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'Anchors' in the School of Rock


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Bolted toprope anchor setup <br />by Chris Philpot
Bolted Toprope Anchors
Once you start venturing outside the gym to pull on real rock, you or your climbing partner might not be quite ready to tie into the sharp end, so it’s essential to know how to set up a solid anchor for toproping. Many climbs have two bolts (or chains or rings attached to...
Julie Ellison at Climbing Magazine
Pre-thread a top rope
Setting Up an Anchor-Friendly Toprope
You're climbing outdoors with novice friends, and you want to rig a toprope from a fixed-chain anchor. You’re the only one in the group who can safely install and clean a toprope setup, but you loath having to climb each route twice—once to hang the rope, and once to clea...
Russ Facente at Climbing Magazine
Fig 1 Untie your cordelette <br />by Supercorn
Build an Anchor in Poor Rock
How many pieces do you need for a traditional anchor? Most climbers don’t have time to blink before they answer this question. But if you answered “three,” you’re wrong. An anchor takes as many pieces as it needs based on rock quality, positioning, angle, and other factor...
Jason D. Martin at Climbing Magazine
Alpine anchor
Alpine Anchors
In the mountains or on long rock routes, anchor efficiency can be the difference between a comfortable finish and a forced bivouac. Using a cordelette to equalize an anchor is easy and strong, but it takes a lot of extra time to set up, and even longer to break down. Ther...
Ian Nicholson at Climbing Magazine
Personal anchor  <br />by Jamie Givens
Personal Anchor Tethers for Climbing Safely
Traditionally, climbers have anchored to the belay by tying in directly with the rope. Now, many prefer the convenience of personal anchor tethers specifically designed for this purpose for belays, as well as for cleaning the top anchor on a sport climb or anchoring durin...
Lee Lang at Climbing Magazine
How To Build a Trad Anchor
Learn the best way to build a simple, safe, equalized anchor.
Climbing Tech Tips
Set Up a Top Rope Anchor with a Cordelette
Learn how to construct an equalized cordelette anchor for a top rope climb.
Climbing Tech Tips
Set Up a Top Rope Anchor with Slings
Learn how to construct an equalized, double length sling anchor for a top rope climb.
Climbing Tech Tips
Make a Sliding X Top Rope Anchor
Learn how to construct a sliding X anchor and when it is appropriate to use.
Climbing Tech Tips
Using SERENE to Make Safe Anchors
Learn how using the acronym "SERENE" will help to build safe anchors.
Climbing Tech Tips
Basic Techniques for Ice Climbing
What you need to know for safe efficient ice climbing: footwork, tool placement, swing dynamics, anchors and resting.
Climbing Tech Tips
Make a V-Thread Anchor in Ice
How to make a strong V-thread rappel anchor.
Climbing Tech Tips
V-Thread Step 3
How to Build a V-Thread Anchor
Rappelling on ice, when there are no manmade anchors, requires a bit of ingenuity. You can use ice screws or nuts/cams if there’s rock, but then you are forced to leave your gear behind. Not only does this take a toll on your wallet and junk up the wilderness, but after e...
Cory Akin at Backcountry
Photo Credit: Adam Riser
Climbing Anchors to Avoid
Anchors are extremely important. Whether you’re going up or down, at some point your anchor will be the only thing connecting you and your partner to whatever you’re climbing. Pulling a piece of gear in a lead fall usually just leads to a bigger fall. Anchor failures, on ...
Adam Riser at Backcountry
Cleaning Sport Anchors
How to Clean Sport Climbing Anchors
One of the best parts about sport climbing is its utter simplicity: Clip some bolts as you climb, and - well, that’s pretty much it. The most complicated part is cleaning the anchors; in other words, threading your rope through the rings or chains at the top so you can lo...
Julie Ellison at Climbing Magazine