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 ADVANCED

'Leading' in the School of Rock


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The simple life: a portaledge camp on El Cap.  <br />by Kevin Steele/Wonderful Machine
Leading Your First Big Wall
Leading on a big wall is similar to leading on a long day climb, except your rack will be bigger, and you’ll usually be doing a lot more aid climbing. Expect to feel heavy and encumbered—and to use aid on many moves you would usually climb free. Practice basic aid by clea...
Mark Synnott at Climbing Magazine
How to fall safely <br />by Chris Philpot <br />
How to Fall
Falling is essential for advancing as a rock climber. The saying goes, “If you aren’t falling, you aren’t trying hard enough.” To progress, you need to try moves that are at the edge of your ability—or beyond—and when you try that hard, you will fall. Toprope falls are th...
Dougald MacDonald at Climbing Magazine
Advanced Trad Lead Demo
Learn advanced techniques and gear tips for leading the Joshua Tree classic "Coarse and Buggy" 11a/b.
Climbing Tech Tips
Climbing and Protecting Traverses
Climb traverses safely and see the importance of protecting traverses for the follower.
Climbing Tech Tips
Plan for and Conquer a Crux
Learn how to prepare for a crux and then send it with control.
Climbing Tech Tips
Placing Gear on Lead
See the best positions from which to place gear.
Climbing Tech Tips
Navigating a Roof
Learn where to place gear when leading a roof and why proper placement is important.
Climbing Tech Tips
How to Place Cams
Learn how to place camming devices (cams) in which parts of the rock for best results.
Climbing Tech Tips
How to Remove a Stopper or Nut
See how to remove nuts / stoppers, rack them afterwards and not drop your nut tool in the process.
Climbing Tech Tips
How to Place a Stopper or Nut
View this demonstration on how to position a nut in rock constrictions, clip in and recognize problems with directionality.
Climbing Tech Tips
How to Place Ice Screws
Learn how to set up for an ice screw placement and install it securely.
Climbing Tech Tips
Make a V-Thread Anchor in Ice
How to make a strong V-thread rappel anchor.
Climbing Tech Tips