD Cobra Adze & Hammer, 2006/07 version w/ Android leashes

2009-11-27T21:17:01-06:00

Submitted By: England
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I will make the trip to pick them up. We were thinking of mountain biking in BV tomorrow.

Post re: BD Cobra Adze & Hammer, 2006/07 version w/ Android leashes

2009-11-27T21:13:30-06:00

Submitted By: England
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I will take those PM sent. I'm ready to send the money now!

Post: FS: Gore Tex Pro Shell Hardshell Jacket - MD/Gry-Yellow $50 - NEW

2009-11-27T21:13:20-06:00

Submitted By: Dan F
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I have a Gore Tex Pro Shell jacket Hardshell for sale. It has an athletic cut and is made by Gore Tex. Will sell it for $50. The jacket is new without tags. It is worthy for full winter conditions in Colorado

jacket
Submitted By: Dan F on Nov 27, 2009

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jkt
Submitted By: Dan F on Nov 27, 2009

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Post re: Advice on starting my rack

2009-11-27T21:06:13-06:00

Submitted By: Jim Gloeckler
Location: Beginning Climbers

You might look into a sherpa for all of the gear listed so far. You will need a couple of gear slings (padded) for sure! :)

Post: BD Cobra Adze & Hammer, 2006/07 version w/ Android leashes

2009-11-27T21:02:11-06:00

Submitted By: Jeff Bevan
Location: For Sale / Wanted

Lightly used, in excellent condition with Android leashes. Shipping will be just what it costs to ship. Paypal - $260 for the pair plus shipping

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T21:01:05-06:00

Submitted By: Timmy! Tormey
Location: General Climbing

Baby Norris
Submitted By: Timmy! Tormey on Nov 27, 2009

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Frisbie!
Submitted By: Timmy! Tormey on Nov 27, 2009

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Fievel
Submitted By: Timmy! Tormey on Nov 27, 2009

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Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T20:56:17-06:00

Submitted By: Jay Eggleston
Location: General Climbing

Nico on the loose.
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Nov 27, 2009

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Pinuaua.

Post re: Advice on starting my rack

2009-11-27T20:50:41-06:00

Submitted By: Tom Hanson
Location: Beginning Climbers

Forget the new age nuts and cams and get yourself the following:
Leeper Z-channels
Bashies
Crack-n-ups
Foxheads
Copperheads
Warthogs
Bongs
Birdbeaks
Cam Hooks
Skyhooks
Cliffhangers
Dowels
Rivets
Keyhole Hangers
Trolls
Clog Cogs
Pecks
Moacs
Titons
Rurps
Hero Loops
Fifi Hooks
Ok, I'm just kidding. Guess I felt like waxing nostalgic.

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T20:41:42-06:00

Submitted By: Mike Mu.
Location: General Climbing

Casey at Christmas time
Submitted By: Mike Mu. on Nov 27, 2009

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Post: Found a guidebook at Paradox Rock today.

2009-11-27T20:40:46-06:00

Submitted By: Eric Rhicard
Location: Arizona & New Mexico

Hey kids, if you were at Paradox recently and are missing your SQ ll then pm me and I will get it back to you. Always a good idea to put your name and address in it as things come back more quickly.

Post re: Kansas Lake Property, Will Trade for Trad Gear, Bouldering Pad, GriGri or?

2009-11-27T20:33:17-06:00

Submitted By: Beached Nuts
Location: For Sale / Wanted

Adam,

Keep up the good fight. I find your barters to be some of the best reads on MP.

One of these days you'll come up with something someone here wants. I'm afraid we're just not really the sapphire, flashlight, kansas demographic.

Do you have a hot ex-girlfriend in used but well maintained condition? I've got a knee deep stack of gear.

Post re: Can any science types shed light on the Warming Email controversy?

2009-11-27T20:14:20-06:00

Submitted By: Tom Bath
Location: Community Forum

Buffy, I have no clue what you are talking about. For the record, I do believe in AGW and am very concerned about it.

Also, it is true that some "scientists" have been "black listed". A better way of phrasing this would be to say that some pseudo-scientists whose motives are to discredit AGW regardless of the data have been shunned by the scientific community. IMHO, the scientific community was justified in doing so.

Post: The Panthers tomorrow morning.

