I am planning to head there Feb 16 or 17-18. I heard you have to just show up and cannot reserve in advance, and also heard the place is small. What are the chances of getting a room, and if it is full when I show up, are there other places to stay in the area that I can walk to or otherwise easily get to? Will have an annoyingly heavy backpack with me.
Also, how easy is it to meet climbers that wouldn't mind me tagging along there? If I cannot find any partners in advance, I am hoping I can just show up and find others to climb with. Or is it better to try to find last minute partners in Chiang Mai instead (yes, I do plan to post/check at the indoor gym's partner board in advance, as well as on the Chiang Mai climbers FB group... so this is in case I have to wing it last minute :))
It is easy to meet partners at jira's. Everyone who stays there climbs and most are happy to let you join.
Jiras have a facbook page and respond to messages there so you can jusk ask them of it is possible to book in advance. It is also possible to go to crazy horse with a public bus from wararot market in chiamg mai (cheap) or with the daily climbing bus from the climbing gym (more expensive, but a great way to meet other climbers).
I stayed a Jira in January. It's amazing! The people there are wonderful,it's full of climbers, cheap, and the food portions are huge.
Finding a partner should be easy enough. I went alone and had plenty of partners. Honestly I'd say half the people were traveling alone.
As for "securing a spot" add them on facebook. You can message them through there. If the "dorms" are full they have extra tents they'll sort you out with. If you want a bungalow make sure you try and ask ahead of time.
If you want to save $ too there's a local bus that runs to Jira for $1... Otherwise you can go out with the CMRCA which will cost around $15 but is very convenient.