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Classic Climbs for Lower Great Face

Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Central Buttress/5.7 start
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 47
Gizmo
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 32
Not Wizard's Gate
Sport 3 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 7
Wild Raspberry
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 34
Gremlin
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 112
Return of the King
Sport 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 109
Crystal Staircase
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Dead End
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 82
Witchway Arete
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
The Edgy Wizard
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 9
Left Center
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
What's My Line
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Closed Casket
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Pyramid Scheme
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Merlin's Magic Corner
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Crashed At Sea
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 69
Dark Horse
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
Atmospheric Testing
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 134
Wizard's Path
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 62
G3
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 59
The White Raven
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 53
Riding with the Ravens
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 28
The Arrival (removed July 21, 2022)
Sport 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
Wizard's Key
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 92
The Guillotine
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 75
Take Me to Your Leader
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 118
The Gatekeeper
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
Book of Spells
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 29
Afterlife
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 51
Magic Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 24
Cloak and Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 12
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 6
Black Magic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Central Buttress/5.7 start D. Right of Wizard's…
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Gizmo C. Wizard's Gate
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Not Wizard's Gate D. Right of Wizard's…
 32
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Wild Raspberry D. Right of Wizard's…
 7
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Gremlin C. Wizard's Gate
 34
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Return of the King C. Wizard's Gate
 112
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches
Crystal Staircase C. Wizard's Gate
 109
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dead End C. Wizard's Gate
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Witchway Arete C. Wizard's Gate
 82
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Edgy Wizard C. Wizard's Gate
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Left Center B. Between Castaway &…
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
What's My Line A. Castaway Crag
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Closed Casket D. Right of Wizard's…
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pyramid Scheme D. Right of Wizard's…
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Merlin's Magic Corner C. Wizard's Gate
 29
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Crashed At Sea A. Castaway Crag
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dark Horse C. Wizard's Gate
 69
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Atmospheric Testing A. Castaway Crag
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wizard's Path C. Wizard's Gate
 134
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
G3 C. Wizard's Gate
 62
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The White Raven C. Wizard's Gate
 59
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Riding with the Ravens C. Wizard's Gate
 53
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Arrival (removed July 2… C. Wizard's Gate
 28
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 4 pitches
Wizard's Key C. Wizard's Gate
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Guillotine C. Wizard's Gate
 92
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Take Me to Your Leader C. Wizard's Gate
 75
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
The Gatekeeper C. Wizard's Gate
 118
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Book of Spells C. Wizard's Gate
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Afterlife C. Wizard's Gate
 29
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Magic Dagger C. Wizard's Gate
 51
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cloak and Dagger C. Wizard's Gate
 24
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Magic Carpet Ride C. Wizard's Gate
 12
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Black Magic C. Wizard's Gate
 6
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport

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