2009-11-27T20:08:09-06:00

Submitted By: Trey Lewis
Location: Arizona & New Mexico

I have a buddy in town and we are hitting up the Panther Boulders bright and early tomorrow if any ones interested. We have never been so if someone wants to show us around, that would be great.

Post re: seeing Wisconsin and Texas in the midwest gets to me.

2009-11-27T19:59:44-06:00

Submitted By: Stu Ritchie
Location: Discuss MountainProject.com

Todd,
In my humble opinion Texas should be listed under the International heading. It just seems to be a whole different country to me!

Cheers!

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T19:58:27-06:00

Submitted By: adam brink
Location: General Climbing

My boy Arlo, loving life as always.
Submitted By: adam brink on Nov 27, 2009

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Arlo in all his magnificence.
Submitted By: adam brink on Feb 15, 2008

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Post: gore proshell jacket

2009-11-27T19:57:07-06:00

Submitted By: Matt Swartz
Location: For Sale / Wanted

got this taking part in gear testing. its a gore brand shell made of the gore pro-shell material - super packable, really light weight. it's a men's size small (fits me and I am 5'8"). Has a little extra room for a light-weight down or heavy fleece underneith - would make a good winter shell. it's red and grey. jacket is in great shape as I used it a few times but other then that it's been hanging in the closet. looking to get $80. can find pictures if you are interested.

-Matt

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T19:43:15-06:00

Submitted By: Mike Dudley
Location: General Climbing

Geir Hundal wrote:

Toofast. She draws great topos.

Toofast! Got to get a picture of pipin up here.

Post: Draws at Blob Rock

2009-11-27T19:39:12-06:00

Submitted By: Elijah Flenner
Location: Lost and Found

It appears that I left my draws laying at the base of blob rock next to Jolt Cola. It someone finds them, I would love to have them back.

Elijah

Post re: FS: Full Set of BD C4s $500 + shipping

2009-11-27T19:37:08-06:00

Submitted By: Nate Johnson
Location: For Sale / Wanted

500 plus shipping, deal?

Post re: FS: Full Set of BD C4s $500 + shipping

2009-11-27T19:26:59-06:00

Submitted By: John Maguire
Location: For Sale / Wanted

if you end up piecing it out, i'll take the #4. PM me.

Post re: Utah alpine ice fall 09

2009-11-27T19:24:37-06:00

Submitted By: alpinebumm
Location: Northern Utah & Idaho

Thanks for the info, What route was in really well? How many pitches? Long drive from Portland for a small one.

Post re: FS: Full Set of BD C4s $500 + shipping

2009-11-27T19:24:36-06:00

Submitted By: divnamite
Location: For Sale / Wanted

OK, how about $500 + shipping?

Post re: FS: Full Set of BD C4s $500 + shipping

2009-11-27T19:16:35-06:00

Submitted By: Nate Johnson
Location: For Sale / Wanted

Or 400 for the set

Post re: FS: Full Set of BD C4s $500 + shipping

2009-11-27T19:12:07-06:00

Submitted By: Nate Johnson
Location: For Sale / Wanted

If you are willling to split up i would take the .3, .4, 5. and 6

Post re: Advice on starting my rack

2009-11-27T18:56:48-06:00

Submitted By: Evan1984
Location: Beginning Climbers

Todd Morrison wrote:

Seriously, take this advice. At 23 living in Texas, I bought the gear and showed up to a small state park by mineral wells to 'jump in' at a small canyon system there. No friends with experience, a few gym climbs less than 5.5, and an empty crag. Caribiner in the bolt, rope straight down with a mis-tied bowline, and a single line through the ATC. Swung and hit the wall ripping open the skin, and skidding down. Luckily it was less than 15 feet, and I was able to partial brake on the way down with my flailing break hand. The main line stayed tied, I guess, because I really wasn't on it that long. To make a long story short, show up at the wall and say "I have never done this before, can you help me" to the people around you that are not climbing/belaying. Don't hide what you are unsure about. The more the better... since experienced climbers have ethics, and usually will not let you go down with bad setup (even if it means interrupting their busy schedule) Simply saying, "can you look over this to make sure I didn't miss anything" to three people (from different groups) will expose alot of issues for any climber. In regards to the rack: an alpine climber of 30 years told me at the same question, my first week at the gym in fact, "if you can't start a climb with a rack of particular nuts/hexes, predict the placement, pull, and fix the correct sizes at an arms length, you are not prepared to lead" I am not an experienced lead, but I get what he is saying. practicing placements without cams for a year sure has made me think about the climb (photos, general staring, prediciting movement, etc) before touching the rock. Hope that advice helps someone besides me.

