King's Bluff
Submitted by: Ben Bruestle
Description
Nashville's closest climbing, King's Bluff is owned and managed by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. Southern aspect guarantees sunny cragging year-round that is usually not crowded. Decent shade is provided by overgrowth in the summer. Direct sunshine in the winter. Limestone lines 5.4 to 5.13a with small edges, flexing flakes and sweet pockets. Mostly sport with a few trad and mixed routes. Approximately 150 climbs 35-70 feet tall. The top of the the cliff is off limits, so the only way to set up topropes is by first leading the route. No camping in the area. Consider making a donation to the SCC at the box located along the approach trail. There are plenty of places to buy adult beverages in Screaming Eagle country. Developed by Walter Wilkinson and Terry Parker in the early 1990's. Classics include Baby Kangaroo 5.8+, First Plum 5.10b, LAG 5.9 and Ritz Bitz 5.10c.
Getting There
Located at the Max Court cul-de-sac in Clarksville. Approach takes less than 5 minutes to hike from the parking lot to the base of the cliff perched above the Cumberland River. From I-24 take exit 11 towards Clarksville. Follow Hwy 76 just over six miles west, crossing Hwy 41A on the way. Turn left after the Amoco station onto Max Court, go thru the gate and park at the end of the road. The descent trail is just left of the bulletin board.
Photos
Route Placard
Me climbing at King's Bluff in Clarksville, TN. Photo by my wife Liz.
Leading a 5.8... I think its called "Engineering a Goat Rope"
Comments
rcongo Mar 10, 2013
Looking for a partner on saturday and sunday March 16th and 17th. Will have gear with me. Travelling on business to nashville and wasnt to check out the clsoe local crag. Send me a PM if interested.
Bierson Apr 16, 2013
I'm a Nashville local looking for some weekday climbing partners. For the next month or so I'll have some free time during the week. I've got my own gear and I'm game to get on pretty much anything.
dnoB ekiM Nov 25, 2009
This is a great little sport crag. Many of the older Walt Wilkinson bolts with welded shuts as hangars are severely rusted and need replacement soon....they are ticking time bombs. It seems this would have been a better investment of the SCC's time and money than the "disneyesque" nameplates that were installed. A couple of the bolts/shuts on Three Wishes and Baby I'm... are ridiculously rusted.
Adam Beck Jan 21, 2010
There are some bolts in need of replacement. Many of the bolts are good; especially on the more popular moderate routes. The name tags were made by a climber at Fort Campbell. We haven't heard much from him since 2007. Anyway he made and donated the placards to the SCC. They have been a great addition. You don't even need a guidebook!
This crag is extremely kept and beginner-friendly; especially when compared to some of the areas along the plateau.
But don't do any of the few trad lines you find here. The limestone is terrible for gear. It gets polished really fast because so many people climb it.
Brad "Stonyman" Killough Jan 22, 2010
Thanks for the info Adam
dnoB ekiM Feb 7, 2010
Thanks for the info. I am not bashing this crag. It is a wonderful place to climb. There are more than a few bad bolts here though...even on the moderates (see Engineering a Goat Rope). Just about every bolt with a welded-shut hanger is extremely corroded. I'm not complaining (heck I would work to replace them if I were local)...just warning future visitors.
All that said..this is a fun place to put in some laps!
TKHouse Apr 21, 2010
This message is in response to an incident at the Bluff last weekend in which a climber decked from about 25 feet up, rolled down the river bank, and had to be carried and taken out by boat.
King's Bluff has the highest concentration of low-grade sport in Tennessee. This provides an outstanding opportunity for new leaders to learn the basic skills of leading sport climbs. Because of this, King's Bluff attracts a lot of new climbers who may or may not have the necessary gear or understanding of cleaning sport routes.
I encourage any new climbers coming to climb at the Bluff to seek out proper instruction and/or ask any of the friendly climbers at the Bluff. Sport climbing can be done in a relatively safe manner, where most of the risk of injury can be mitigated by accepted practices and safety standards.
Accidents like the one last weekend put at risk the outstanding opportunity that the SCC and several Clarksville locals have made at King's Bluff. If someone suggests you are doing something unsafe, humble yourself and at least listen to their point of view. People aren't trying to put you down or act arrogant, but by doing something unsafe you are endangering the climbing for the other climbers who regularly visit King's Bluff. The climber injured last weekend repeatedly denied help from climbers in my group several times before he decked.
If you are unsure about something you have previously had explained to you, or simply in need of assistance, ask other climbers. Everyone I have met at King's Bluff has always been friendly and willing to help.
Safe climbing!
Mike Daschle Oct 30, 2010
Route finding here is VERY easy due to the tags on the bottom of the routes. These were placed to prevent people from etching info into the rock, I suppose. If you want the guide book for the area, you'll have to get Hank Smith & Scott Griggs' book or check out www.seclimbers.org.
Emmanuel Eman Lacoste Jun 6, 2011
new guidebook for climbers living or visiting Clarksville. New Crag listed and recommended areas near King's Bluff.
Little Crimpers, A climber's Guide to Clarksville
blake green Oct 2, 2011
I want to echo the comments of TK above, there are many, many beginners here that I have frequently seen doing things that are reckless if not completely dangerous. Many times I have simply left parts of the cliff for fear of getting involved with whatever accident ensues. I strongly encourage beginners coming to the bluff to enjoy the easier routes, but please, please go through the proper channels to learn important safety technique before climbing outside.
Similarly, if you see someone doing something that is completely reckless or simply uninformed, kindly ask them if they would mind some information that might keep them safer. Most logical people won't say no to that if you don't pose it in a condescending manner.
On another note, it's pretty common for the easier areas of the cliff to get super crowded on the weekends. I personally have been parts of very large groups many times. If you're bringing a group to the cliff just be considerate of others: try to break up into smaller groups if possible and just keep the noise down, people do live above the cliff in many places and even where they don't, it's doubtful people came outside to climb to listen to kids screaming or debates about which kind of pizza you like best. Consideration of others is especially important in areas with high concentrations of easier or moderate climbs. Safety is definitely compromised when climber and belayer cannot hear each other, especially if it's, say, someone's first time cleaning a route.
We all want to have a great time at the Bluff, if you're a beginner or new to the area just be sure about everything you're doing, and if you're not, don't be afraid to ask!
BG
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