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'Belaying' in the School of Rock


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Neck Muscle Strain
Belayer's Neck
Although “belayer’s neck” is not an official orthopedic diagnosis, it is an official pain in the ass—er, neck—for most climbers. We focus so much on avoiding injury while climbing that we ignore the possibility of chronic injury from belaying. It’s particularly bad becaus...
Dr. Carla Cupido at Climbing Magazine
Belaying While Mid-Pitch While Simu-climbing
If you are simul-climbing part of a route because it is technically easy (e.g., 5.4 or 5.5), you still might come across an isolated crux section that is two or three body-lengths and more difficult (e.g., 5.8 or 5.9). That portion might warrant a belay for the leader and...
Scott Bennett at Climbing Magazine
How to Hip Belay <br />by Supercorn
How to Hip Belay
Long before the invention of belay devices, the hip belay provided security for the second and saved time in the mountains. When used correctly, a bomber stance can replace a traditional anchor, or you can back up a marginal anchor with a solid stance. It’s best in lower-...
Christian Santelices at Climbing Magazine
Ground Runner Belay
Keep Your Partner From Hitting the Ground
Experts only: Your buddy has toproped his gnarly new headpoint 317 times—blindfolded, barefoot, and singing the national anthem. Despite all the rehearsals, now and then his foot still pops on that desperate last move. But the season is winding down, and the air is crisp—...
Adam Scheer at Climbing Magazine
Short-hauling Your Climbing Partner
It's been a long day on the rock. If your partner can just finish this pitch quickly, you can be down on the trail before dark. But he’s exhausted, and a crux overhang has stopped him. “Take!” he yells. You give him tension, with your belay device rigged in guide mode off...
Mark Nelson at Climbing Magazine
Figure 3  <br />by Ben Fullerton
Single-Hitch Belay Escape
Keeping it straightforward is a good credo for rescue and almost anything climbing-related, and this particular skill is a good example of how to streamline the act of escaping a belay. It uses minimal steps, equipment, and hitches or knots, especially when compared to mo...
Eli Helmuth at Climbing Magazine
Boinking
Better Boinking
Boinking is a little trick that all sport climbers should know. When you’re working a very steep route, falls may leave you stranded in space, too far from the wall to regain the rock. Instead of lowering to the ground, you can often “boink” back up to your last quickdraw...
Pat Bagley at Climbing Magazine
Personal anchor  <br />by Jamie Givens
Personal Anchor Tethers for Climbing Safely
Traditionally, climbers have anchored to the belay by tying in directly with the rope. Now, many prefer the convenience of personal anchor tethers specifically designed for this purpose for belays, as well as for cleaning the top anchor on a sport climb or anchoring durin...
Lee Lang at Climbing Magazine
How to Belay From Above
See a discussion of the pros and cons of direct and indirect belay methods.
Climbing Tech Tips
Top Rope Belay Basics
How to tie a figure 8, rig a belay device, use belay commands, perform slide belay, and lower a climber on top rope.
Climbing Tech Tips
How to Belay with an Autoblock Device
Watch an explanation of how to use an autoblocking belay device and understand it's benefits for rescue.
Climbing Tech Tips
Escape a Belay Using a Re-Direct
Use this method to tie off a belay to an injured partner and set up a rescue.
Climbing Tech Tips
How to Escape the Belay
Use this method to tie off a belay to an injured partner and set up a rescue.
Climbing Tech Tips
Basic Techniques for Ice Climbing
What you need to know for safe efficient ice climbing: footwork, tool placement, swing dynamics, anchors and resting.
Climbing Tech Tips