Todd,

I agree that climbing is not to be taken lightly. I agree that having a couple of people to check your systems is great. I agree that passive gear is preferable to cams when a good placement exists.

I think your warning against the dangers of climbing and the "readiness" to lead are a bit hyperbolic. Find a good partner, read a good book, don't be afraid to ask ?'s and get out there and start on some simple leads. Chose climbs that are 5.4-5.5 or lower with bolted anchors to start(it'll seems terifying, trust us) and gets some mileage on the rock. Have your partner follow and critique your placements/systems. Even now, I always ask my second how the placements looked. Hell, set up a toprope and practice lead a couple route with the mentality that the toprope is only a backup. Bounce testing some palcements on the ground will give you a goodd idea of what works and what doesn't.

My main point is that leading is challenging/potentially hazardous, but don't be scared off. If you get out there with some good base knowledge and use good judgement, and pick appropriate routes, its not something to be intimdated by. Cautious of, yes, but not intimidated by.

Evan

Post re: Left Gear at Beaver Wall, Please Return...!

2009-11-27T18:46:19-06:00

Submitted By: Eric Ruljancich
Location: Arizona & New Mexico

David,

My shoes found their way back to me, so I'm hoping the same will happen with your gear.

Oh, and remember to ignore the static. :)

Post re: FS: 179 Karhu Jak BCs / BD 01 Tele-Bindings / 3 x boots

2009-11-27T18:42:52-06:00

Submitted By: Allen Hill
Location: For Sale / Wanted

Same for me regarding the Jaks

Post: Ride Offered: SLC to LA, via Vegas

2009-11-27T18:40:14-06:00

Submitted By: Cameron Walker
Location: Northern Utah & Idaho

Just wanted to give a quick shout- I'm leaving Ogden Saturday (28th) have to be in LA by Sunday late afternoon. I'm open to a little climbing as long as I get to hell-a on time.
Looking for a little help w/ gas and good convo, as the car has no radio.
480) 540-4508 or email me here I guess.

Post re: FS: Full Set of BD C4s $500 + shipping

2009-11-27T18:30:04-06:00

Submitted By: Tparis
Location: For Sale / Wanted

you may want to lower your price a little considering that you can get a brand new set for about that price at bentgate with their 20% off sale. (although their set starts at .4).

Post re: Bionic Anti-Balling Plates

2009-11-27T18:27:28-06:00

Submitted By: Eric Simons
Location: For Sale / Wanted

Thanks Brooks8970 but I took them into Neptune and that strategy didn't work. Good thought though.

Post re: Advice on starting my rack

2009-11-27T18:15:28-06:00

Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse
Location: Beginning Climbers

Lots of "tie your own" webbing as well

Post: seeing Wisconsin and Texas in the midwest gets to me.

2009-11-27T18:08:09-06:00

Submitted By: Todd Morrison
Location: Discuss MountainProject.com

What should that be called?

I am looking around for people in texas, but that forum is scattered with a different region (the more climbing friendly one)

Todd

Post re: Great knot site for knoobs

2009-11-27T18:05:04-06:00

Submitted By: Todd Morrison
Location: Beginning Climbers

likewise.

Go out and buy a cheap 4-8mm cord, and leave pieces laying around your favorite spots at home and work.

I am a software developer. While I am waiting for code compilation, often between 15-40 seconds, I practice knots.

Otherwise your ties will get really mangled before work putting a bite on the pratt knot!

Post re: Las Vegas Red Rock Fractional Ownership Interest?

2009-11-27T17:59:52-06:00

Submitted By: Keven
Location: For Sale / Wanted

bump

Post re: Utah alpine ice fall 09

2009-11-27T17:55:31-06:00

Submitted By: Sunny-D
Location: Northern Utah & Idaho

Joes has ice... I was at Mary's Lake a week ago you could drive in with a 2 wheel drive car. 1"of snow. One route in really well. 2 more trying to come in. Joe's looked like stuff was forming there as I drove by ice on CCC, Donorcicle, and Highway to Heaven.

Post re: Can any science types shed light on the Warming Email controversy?

