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'Technique' in the School of Rock


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Using a fifi hook to rest instead of clipping in directly. <br />-by John McMullen
Switching Seamlessly Between Aid and Free Climbing
We are all duly impressed when talented climbers make quick free ascents of long 5.12 and 5.13 routes, but just because you don’t climb at that standard doesn’t mean you can’t do those same climbs. A bit of aid climbing is the key to keeping difficulties within your grade...
Jeff Achey at Climbing Magazine
How to top out gracefully <br />by Mike Clelland
Avoiding the Beached Whale
You’ve just hiked the crux of your latest proj. Just a few easy moves and a nasty topout separate you from victory. You stick the final grips with ease, and pull up to the lip. Then it hits you: Your feet are way off the deck, and you’re not sure what to do next. Panickin...
Chris Van Leuven at Climbing Magazine
Heel Toe Cam <br />
6 Crucial Wide-Crack Techniques
I was barely halfway through a 90-foot route when I used the last of my breath to wheeze “Take!” Blood from my skinned elbows leaked through my shirt, and sweat dripped into my eyes when I realized I simply couldn’t climb anymore. The route was the classic 5.9 offwidth Ch...
Matt Kuehl at Climbing Magazine
10 Things You Didn’t Know About Dynos
Call them what you will—“sloppy,” “desperate,” “intimidating,” “amazing”—but dynamic moves are essential to our repertoire. The first climber to dyno? Who knows, but John Gill certainly got the ball rolling with his powerful, dynamic style in the late 1950s. Chris Sharma’...
By Matt Samet at Climbing Magazine
Use Your Loops Wisely
Attain Speed by Eliminating Gear-Fumbling
Successful and swift trad climbing is all about efficiency. You can’t squander minutes searching for the perfect piece, drain strength by over-gripping while you untangle runners from your cams, or waste energy by lugging up unnecessary weight. Mayan Smith-Gobat knows a t...
Leia Larsen and Mayan Smith-Gobat at Climbing Magazine
Setting up a clean rappel
Prevent Rope Snags During Rappels
Setting up a clean rappel THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT thing when retreating in a storm is to maintain steady downward progress. Foremost, this means avoiding a stuck rope. As you descend, be mindful of rope-eating blocks or flakes. If you encounter a r...
Mark Synnott at Climbing Magazine
A chimney rest allows both arms to recover. by Andrew Burr
Rest for Success
The best way to maximize your staying power for enduro-packed routes is by resting more often and more efficiently during the climb. You may do endless training laps for stamina, but learning to cop strategic rests mid-route is more likely to win you the onsight on any te...
Dougald MacDonald at Climbing Magazine
Advanced Trad Lead Demo
Learn advanced techniques and gear tips for leading the Joshua Tree classic "Coarse and Buggy" 11a/b.
Climbing Tech Tips
Ice Climbing Over Bulges
Learn how to mantle like an expert and move over changes in angle on ice climbs.
Climbing Tech Tips
Climbing and Protecting Traverses
Climb traverses safely and see the importance of protecting traverses for the follower.
Climbing Tech Tips
Plan for and Conquer a Crux
Learn how to prepare for a crux and then send it with control.
Climbing Tech Tips
Navigating a Roof
Learn where to place gear when leading a roof and why proper placement is important.
Climbing Tech Tips
Basic Hold Types and Grip Techniques
View the different types of handholds and how to position your hands on them for the best grip.
Climbing Tech Tips
Basic Footwork Tips
See the best ways to position your feet on different rock features.
Climbing Tech Tips
How to Hook with Ice Tools
Learn how to place ice tools between rock and ice and when to trust it.
Climbing Tech Tips
Basic Techniques for Ice Climbing
What you need to know for safe efficient ice climbing: footwork, tool placement, swing dynamics, anchors and resting.
Climbing Tech Tips