Submitted by: Mike Baetz
DescriptionThis cliff is home to about 25-30 climbs; some high quality trad climbs, mostly on the left side, and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear) of varying quality on the right. The cliff faces south and can be quite windy since it sits on the ridge upon which the long trail runs. Several climbs can be top roped and a 60m rope is sufficient for all the climbs.
I've included only the best climbs on the left side for now. There is a decent little website that you can check out for information on the other climbs, which I'm pretty sure is deersleapvt.com.
Getting ThereDear Leap is located in Killington on Rte. 4 near Pico Ski resort. The cliff sits above The Inn on the Long Trail, and parking is across the road.
The approach takes about 15 minutes, and requires some scrambling. The quickest route is not easy to find, but ascends a short slab (below and to the left are a couple shorter climbs that need some more traffic to clean up), then finds a way through some boulders above.
Nick Goldsmith leading Celibacy 5.9+
For a complete guide to the area see www.deersleapvt.com
CommentsFrank T Apr 24, 2009
I found this doing a google search of this area. The page is a bit hard to use but offers good info. deersleapvt.com/
Matt Wilson Jun 1, 2011
The website for the area seems to have disappeared.
Matt Wilson Jan 17, 2012
As Nick has mentioned on the main page for Vermont, the new website for this area can be found at www.deerleapclimbing.com
Daniel Kuzio Jul 19, 2013
Does anyone know if any of the routes here can be accessed from above and top roped? Thanks!
Matt Wilson Apr 10, 2014
Daniel - Everything on the main face left side can be toproped - there are several sets of bolted anchors, where each anchor can be used for multiple climbs. The shortest path to get to the anchors is to take the direct trail up to the main cliff, and continue around the left side. Many of the lower climbs can also be toproped although if I recall there is often rope rubbing on rock for those (although nothing too serious).
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