2009-11-27T17:49:15-06:00

Submitted By: PRRose
Location: Community Forum

Tom Bath wrote:

Shawn, the fact that some scientists have been blacklisted is a very legitimate concern on your part. The question you need to ask yourself is are these why are these scientists being blacklisted. Is it simply because they disagree with the larger community or is because they are not interested in having a real debate but trying to maliciously undermine the science. As I suggested in my last post the only way to know for sure is to spend a great deal of time examining the data ourselves. There is no question that some people have been blacklisted, the question is do their actions warrant it?

Who has been "blacklisted"?

Post re: Advice on starting my rack

2009-11-27T17:46:01-06:00

Submitted By: Todd Morrison
Location: Beginning Climbers

saxfiend wrote:

You're a novice, so even if you had all the pro you needed, you're not in a good position to judge whether your gear placements are adequate for a safe toprope anchor; I probably don't need to tell you the dire consequences of an inadequate anchor.

Seriously, take this advice.

At 23 living in Texas, I bought the gear and showed up to a small state park by mineral wells to 'jump in' at a small canyon system there. No friends with experience, a few gym climbs less than 5.5, and an empty crag.

Caribiner in the bolt, rope straight down with a mis-tied bowline, and a single line through the ATC.

Swung and hit the wall ripping open the skin, and skidding down. Luckily it was less than 15 feet, and I was able to partial brake on the way down with my flailing break hand.

The main line stayed tied, I guess, because I really wasn't on it that long.

To make a long story short, show up at the wall and say "I have never done this before, can you help me" to the people around you that are not climbing/belaying. Don't hide what you are unsure about.

The more the better... since experienced climbers have ethics, and usually will not let you go down with bad setup (even if it means interrupting their busy schedule)

Simply saying, "can you look over this to make sure I didn't miss anything" to three people (from different groups) will expose alot of issues for any climber.

In regards to the rack:
an alpine climber of 30 years told me at the same question, my first week at the gym in fact,

"if you can't start a climb with a rack of particular nuts/hexes, predict the placement, pull, and fix the correct sizes at an arms length, you are not prepared to lead"

I am not an experienced lead, but I get what he is saying.

practicing placements without cams for a year sure has made me think about the climb (photos, general staring, prediciting movement, etc) before touching the rock.

Hope that advice helps someone besides me.

Post: Carter Lake is not in Ft. Collins

2009-11-27T17:27:09-06:00

Submitted By: boydpainting
Location: Discuss MountainProject.com

Carter should, IMHO, should be moved to The Estes Park Vally area as it is closer to all the router listed in the Narrows(about 7mi.) than it is to Ft. Collins(about 30mi). Just a thought. Keep up the good. J.

Post re: Can any science types shed light on the Warming Email controversy?

2009-11-27T17:25:54-06:00

Submitted By: Buff Johnson
Location: Community Forum

Tom Bath wrote:

The question you need to ask yourself is are these why are these scientists being blacklisted. Is it simply because they disagree with the larger community or is because they are not interested in having a real debate but trying to maliciously undermine the science?

Kinda sounds like the supposed mouse re-data analyses. But in this case; No, no way, we did real science. yet still .. no mouse.

What's that you say??

Yeah, still no mouse

Could you reapeat that? I didn't quite get all that.

Oh, yeah; that's right, still no mouse.

Post re: Sunny bouldering in Lyons?

2009-11-27T17:17:47-06:00

Submitted By: boydpainting
Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R...

Biglandia will be in the shade after 11:00am or so.From Mighty Wall to the south is a good host of moderates, and north to the dam it gets a little tougher. Have fun. J.

Post re: Remove Pro

2009-11-27T16:50:20-06:00

Submitted By: Todd Morrison
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion

Basically I start with a two heavy runners equalizing between two bolts.

From the runners, I attach to carabiners (with openings facing opposite directions)

Attach Main line to tree with a rewoven eight, let out slack (just a little), then eight-on-a-bite into the two carabiniers supported by the two bolts.

I ended up tying the backup line directly to the carabiners with a rewoven eight, and dropped it down on the right of the main line.

The backup line has bites (eight-on-a-bite) every 4 feet or so.

Repell down (ATC) on main line.

On the ground, I loose the ATC (on rack) and strap my harness to my ascender (petzl ascension)

Single quickdraw into the first back-up line bite.

(ready to start moving up)

Every move, just about, I have to feed the ascender, re-set the quick-draw to the 'latest' back-up line bite, then, actually try to 'practice' for pro-placement.

