Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Submitted by: sam davidson
Description
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (HCR) offers some of the finest sandstone in Arkansas with nearly 420 routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.14. The majority of the routes are fully bolted sport climbs, but there are also many fine trad routes and a plethora of good boulder problems. The cracks at the Ranch are some of the best in Arkansas and will challenge even the saltiest of crack masters.
Surreal sandstone climbing in a spectacular setting with all the amenities of a four-star dude ranch make this one of the most unique and enjoyable crags you will ever visit.
Getting There and Guidebook Information
HCR is located approximately 7.0 miles west of Jasper and 6.5 miles east of Ponca on the south side of State Highway 74. Jasper is approximately 25 miles south of Harrison and 65 miles north of Russellville on Scenic State Highway 7.
A NEW full color guidebook for the area is available for pre-order and immediate eBook download at www.bostonmountainpress.com.
The 200 page guidebook is full color throughout and provides complete information on all of the over 420 sport and crack climbs. Also featured is a comprehensive and updated look at nearly 250 boulder problems on the ranch. All route and problem information is color coded by rating.
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Photos
On the Titanic Boulder. Classic 5.8 Arete.
Crimp Scampi 5.10d/11a, North 40
Brian on Crimp Scampi
Watching the sun come down at the Ranch.
Chili the ranch dog.
The best dog a climber could ask for.
The view of the ranch from the anchors of Sybarite
Horses and goats.
November sunrise at Horseshoe
The ranch
Panoramic from the store porch.
A view of the cliffs on the east side and some goats.
Chili dog!!
good morning!
Beautiful leaves in early November 2010
AB soaking up the sun and the views at HCR
View towards the Goat cave, from the campground.
enough said.
Man Servant 5.9+
First Normal Form 5.9+
Crimp Scampi 5.10d
The idyllic Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.
Goats.
Sunrise over the east side.
Another one of Chili, well, chillin on the porch.
Jon on the spectacular Crack of Arkansas (5.10a)
HCR Springtime climbing. Pic by Lorraine Walsh
Entrance sign to some fun climbing.
Much needed pre-send siesta. The Natty is for the post-send.
Comments
boulderski Mar 22, 2010
Sign Posted: Dogs no longer allowed as of Jan 1 2010
Trad Nanny Mar 30, 2010
This is one of the best places I have ever been to, to bring new climbers. TONS of easy and moderate climbs with forgiving rests and holds. Not too tall either. In addition there are classic 5.8's next to classic 5.12's so the experienced climber can belay the newbie, take a few steps and work a project.
Tip: Bring you own TP for the pit toilets and DON'T PET THE BIG DOGS! They have a job to do.
ferrells Jan 28, 2011
Could someone tell me where the 'cracks that will test even the saltiest' are? Just Starboard List? Are there any (other) cracks here that are really good, above 5.10?
Nate Moore Jan 30, 2011
ferrells, Horseshoe doesn't really have any hard cracks. Classique and I Fought Piranhas are probably two of the hardest i can think of. If you want harder crack you will have to check out some other crags.
Peter Dodge Nov 27, 2011
What is the climbing like in February? Temps?
ssimonson09 Dec 14, 2011
Peter,
February Temps can be decent depending on how things shake out and how late in February you go. It'll probably be getting up to the mid to upper 40's maybe almost the 50's in the day and at night it'll drop down to below freezing. Again, this really depends on the year though, I think the ice storm that ripped through there a few years ago was in late January early February, so it really just depends.
Generally speaking though HCR is a great winter destination as you can just chase the sun around the canyon for the best temps.
SteveBSU Jan 11, 2012
Does anyone know if you can climb for free in this area or do you always have to pay?
michaeltarne Feb 17, 2012
You always have to pay, assuming you want the Ranch to stay open to climbing. It's $5 a day for the best sport climbing within a ten hour drive. You can afford it.
Jason Young Apr 8, 2012
This area is well worth the $5 fee. There are hundreds of routes on superb stone. The bolt jobs are excellent with bomber hardware. It looks like glue-ins might be the new standard for the area. The bouldering looks amazing, and there's tons of it too. The setting is pretty amazing too. It is a true ranch with horses, cattle, goats, pigs, dogs, and cowboys.
I was just there last week. The weather was unseasonably warm, but quite nice. We did see about a dozen ticks during the two days we climbed there though.
P.S. Chili is a sweet dog, and the people who run the place were very friendly!
Don't forget to check out the Buffalo River while your there. The cliffs we saw on the stretch between Steel Creek and Kyle's Landing were AMAZING (they looked like a mini Verdon). The fishing was good too. There are some lunker bass in there as well as some trout and a ton of crappie. Oh yeah, I saw a couple of good spots for some DWS also (the water was quite warm for a river)!
Jared Peterson Apr 27, 2012
Hey anyone want to climbing at Horsehoe this sunday?
David Becker Jun 5, 2012
looking for a bouldering partner for this coming weekend for a little horseshoe action (June 9-10) and maybe Monday as well. Any takers? email me at david@beckersite.com
Lee Collette Jul 11, 2012
Does anyone know what the status of camping at the Ranch and/or close by is? Any inoformation you have regarding fees would be very helpful.
Garrett Klingler Jul 17, 2012
Lee,
We were there a few weeks ago. You can camp at HCR for $5 a night (I think) and I believe they now have showers/toilets.
We stayed at Dogwood Springs a few times while climbing at HCR, its in Jasper. I like it because they have electricity at the campsites and a pool, which is great if you want to climb in the summer. Pretty sure its more like $20 a night.
FREDDY GOSSMAN Nov 3, 2012
Is it good enough climbing weather in march april to justify driving out from Wyoming??
SteveBSU Dec 11, 2012
If weather is sunny here, would it be climbable next week? and if its off season, is there still a price? also is it $5 dollars to climb and camp or just climb?
Brett Portner-Kuhlow Dec 18, 2012
Hey SteveBSU,
It is $5 to climb and $5 to camp. So, $10 a day to climb and camp. Not sure about the weather.
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