North Face & Northwest Corner
Submitted by: Mark M.
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Peregrine Closures
July 12, 2013: Devils Tower, Wyoming –
Superintendent Reed Robinson reopens 45 climbing routes on the North side of Devils Tower. Park staff have recently determined that nesting Prairie Falcons have moved on to other locations and are no longer nesting on the Tower.
The climbing routes were temporarily closed after Prairie Falcons were observed nesting. Prairie Falcons are protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act under U.S. Code 703-712 and Pursuant to Title 36, Code of Federal Regulations, 1.5(f) and 2.2(a2), and in accordance with the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan. The temporary closure was put in place not only to protect the Falcons but also to protect climbers from the aggressive birds defending their nests . The Falcons often dive and attack climbers causing injuries. The presence of climbers near or above falcon nests is distressing to parent birds; too much disturbance from climbing activities can cause Falcons to abandon their eggs or chicks.
Climbing access information is available at the climbing office or the park visitor center.
To learn more about activities at Devils Tower National Monument call 307-467-5283, visit us online at www.nps.gov/deto or on Facebook at Devils-Tower-National-Monument-Official-NPS-Site. Devils Tower National Monument is located, 33 miles northeast of Moorcroft, WY, 27 miles northwest of Sundance, WY via U.S. 14, 9 Miles south of Hulett via WY 24, and 52 miles southwest of Belle Fourche, S.D. via S.D. Highway 34/WY24.
DescriptionThe North Face of the tower is the place to be to find shade on hot summer days and is the home to some classic routes with the gem being McCarthy North Face. Most routes in this area are 2 pitches of good climbing with rap bolts, although there are a few that continue to the summit which makes for one of the longest ways to get up the tower.
The North Face / NW Shoulder approach described below will put you near the start of McCarthy's, from this point (with a little effort) you can reach routes all the way to Casper College to the east and One Way Sunset to the west. In short, head up here and you are position for a day of stellar climbing!
Getting ThereTo reach the North Face form the parking lot head left on the paved trail past the west face. At it's farthest north point the trail will make a sharp right turn, just after this you will reach a bench on the opposite side of the trail. Look for a trail here that heads south east through the forest and follow it up to the rock. If you get lost in the woods look up and head for the tall rock pillar in front of you. Watch for Poison Ivy.
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