I am using the main line as a 'get down option' with the ATC and the back-up line as a catch-me just incase pro is not placed well (since I am still learning).

I would consider letting the ascender to the job on the main line, as the fallback, but I could see that tearing the rope on a fall.

What do you think? does this technique suck?

Post re: Can any science types shed light on the Warming Email controversy?

2009-11-27T16:42:51-06:00

Submitted By: Tom Bath
Location: Community Forum

Shawn, the fact that some scientists have been blacklisted is a very legitimate concern on your part. The question you need to ask yourself is are these why are these scientists being blacklisted. Is it simply because they disagree with the larger community or is because they are not interested in having a real debate but trying to maliciously undermine the science. As I suggested in my last post the only way to know for sure is to spend a great deal of time examining the data ourselves. There is no question that some people have been blacklisted, the question is do their actions warrant it?

Post: FS: Arcteryx gamma MX pant size MD regular length - black $135

2009-11-27T16:37:40-06:00

Submitted By: Dan F
Location: For Sale / Wanted

I have a pair of near new pair of Arcteryx Gamma MX pants. They are Medium black. They retail fro $300 and I am looking to sell them for $135. I am willing to ship them if you cover the shipping charge. The pants have seen light use on the 3 or 4 days of back country skiing.

Here is a description from basegear.com

Adopting a guide's calculated mentality, the ARCTERYX Gamma MX Pant is prepared for sudden shifts in weather, objectives or perspectives. Stretchy, breathable and weather-shedding fabric tackles everything from mixed routes to epic tours.

Features

* Adjustable cuff shock cord
* Breathable, wind- and water resistant
* DWR finish
* Front fly and waist belt
* Gusseted crotch
* Schoeller Dynamic instep patches
* Snap waist closure
* Two hand pockets
* Two high volume thigh pockets
* Two-way fly zipper

Specifications

* Weight: 18.3 oz
* Materials: Polartec Power Shield lightweight, Schoeller Dynamic
* Model: 4456

Sizing Chart

Men's Sizing

Measurement
S M L XL
Chest 38" 40" 43" 46"
Waist 31" 33" 36" 39"
Hip 38" 40" 43' 46"
Center back to wrist 33" 34" 35" 36"
Short Inseam 28-1/2" 28-1/2" 29-1/8" 29-3/4"
Regular Inseam 30-1/2" 30-1/2" 31-1/8" 31-3/4"
Tall Inseam 33-1/2" 33-1/2" 34-1/8" 34-3/4"

Post re: FS: Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody Large-GreenBean $150

2009-11-27T16:31:51-06:00

Submitted By: Dan F
Location: For Sale / Wanted

bump

Post re: Utah alpine ice fall 09

2009-11-27T16:28:40-06:00

Submitted By: Shorb
Location: Northern Utah & Idaho

alpinebumm wrote:

I'd like to head down to slide lake next week I have to drive from Portland, does anyone know if its in? Anything else in the area in? Anywhere?

I will be checking on Joes conditions sunday. I probably won't go all the way to Mary's or slide, but I'll let u know what I find down there.

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T16:26:16-06:00

Submitted By: Gregger Man
Location: General Climbing

Vesper hangin' out in the bird bath.
Submitted By: Gregger Man on Nov 27, 2009

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Post re: What does your Woody look like???

2009-11-27T16:08:55-06:00

Submitted By: Woodchuck ATC
Location: General Climbing

Thanks koreo. I pride myself in how poor my carpentership is. But it works. You should see the OTHER side with the ice climbing section on it, but that's another category I believe.

Post re: Can any science types shed light on the Warming Email controversy?

2009-11-27T16:08:19-06:00

Submitted By: Tom Bath
Location: Community Forum

If you really want to know who is telling the "truth" in the global warming debate you need to spend some serious time researching the topic. After all, most people (on both sides of the debate) don't really have a strong basis for their position on the matter. Most people simply believe the superficial arguments made by those in the popular press who share their cultural and/or political beliefs. But why should you trust one talking head over another? Since the consequences of BOTH action and inaction are potentially catastrophic (i.e. significant damage to the economy on one hand and to the Earth on the other) shouldn't you take the time to examine the evidence for yourself and then decide?

