Submitted by: Ladd Raine
Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit
DescriptionThe Northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail is Mt. Katahdin at 5260ft.
There are many fifth-class multi-pitch climbs that ascend this peak and the various other peaks around it.
There are even more ice/mixed winter time routes up this mountain.
Getting ThereTo get to the mountain follow the Appalachain Trail!
Katahdin is just north of Millinocket, ME, in Baxter State Park. There are detailed directions and insructions for winter climbing on the state park web site: www.baxterstateparkauthority.com/ The park is awesome in the winter and offers full bore, hard alpine climbing as well as shorter, more friendly ice climbs. Expect to spend two days coming in and out as you are required to stay at the Roaring Brook Campground on your first and last night in the park.
A view of the North Basin from the Chimney Pond Trial
Looking back down to Chimney pond and out the valley from near the base of the Chimney Route
Looking out at the South Basin from near the top of the Chimney Route
The famous Knife Edge enshrouded in clouds. This is a non-technical but very fun ridge walk. There are a couple of exposed spots that always excite the masses!
Katahdin viewed from Chimney Pond on a cold winter morning.
JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.
The Flatiron (5.7) I haven't climbed it so I can't say much about it but it looks great.
The Armadillo (5.7)
The Armadillo, the Flatiron, the approach and the moon.
The Tabor wall of Katahdin's north basin.
CommentsBrianWinslow Apr 28, 2007
In the summer the park rangers will hand out a "Technical Rock Climbing At Katahdin" paper which has general information (basic route descriptions with grades that are not all that helpful.) There is also an informal guide book with photographs and drawn lines of the routes along with descriptions from many of the first ascentionist. Be prepared to show your gear and lay out your intentions to the ranger on duty, who may or may not know something about climbing and may or may not be polite and respectful.
RhodeIslandJeff Feb 17, 2013
On a clear day with little wind the south basin makes for some excellent yodeling.
I would love to see more information on the North Basin.
burlap submariner Feb 18, 2013
ideally that wont happen anytime soon. check the log at chimney pond. Keep it to yourself.
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