| Type: | Sport, 170 ft (52 m) |
| GPS: | 46.66122, 8.48696 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 611 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Sep 29, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn |
Description
Fun interesting moves in dramatic rock situation.
This is a Via Ferrata route with a steel cable and other fixed hardware for Protection or Aid. The point of this MP Route description is to climb it "free", with hands and feet directly on the rock, not using the cable or other hardware for Aid (but likely still clipping the cable for Protection).
Difficulty is fairly sustained and with thoughtful combinations, so if now experienced with this style of moves + rock, might feel like a grade harder.
. . . If instead climbing with full use of hardware for Aid, difficulty likely feels like class 4 rock-climbing.
. . . Normal name is Klettersteig Krokodil - (since "Klettersteig" is the German word for Via Ferrata).
. . . More info in the print guidebook Klettersteige Schweiz, by Iris Kürschner (www.Rother.de : 2013). But this route is not in the 2005 English translation.
. . . For additional fun Free climbing, consider going higher to the East Arete of Bergseeschijen peak.
. . . . . [ see on this Map ] .
. . . (Except that REI staff deleted the approach + climb track in Oct 2018. Maybe they'll put it back).
directions: Start from the bottom of the steel cable around (N46.6610 E8.4872) - (likely reached by first climbing up and over VF Krokodil 1). Up to top of cable (N46.6612 E8.4870), then down on cable thru notch to NE, and cross a cable bridge (which perhaps could be avoided). Down a little more on cable to a pass (N46.66169 E8.48661). From here can do down SW then S follow markings to return to Bergseehütte (not show on this map). Or could go for more climbing higher.
warning: If using a normal Via Ferrata kit with normal VF procedures, falling on this route would likely result in serious injury (even death), because many of the cable anchors are not well located for Protection. Therefore if you fall, you're likely to hit something bad.
- - > details see Here (or Here)
So if you're not fully sure you can do some sequence, grab the cable or other hardware for aid. Actually taking a fall is a really bad idea.
Location
Start from Bergseehütte (N46.6575 E8.4849) - (which is at the finish of another VF Beginners+Children). Follow paint markings blue+white at first NNE then NE to reach bottom start of the first VF Krokodil 1 at around (N46.6605 E8.4882). Climb up to the top of VF Krokodil 1 (more difficult and longer than this route). Then follow VF steel cable down to a small pass. Walk/scramble across that pass to reach the bottom start of cable for this route, around (N46.6610 E8.4872).
- - > See on this Map
. . . . . (with downloadable GPS track)
. . . (Except that REI staff deleted it in Oct 2018. Maybe they'll put it back).
Protection
There's a steel cable and sometimes other hardware along most of the non-easy sections this route which could be clipped with the carabiners of a normal via ferrata kit while climbing. But the specific locations (and overall frequency and spacing) of the anchor posts attaching the cable to the rock are not well designed to prevent injury in case of a fall.
- - > details see Here (or Here)
Therefore if using a normal Via Ferrata kit with normal VF procedures, falling on this route would likely result in serious injury (even death), because many of the cable anchors are not well located for Protection. If you fall, you're likely to hit something bad, such as a ledge or protruding rock, or cable anchor post, or other fixed hardware.
R protection rating? On much of this route, the positioning and frequency of the posts for attaching the steel cable to the rock is fairly "run out" (if protecting by a normal VF kit with "normal" VF procedure), even by via ferrata standards. Many other VF routes (especially outside Switzerland?) limit the distance of a fall more closely than this route - (though they're still not very well protected compared with many single-pitch Sport-climbing routes on outdoor rock). This particular route is in many parts much less well protected (when using a normal VF kit with "normal" VF procedures) than leading a typical single-pitch Sport-climbing route.
Sport Leading with a rope on this route is also possible: Could clip quick-draws to the steel cable just above each anchor post which attaches the cable to the rock. Keep in mind that the installers' selection of specific locations, and overall frequency and spacing, of the cable-anchor posts were not designed for protection of Sport Leading. So perhaps better if the Leader climbs with maximum + careful use of the fixed hardware and cable as Aid for hands or feet -- to be very sure of not falling -- Then the Follower(s) can then play with more interesting+challenging styles of climbing while on rope belay from above.
There are special equipment + strategies to get better Protection in case of an actual fall.
- - > details + options for better Protection see Here (or Here).



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