So, assuming that you think researching this topic is worthwhile, where should you begin? I suggest starting with the following:
For those with a solid scientific background: http://www.ipcc.ch/publications_and_data/publications_ipcc_f>>>>>
For those without a scientific background: http://geoflop.uchicago.edu/forecast/docs/lectures.html

Some of you might be asking: Why should I start here? And, how do I know if these sources are trustworthy? Honesty speaking, you don't know if these sources are trustworthy, and I am not suggesting that you should trust (or distrust!) them. The reason I recommend starting with these sources is that they do a decent job representing what the majority (but not all) of the scientific community believes. Once again, I am not suggesting that you should believe these sources just because they are written by scientists (after all, we all make mistakes). What I am suggesting is that in order to evaluate the criticisms leveled against the theory of global warming you must first have a working understanding of the theory itself. Furthermore, I would suggest that anyone who tells you not to read ANY source because it is biased should be ignored. In my opinion, you should read as much as you can representing BOTH sides of the debate before drawing any conclusions.

Once you have carefully read either the IPCC report or Global Warming: Understanding the Forecast (watching the lectures associated with the book is acceptable too, though not as good) you should be ready to evaluate the arguments against global warming. You will not have to look hard to find these, they are numerous (this is a natural cycle, the sun is causing the warming, computer models are flawed, global warming has stopped and we are now cooling, etc.) and ubiquitous. When you evaluate any criticism or alternate theory I suggest taking the following approach.

First, read the article or paper carefully (scanning it is not adequate) and in its entirety. Once you feel you have a good understanding of the article, do a Google search looking for counterpoints. Once you have read and fully understand those, go back and do another Google search looking for counter-counterpoints. Continue this process several times until you feel as though you have a good understanding of the differing perspectives. Only then should you draw a draw a conclusion.

Finally, it is important to do your best to remain open minded and objective when doing your research. Remain open to the possibility that your current position is wrong and don't let the tone of an article influence your opinion one way or the other. For example, don't let alarmist talk scare you into believing something. On the other hand, don't dismiss something just because is sounds alarming. Try to look at the objectively at the data and decide for yourself.

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T15:57:27-06:00

Submitted By: Geir Hundal
Location: General Climbing

Toofast. She draws great topos.

-
Submitted By: Toofast on Oct 2, 2009

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Post re: Remove Pro

2009-11-27T15:47:06-06:00

Submitted By: brooks8970
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion

Are you solo leading or top roping? What is your anchor set up? What kind of ascender are you using? What types of protection?

Edit: Are you talking about your anchor protection while solo TRing?
If so, what is your backup line connected to?

Post re: Photos

2009-11-27T15:40:40-06:00

Submitted By: Tevis Blom
Location: General Climbing

wow, that looks like vertical red kitty litter!

Post re: Can any science types shed light on the Warming Email controversy?

2009-11-27T15:31:49-06:00

Submitted By: Tevis Blom
Location: Community Forum

glacial retreat, ice cap retreat, ice core data, paleo-fossil data, tree ring data, Sea surface temp data, reef die-off, ecosystem latitude and elevation shift, Co2 data, aerosol pollution data...the list goes on. All of these methods point to human caused warming during the last century.

What we don't know is how the weather system will respond. Rapid climate change has happened in the past (evidenced by above methods).
It could get really warm, it could also plunge us back into a mini-ice age.

Bottom line: fighting over whether it exists or not is pretty pointless. (just do some actual research instead of watching TV)
If you really don't believe it, take a few science classes.

If you haven't studied geology, chemistry, atmospheric studies, biology, hydrology, meteorology, climatology, and the like... you probably have no real basis for arguing at all! If you are intelligent enough and do your own research, you will find that the whole point of science is to be transparent. There is almost zero dissent amongst the [real] scientific community on this topic.

No name calling, just the facts.

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T15:18:52-06:00

Submitted By: Devan Johnson
Location: General Climbing

Piper. Best dog ever.
Submitted By: Devan Johnson on Nov 27, 2009

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Post re: Remove Pro

2009-11-27T14:57:08-06:00

Submitted By: Todd Morrison
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion

Yeah, I'm on the 5pm to 11pm climb-time and it gets dark here really early (around 4:30 without rain). 9-5 jobs take your daylight away!

I haven't read the sign in over a year but I think its a 11pm close time. I will check tomorrow to make sure.

