Submitted by: Br'er Rabbit
Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population
DescriptionP1: Climb directly up between two water grooves passing a #2 Camalot placementand five bolts to a bolted belay (a few 10 moves).
P2: Continue up between the grooves, past five more bolts, and one white tricam placement, then up a steeper section to a belay on a tree ledge (sustained 10).
Rap: Move Right and rappel from double bolts on the top of Jiffy Pop Queen.
Location50' right of Joke the Chicken, at the leftmost end of the main cliff in an overlap.
ProtectionA #2 Camalot and a few draws for P1.
A white tricam and a few draws for P2.
Maybe a smattering of other small gear in case you find something else.
Paralleling...Ryan on P2. Paul and me cowering at the belay.
CommentsBr'er Rabbit Jun 15, 2009
Pitch one is straight forward with a #2 camalot placement at about 25' and four or five more bolts over a total of around 140'.
Pitch two is five bolts with one placement between the first and 2nd that cuts the runout in half...a white tricam in a shallow horizontal.
1st pitch has a few easy 5.10 moves mid pitch, with a hard, high-step if you take the right groove to the belay. Taking the left groove yields a couple moves a letter grade or two easier than the right groove, but is challenging nonetheless and more sustained.
2nd pitch is consistently sustained with much of the climbing at easy 10 or harder. Stemming the grooves tames the technicality a bit, but at the cost of burning calves.
A fall on this route would be LONG and slabby, but not incredibly dangerous as the granite is very smooth. Typical spacing between bolts and the few placements is around 20'.
Belay in a horizontal above on medium to large cams. Move climber's right to anchors on a neighboring route. Two double rope rappels to the ground.
Paul Barnes Nov 10, 2009 Rating: 5.10
Killer face and friction climbing on P1...followed by an exciting exercise in classic Cashiers Valley watergroove stemming on P2.
Probably a little bit better protected than most of the other stuff at BG...but still...DANG! Don't fall.
jeep gaskin Sep 2, 2011
i place a 0 tcu and a #1 rock equalized between bolts 1 and 2. at bolt 3 you'll have to do a couple hard moves beginning with the bolt at your shoes. the crux is at bolt 4 and the fall is safe. use every option in both grooves and the hunk between them. there is a #2/3 camalot placement after the last bolt on pitch 2. the belay is on cams, 1 to 2 inches. the rap line, if you're facing out is just beyond the bush to your left. don't go to the ratty tree and belay. you'll just have to down climb to the rap anchors.
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