Friend of the Devil
Submitted by: TomKingsbury
Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
Details:Located between 'pyscic turbulence' and 'four play', four cracks left of 'carols'. Was supposed to be done w/ frank sanders but he graciously let us have at it. Climb pitch 1 of 'psychic' (5.7). (p2)traverse right one crack (5.8) and continue up on thin aid (A2 into A3-), until possible to traverse back to the 'psychic' anchors, or to the 'four play' anchors. Continue up (loose 5.9)to the summit, or rappel.
Standard aid rack,thin pins, tie-offs, small stoppers and heads are suggested.
Patrick near the exit on "friend of the devil"
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