Submitted by: Mike Baetz
For access issues: please review cragvt.org
DescriptionThis cliff is home to about 25-30 climbs; some high quality trad climbs, mostly on the left side, and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear) of varying quality on the right. The cliff faces south and can be quite windy since it sits on the ridge upon which the long trail runs. Several climbs can be top roped and a 60m rope is sufficient for all the climbs.
I've included only the best climbs on the left side for now.
Getting ThereDear Leap is located in Killington on Rte. 4 near Pico Ski resort. The cliff sits above The Inn on the Long Trail, and parking is across the road.
The approach takes about 15 minutes, and requires some scrambling. The quickest route is not easy to find, but ascends a short slab (below and to the left are a couple shorter climbs that need some more traffic to clean up), then finds a way through some boulders above.
Nick Goldsmith leading Celibacy 5.9+
For a complete guide to the area see www.deersleapvt.com
From the parking area across the road .... Inn of The Long Trail, established hiking trail to cliff starts in the right side of Inn's parking area
The cliff, well known routes are on the "white ish " left side bulge.
CommentsMatt Wilson Jan 17, 2012
As Nick has mentioned on the main page for Vermont, the new website for this area can be found at deerleapclimbing.com
Daniel Kuzio Jul 19, 2013
Does anyone know if any of the routes here can be accessed from above and top roped? Thanks!
Matt Wilson Apr 10, 2014
Daniel - Everything on the main face left side can be toproped - there are several sets of bolted anchors, where each anchor can be used for multiple climbs. The shortest path to get to the anchors is to take the direct trail up to the main cliff, and continue around the left side. Many of the lower climbs can also be toproped although if I recall there is often rope rubbing on rock for those (although nothing too serious).
John Richardson May 11, 2014
Does anyone have a pdf copy (or perhaps you could scan a print out that you currently have) of the guidebook?
I'd like to post this on my site and link it to this page so that there is a copy available.
If you do I'd be stoked if you sent it to me at...
Ian Dibbs Sep 11, 2014
The climbers trail to cliff is very rough, slippery, dangerous and can't be recommended. The established hiking trail is longer, slower, but a safe, less vegetation destructive, tranquil hike up. Takes a gentle 1/2 hour hike.
Once at the "top" of the hiking trail on the big rocky bulge, the climbs don't start there but down a level (looking down at 10:00) where there are some trees. Once at the correct spot (anchors unseen just over the edge of the cliff)... a trail to the climbs base is found on the right side (when looking over the cliff) which looks rough but actually isn't too bad.
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