North Face & Northwest Corner
Submitted by: Mark M.
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures
Seasonal Raptor Closure revision April 9, 2015: A previous closure of climbing routes on the West Face and Southwest shoulder is amended to close the Northeast Face of the Tower to climbing. Routes on the West Face are now open for climbing. A pair of peregrine falcons was observed in courtship and nesting behaviors on the Northeast face. The amended climbing closure includes 45 routes between Belle Fourche Buttress and Psychic Turbulence, and the corresponding edges of the summit.
Devils Tower National Monument temporarily closes climbing routes on the west face and the northwest shoulder of Devils Tower to protect nesting falcons every year. Such temporary closures are an annual occurrence at Devils Tower established under the 1995 Climbing Management Plan, with authority from the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. Climbers are asked to report any defensive falcon behavior to a park ranger or call 307-467-5283. Please check at the climbing office for updated closure info and a list of all climbing routes which may be closed.
Voluntary Closure Every June: Climbers are asked to respect the voluntary closure for the month of June to respect Devil's Tower's importance as a cultural resource.
To learn more about Devils Tower National Monument, contact 307-467-5283, visit us online at www.nps.gov/deto
DescriptionThe North Face of the tower is the place to be to find shade on hot summer days and is the home to some classic routes with the gem being McCarthy North Face. Most routes in this area are 2 pitches of good climbing with rap bolts, although there are a few that continue to the summit which makes for one of the longest ways to get up the tower.
The North Face / NW Shoulder approach described below will put you near the start of McCarthy's, from this point (with a little effort) you can reach routes all the way to Casper College to the east and One Way Sunset to the west. In short, head up here and you are position for a day of stellar climbing!
Getting ThereTo reach the North Face form the parking lot head left on the paved trail past the west face. At it's farthest north point the trail will make a sharp right turn, just after this you will reach a bench on the opposite side of the trail. Look for a trail here that heads south east through the forest and follow it up to the rock. If you get lost in the woods look up and head for the tall rock pillar in front of you. Watch for Poison Ivy.
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