Submitted by: Frank Ford
Difficulty: II, 5.6
Description: 10 long pitches. It can be done in in as few as 6 with simul-climbing and running pitches together. The leader should be very comfortable leading runout slab at 5.6 before starting up this climb.
A series of jams, liebacks & stems are all found on this route. Size ranges from fingers / hands to chimney.
Rock & Ice #50 (July / August 1992) features a topo and short article on page 112.
DESCENT: walk off to the right of the summit.
LocationFollow the prominent triple cracks up middle of the face that lead directly to the summit.
ProtectionProtection: One rack including a wide variety of up to #4 Friends & chocks for the many parallel cracks. Hexes generally do not work well. Take lots of runners.
CommentsJacobD Oct 7, 2008
This route is closer to 1,000 feet tall and is definately not R rated. It eats up pro. There is only a few sections that are slightly run out.
Brian in SLC Oct 8, 2008
Only climbed the route once, back in the mid 80's, but, I seem to dimly recall that it wasn't that R rated for a climber used to harder run out routes, but, do recall run outs, and, do recall thinkin' a 5.6 leader might be pretty sketched on some of the route. For the 5.6 rating, I'd call it R or PG. For the 5.10 climber used to that type of climbing, perhaps not.
This route already exists in the data base:
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