Also, did not mean to offend by saying 'rock jock'; was simply implying that most sport climbers love perfect weather, and I don't blame them considering some of the route difficulties the real jocks are achieving these days.

The required core body strength alone for some of the routes may be beyond my genetic disposition, so I like to struggle with 5.8-5.9's in bad weather with snow gear.

Post re: Sunny bouldering in Lyons?

2009-11-27T14:34:45-06:00

Submitted By: tom selleck
Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R...

AndrewinLyons wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion! I've been to Carter a couple of times since and had a blast. But holy crap we went to the kahuna roof sunday and there were about 15 of us down there at one point. Talk about a buzz kill...

Yeah, Kahuna roof, Is it really that good?!? The extension wall Monster block, Mars Block and the little Debbie boulder are all just as good IMHO. Plus there's plent of stuff no one ever does, Biglandia is a worthy destination as well...if you like traversing.

Post re: FS: 179 Karhu Jak BCs / BD 01 Tele-Bindings / 3 x boots

2009-11-27T14:26:56-06:00

Submitted By: Sergio P
Location: For Sale / Wanted

What are the dementions on the Jaks? I would like to see top and bottom picks of them. email them or post them.

Post re: FS: Full Set of BD C4s $500 + shipping

2009-11-27T14:16:55-06:00

Submitted By: Shawn Mitchell
Location: For Sale / Wanted

If you end up piecing them, I'd like the #6.

Post: FS: Full Set of BD C4s $500 + shipping

2009-11-27T14:15:14-06:00

Submitted By: divnamite
Location: For Sale / Wanted

Here is your black Friday sale! I know I'll regret it later, but I need some money for xmas!

A fullset BD C4 #.3 - #6. $500 with say $15 for shipping within US?

#.3 - #3 are basically new, never fallen on. They have the normal scratches when cams are placed and dragged around.

#4,5,6 are basically new. They barely even have a scratch from carrying in a backpack.

So shiny and pretty! I'm not willing to part them unless all are sold.

Black Diamond C4 #.3 - #6
Submitted By: divnamite on Nov 27, 2009

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Black Diamond C4 #.3 - #75
Submitted By: divnamite on Nov 27, 2009

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Black Diamond C4 #1 - #3
Submitted By: divnamite on Nov 27, 2009

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Black Diamond C4 #4 - #6
Submitted By: divnamite on Nov 27, 2009

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Post re: Can any science types shed light on the Warming Email controversy?

2009-11-27T14:05:18-06:00

Submitted By: Pete Hickman
Location: Community Forum

This email thing is only exciting for those who already hold opinions for which they will accept any kind of support. The dangerous ethical lapse is not the stealing of emails and documents but the willingness to present this kind of stuff as "evidence" in a global debate that is potentially very serious, particularly for millions of people who aren't even included in the debate. Its a shame that issues like this become battlegrounds for many who don't even understand the substantive and ethical aspects but rather see the entire issue as simply an attack on their way of life. I think most who believe in man made global warming would like nothing more than to find out that we're completely wrong about that. I would love to find out that there is nothing wrong with buying an SUV and burning the rainforests but just because I would like it to be true don't make it so.

At any rate, don't dissuade these people too much. You'll want someone to sell your seaside cottages to in the next few years, and we can't all fit on the high ground. So, I think you are right, there is no such thing as man made global warming, these emails prove that it is conspiracy by the fascist left, those cars you see which stretch forever in every direction, there is nothing wrong with that, and if you're in the market, I suggest you take advantage of all of this ridiculous paranoia and invest in the sea level property these fools are selling.

Post re: Can any science types shed light on the Warming Email controversy?

2009-11-27T13:52:36-06:00

Submitted By: Calirado
Location: Community Forum

My browser doesn't show anything...but when I quoted you to post this link, the coded text shows you have a youtube embed. Strange. Well, is this what you had in mind?

Pretty funny stuff!

Post re: Remove Pro

2009-11-27T13:52:17-06:00

Submitted By: Shapp
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion

Might I add that the Eugene Columns are closed at night, which might be why you can't find any of the local "rock jocks" to train with at that time. Please comply with the night closure so as not to piss the city off at the rest of us climbers. I will be down there for xmas if you need a daytime partner. send me an email if you want to hook up at the columns for some lead climbing

jshappart at g m a i l dot c o m

Post re: What does your Woody look like???

