Switching Seamlessly Between Aid and Free Climbing
We are all duly impressed when talented climbers make quick free ascents of long 5.12 and 5.13 routes, but just because you don’t climb at that standard doesn’t mean you can’t do those same climbs. A bit of aid climbing is the key to keeping difficulties within your grade...
Jeff Achey at Climbing Magazine
Avoiding the Beached Whale
You’ve just hiked the crux of your latest proj. Just a few easy moves and a nasty topout separate you from victory. You stick the final grips with ease, and pull up to the lip. Then it hits you: Your feet are way off the deck, and you’re not sure what to do next. Panickin...
Chris Van Leuven at Climbing Magazine
6 Crucial Wide-Crack Techniques
I was barely halfway through a 90-foot route when I used the last of my breath to wheeze “Take!” Blood from my skinned elbows leaked through my shirt, and sweat dripped into my eyes when I realized I simply couldn’t climb anymore. The route was the classic 5.9 offwidth Ch...
Matt Kuehl at Climbing Magazine
10 Things You Didn’t Know About Dynos
Call them what you will—“sloppy,” “desperate,” “intimidating,” “amazing”—but dynamic moves are essential to our repertoire. The first climber to dyno? Who knows, but John Gill certainly got the ball rolling with his powerful, dynamic style in the late 1950s. Chris Sharma’...
By Matt Samet at Climbing Magazine
Attain Speed by Eliminating Gear-Fumbling
Successful and swift trad climbing is all about efficiency. You can’t squander minutes searching for the perfect piece, drain strength by over-gripping while you untangle runners from your cams, or waste energy by lugging up unnecessary weight. Mayan Smith-Gobat knows a t...
Leia Larsen and Mayan Smith-Gobat at Climbing Magazine
Prevent Rope Snags During Rappels
Setting up a clean rappel THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT thing when retreating in a storm is to maintain steady downward progress. Foremost, this means avoiding a stuck rope. As you descend, be mindful of rope-eating blocks or flakes. If y...
Mark Synnott at Climbing Magazine
Rest for Success
The best way to maximize your staying power for enduro-packed routes is by resting more often and more efficiently during the climb. You may do endless training laps for stamina, but learning to cop strategic rests mid-route is more likely to win you the onsight on any te...
Dougald MacDonald at Climbing Magazine