Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon)
Submitted by: Dan Allard
Description
Solid Triassic Diabase bouldering on PA State Gamelands with everything from slopers to crimpers to slabs to cracks on ratings from V0 - V10+. Landings range from good to terrible with most problems surrounded by rocks.
The climbing is entirely in the woods with generally poorly marked trails you may find hundreds of quality, established problems exist, plenty more to be explored.
Friction seems to pop in cooler temperatures making early spring and late fall the ideal seasons for this area.
Be sure to wear bright colors (blaze orange) accordingly during hunting seasons as much of the climbing is on PA State Gamelands.
The main footpath is Top Rock Trail. It starts at the Top Rock lot in the east, goes to Top Rock, and then goes south to the Hangar 18/Mill Road parking.
Teddy Bear, Top Rock, the Glass Wall, Area 15, and Hangar 18 are all along Top Rock Trail.
Hobo Trail is reached by going through Teddy Bear, and further north.
The Caves Trail is a cutoff that avoids the summit. Caves Trail (east) leaves Top Rock trail before Teddy Bear, connects to Gateway, reaches the Caves, passes under the River of Rocks, then Caves Trail (west) returns to Top Rock Trail about halfway between Area 51 and Hangar 18.
Getting There
Top Rock parking
Use Top Rock for most Haycock areas.
Off of RT 563 turn north onto Top Rock Trail Road. About a mile down on the left is a small parking area. Follow the obvious singletrack hiking trail up to the Trail-split Boulder; go left at this junction for the Caves Trail East, and right for other areas.
After this, trails are generally poorly marked. Look for cairns and blazes on trees.
Hangar 18 parking
Use Mill Road parking for Hangar 18.
Off of RT 563, turn north onto Harrisburg School Road. Turn right at Kinzler Road. Pass a stop sign, park in a small lot on the left, and follow a trail to Hangar 18, the Caves Trail West. and other bouldering areas.
Rock Type
Triassic diabase boulders.
Governance
Pennsylvania Game Commission State Game Lands 157 .
Photos
Looking for Boulders
The beautiful finger crack 3-star (V1) at Haycock mtn.
Hanger 18 trail
Chiba ~ v6
Used to be v4 until the start hold broke.
Location: N40 29.476, W075 12.999
Steven on Flaming Moe
Comments
Lars Torkelson Nov 15, 2011
I recently moved to Philadelphia and went to Haycock for the first time on Sunday. I was amazed at the quality of the rock, the sheer number of problems and the possibilities for endless bouldering circuits. I have but one thing to ask: would any local climbers please, please shed some light on this wonderful area? Even the simplest of topos, photos, descriptions or links to other extant guides would be tremendously appreciated.
Justin Johnsen Nov 16, 2011
Hey Lars, I agree Haycock is a quality climbing spot. I'm slowly collecting and putting together content for Mountain Project - hopefully others will contribute content for this too.
Rob Holzman's PA climbing guidebook is one of my sources for this (included in the guidebooks section if you navigate to Pennsylvania here on MP). There's one section free online here: www.paclimbing.com/haycock_page.htm .
Rockclimbing.com has some coverage of Haycock too.
Justin Compton Dec 4, 2011
Char Fetterolf is putting an updated guidebook together now. No word yet on when it'll be out. You might be able to locate an old copy of it if your lucky or meet some locals.
Justin Johnsen Jan 12, 2012
Justin C., thanks for the tip, I picked up an '02 Fetterolf!
Justin Johnsen Jan 24, 2012
I also spoke with someone at Doylestown Rock Gym [edit: Thanks for posting the full details, Dana!], and the new 2012 Char Fetterolf guide is planned for release in a few weeks.
Doylestown Rock Gym Jan 24, 2012
Haycock Bouldering Guide is due out next week. It is a 75-page color guide book, include GPS coordinates, easy to use rating scale and much more!
Pre-Order sale going on now until Jan 29, 2012. Pick it up for only $25 (MSRP $30).
Reserve Your Copy Today!
Tim Quick Feb 1, 2012
Thanks for posting about the new guidebook. I actually happened to stumble upon these posts when trying to search for directions to Hobo and I am SO happy to learn about the new guidebook. I can't even begin to count the number of times that I got lost on Top Rock side of the mountain when trying to find the trail/problems! Just pre-ordered the book and looking forward to spending more time working problems instead of trekking through the woods!
Brian M 2 days ago
had an great day climbing here last weekend, but spent an hour bushwacking back to our car once we got off trail (added adventure, right?) finally got around to buying the guidebook from doylestown rock gym, and the quality is awesome, one of the best bouldering guidebooks i own. the gps will also keep me from getting lost next time! highly recommended, and basically required if you are new to the area
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