5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (avg: 4.7 / 9 votes)
Submitted by: Adam Leedy
DescriptionMore of a mental crux than a technical one. The moves all of the way seemed pretty straight forward. The top to the anchors was tough for me to reach and pull to the ledge so I hand traversed the ledge to the anchors. My taller partner was able to reach above the ledge and pull up sooner. This seemed like the crux move to me
LocationStarts at the base of Rock Wars and does a rising traverse to the anchors of Autumn
ProtectionPro is easy straight forward as long as you are able to trust the flake. The flake is thin and convincing yourself that it isn't going to break off in a fall seems like what made the route 5.9
Come on, you know you want to climb this.
Hot September was sweet
nick leading our first climb at the red
walking the flake
Great lead Nick
X-block is strong enough for a foot or hand, but don't crank on it too much.
CommentsSam Lightner, Jr. Apr 17, 2010
THis route was absolutely pure fun, in a puckered sort of way. Really cool climb.
Alex Charmoz Aug 27, 2013
Best (and most impossible) flake I have ever pulled on.
Dominic Rickicki Mar 22, 2015
Unreal that a flake like this exists at the red, sooo much fun. Definitely a mental crux though, you can feel the flake vibrate in your feet when you drag a cam around behind it. A lot of people on the redriverclimbing page say bring x number of this size cam, but honestly, just don't fall.
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