2009-11-27T13:46:37-06:00

Submitted By: koreo
Location: General Climbing

Woodchuck ATC wrote:

4 sided 'storage shed' is what I told the village code inspector this was. Duuuuh,,. Some holds have been out there in the weather for over 14 years now.

It's not even funny how badass that is.

Post re: Left Gear at Beaver Wall, Please Return...!

2009-11-27T13:45:05-06:00

Submitted By: Geir Hundal
Location: Arizona & New Mexico

Adam Block wrote:

I wasn't slighting him in the least, was just trying to get some more details.

oh ok, thanks adam. sorry i lumped you in with tdog's comments. :)

David-

hope that you find your stuff. you can borrow some of my lucky gear if your gear doesn't turn up!

Post re: Winter wear and gear for sale...

2009-11-27T13:39:13-06:00

Submitted By: koreo
Location: For Sale / Wanted

PMed for biners, slings, dogbones

Post re: Can any science types shed light on the Warming Email controversy?

2009-11-27T13:37:49-06:00

Submitted By: Ian F.
Location: Community Forum

Hilarious! And relevant to these e-mails and ultimately the overall propoganda.

Very short vid.

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T13:34:26-06:00

Submitted By: koreo
Location: General Climbing

My roommate and rooster watchin TV.

Chillin in front of the idiot box
Submitted By: koreo on Nov 27, 2009

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Post re: Vedauwoo formation for easy moderate routes?

2009-11-27T13:22:31-06:00

Submitted By: Ben Hicks
Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R...

Bah.. aborted. Went out there and though necessary to trudge through some snow to the rocks, it was good enough weather to climb, but my daughter forgot warm clothes. Humbug. Edwards crack was basking in the sun.

Post re: Utah alpine ice fall 09

2009-11-27T13:19:33-06:00

Submitted By: alpinebumm
Location: Northern Utah & Idaho

I'd like to head down to slide lake next week I have to drive from Portland, does anyone know if its in? Anything else in the area in? Anywhere?

Post re: FS: Scarpa Laser AT / Ski-Mountianeering Boots 12.5-13 $80

2009-11-27T13:18:52-06:00

Submitted By: Casey Bernal
Location: For Sale / Wanted

Bindings ---> *SOLD*

Post re: Remove Pro

2009-11-27T13:05:17-06:00

Submitted By: Todd Morrison
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion

I am often on some local basalt columns in the middle of the night, when the weather is bad of course, in my alpine gear.

For some reason I have not met any of the rock jocks that are willing to train under these circumstances, so I have plenty of time and space.

What I ended up going with this morning, after everyones advice, is a backup line with 'eights on a bite' every 4 feet, the main line with a locking ascender, then the placements. This way, I could wrap my head around *really* staying off the placements, and not have to deal with the welding.

I do agree that the best way to solve the problem is to stay off the nuts, and deal with digging on a fall.

That's the best I can do alone, I guess.

Post re: Left Gear at Beaver Wall, Please Return...!

2009-11-27T13:03:08-06:00

Submitted By: David Merin
Location: Arizona & New Mexico

I forgot to mention that the Alien, nuts and biners we lucky for me...

If my sincere gratitude is not enough, I will pay $ to who ever returns these goods.

Thanks!

Post re: Ouray ice climbing on non- weekends

2009-11-27T12:58:44-06:00

Submitted By: Wally
Location: Ice Climbing

Monte, probably not very crowded. Ouray sees a lot of weekend traffic from Boulder, Salt Lake, etc.

Wally

Post re: Kansas Lake Property, Will Trade for Trad Gear, Bouldering Pad, GriGri or?

2009-11-27T12:56:55-06:00

Submitted By: Adam Block
Location: For Sale / Wanted

Andrew C wrote:

I'm pretty sure most of the users on this site won't want to touch Kansas with a ten foot pole. No offence but I can't think of more boring place in the United States besides maybe North Dakota. Good luck man.

I'm trying to come up with a rebuttal...I got nothing.

Post re: Winter wear and gear for sale...

2009-11-27T12:35:52-06:00

Submitted By: Jake D.
Location: For Sale / Wanted

PM send re: #3 camalot

Post re: Best Dog Photo ?

2009-11-27T12:31:20-06:00

Submitted By: Spencer
Location: General Climbing

CUTE!
Submitted By: Spencer on Nov 27, 2009

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Stella sleeping
Submitted By: Spencer on Nov 27, 2009

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