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Pigeon Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Pigeon Spire

	Cooper-Kor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Draco T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Southeast Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
	Toilet Seat 5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c V-easy 3 WI8 M16+ A0 Steep Snow
	West Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Elevation:	10,354 ft	3,156 m
GPS:	50.7189, -116.785 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	100,390 total · 430/month
Shared By:	Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL Details

BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.

Description

The Pigeon Spire sits to the west of Snowpatch Spire dividing the Bugaboo and Vowell Glaciers. The classic West Ridge is by far the most popular route on the spire and the main descent for all other routes. The East face is the largest and most impressive side of the spire and easily viewable from the Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier.

Getting There

There are two approaches for the Pigeon Spire depending on your destination. For the North Face and the West Ridge take the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col to the Upper Vowell Glacier. For the South and East Faces take the Bugaboo Glacier West passing the South Face of Snowpatch along the way. Both approaches require glacier travel and can take one to two hours depending on the route your trying to get to.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pigeon Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 386 ● West Ridge Trad, Alpine
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R 6 ● Cooper-Kor Trad, Alpine 18 pitches
5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c V-easy 3 WI8 M16+ A0 Steep Snow 88 ● Toilet Seat Aid, Boulder, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine