Bears in Heat
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a (avg: 3.5 / 2 votes)
Submitted by: peachy spohn
Seasonal Raptor Closure
From the Washington State Park's Page [www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock]:
Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
DescriptionBears in Heat offers a little bit of everything (and it was just cleaned fairly well!) The first pitch follows a zig-zagging crack that forces you to be creative, lie-backing, high-stepping, etc. The pitch takes a lot of smaller gear (mainly cams). The second pitch is BEAUTIFUL and begins with the amazing "bear hug," which eventually gives way to a brilliant just-off-hands-crack (too small at the start and too wide at the top!) From the anchors at the top of the crack keep going by stepping right into the dihedral of Flying Dutchman and finishing at the large grassy ledges. Pitch one is roughly 11b/c and pitch two is roughly 11a. A fantastic route, especially when it sees more traffic. Get on it.
LocationThe route begins the same as for Flying Dutchman (past three pitons). From the third, step left and into the zig-zagging crack system. There is an anchor set up where the route begins after the initial movement left. It is just right of the second tunnel.
ProtectionFull set of stoppers. Cams doubled/tripled from Metolius #1 to Metolius #4. Singles from #5 - #9.
CommentsWolfdog Aug 25, 2011
This climb is full value.
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