Bears in Heat
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a (avg: 3.5 / 2 votes)
Submitted by: peachy spohn
Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting.
From the Washington Park's Page
Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
Description
Bears in Heat offers a little bit of everything (and it was just cleaned fairly well!) The first pitch follows a zig-zagging crack that forces you to be creative, lie-backing, high-stepping, etc. The pitch takes a lot of smaller gear (mainly cams). The second pitch is BEAUTIFUL and begins with the amazing "bear hug," which eventually gives way to a brilliant just-off-hands-crack (too small at the start and too wide at the top!) From the anchors at the top of the crack keep going by stepping right into the dihedral of Flying Dutchman and finishing at the large grassy ledges. Pitch one is roughly 11b/c and pitch two is roughly 11a. A fantastic route, especially when it sees more traffic. Get on it.
Location
The route begins the same as for Flying Dutchman (past three pitons). From the third, step left and into the zig-zagging crack system. There is an anchor set up where the route begins after the initial movement left. It is just right of the second tunnel.
Protection
Full set of stoppers. Cams doubled/tripled from Metolius #1 to Metolius #4. Singles from #5 - #9.
Comments
Wolfdog  Aug 25, 2011
This climb is full value.

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