Submitted by: Ladd Raine
DescriptionThis collection of seaside boulders is only enjoyable during low tide. Many enjoyable problems exist here, but watch out for the wet, slippery and sometimes treacherous landings. Most of the topouts are low (10ft-ish) and solid.
If you have never been to Nubble and live anywhere near there, if can be an enjoyable escape from Pawtuckaway bugs and the Pawtuckaway approach.
Getting ThereDrive along Route 1 north from NH, enter Maine, pass Long Sands beach and you will see the lighthouse on the oceanside. Take a smal side street east and park in the lighthouse parking area. This is apopular tourist spot.
The bouldering exists below the level of the parking lot; just walk towards the sea.
Tyler climbing at Nubble Lighthouse. The scenery might be better than the rock.
This is the face along the right side of the parking lot closest to the lighthouse. Im not sure which boulder it is but there are problems on it. Anyone know what they are???
Nubble Light - York Beach, Maine
This is that same face but this photo is just to the right of the previous photo. A much easier climb, still not sure what it is.
Unknown boulder problem at Nubble. Anyone know what it is?
Commentsjohn strand Feb 1, 2010
You may want to contact Peter Beal about this area. I'm pretty sure he did a lot of stuff in the area.
andyscott Feb 2, 2010
I was introduced to this area by Mike Veazy who has been really involved in the area. We have discussed many of the routes that are on here. Mike has almost every single boulder problem at the nubble posted on rockclimbing.com.
Peter Beal Feb 3, 2010
As nice as it would have been to say I did all the problems BITD, I have never climbed at Nubble
burlap submariner Feb 20, 2010
I met a dude there who was in his sixties and he said they had a circuit there to train for routes on cannon in the 70's.
Patrick Feeney Mar 15, 2011
does anyone know of any bouldering in Bangor,I am going up there next month for a tattoo show,anyone that can help.i am gonna check out this spot though.
AWinters Aug 21, 2011
Don't expect much in the way of climbing when you come here. Pretty disappointing. Though being on the ocean is nice...
Grady Jackson Nov 2, 2011
caesar.salad Jun 9, 2013
The rock here is SUPER SHARP. landings are sketchy as hell. I highly recommend a spotter. It's not the best bouldering in the world, but halfway decent if you don't want to drive far. Some of the routes are pretty interesting though. It is worth a look if you live in the area. I will definitely be going back.
ACCESS NOTE: I was just at the parking lot boulders. The hueco and wave boulders are farther up the coast past where some jackass has spray painted "PRIVATE" on the rocks. I would have gone up there to check them out but a wedding was going on and I didn't want to be a dick by getting in the background of all their photos.
Christopher Gagne Jun 28, 2013
"ACCESS NOTE: I was just at the parking lot boulders. The hueco and wave boulders are farther up the coast past where some jackass has spray painted "PRIVATE" on the rocks. I would have gone up there to check them out but a wedding was going on and I didn't want to be a dick by getting in the background of all their photos."
caesar.salad, The owner of the cottages that run along the North Shore Area owns up to the high water mark. If you travel between the high tide mark and the water you should be okay, they probably will yell at you but as far as I know they don't have any legal right to. Most of the boulders are in the surf zone anyways.
Tyler Quesnel Apr 9, 2015
A note on accessing 'private land': A quick Google search and it seems that Maine gives property rights from the mean low tide in to the property owner. This is in contradiction to most other states where the land between high and low tide is protected by the state.
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